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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the touring forum, I asked for some jetting tips for backing out of a rich condition. Someone mentioned they moved their e-clips on the needles up one notch. Anybody had experience with this? Any adjustments I'll have to make after doing this? I'm sharp with the tools but know just enough about the carbs to be dangerous. If anyone can walk me through the process, I'd appreciate it! By the way, snowin' like hell here! Woo-Hoo!
 

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I'd recommend dropping the needles only as a last resort...and if you do so check wash and jetting at all mid throttle ranges.

How about checking oil ratio? My dad has the same sled and it's 100% box stock and runs fine all the time. Rich, but fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Same here...rich but fine. Idles great. Probably shouldn't dink with it. 4-6 plugs a year is cheap.
 

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If you're going through plugs its probably more about the pump, you may want to turn it down.
 

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I'd start by changing the main jets. I'm a bit of a broken record when it comes to advising people do a proper baseline jetting set up because that is the only way you can know where you're at. Fouling plugs are from too much fuel. It is all but impossible to have your oil pump so far out that it causes plug fouling. These machines use fixed jetting in the carbs, but the fuel requirements of the engine change with atmospheric conditions which affect air density, and oxygen content. Stock jetting is safe for very cold days, but is way to rich for warm days. A properly balanced carb set up will allow to change the main jets for a proper functioning engine in accordance to the conditons of the day.
 

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run it at 5000,5500 6000 6500 steadily,without changing throttle position for a mile if you can ,pull the plugs each time and check for color,if you are black or more black than red/brn you probably have room to needle down,if you do drop the needle do the same test after to see your change in color
 

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Dropping the needle - actually did it today in a 600 triple.....Start by unscrewing the carb mix chamber cap - should be hand tight carefully pull straight up removing the cap, spring, and slide. Then compress the spreing and let the washer on the top of the slide fall back towards the spring, and unhook the throttle cable being carefull not to let the spring let go - you will loose the washer. next you will find a phillips head screw on the top of the slide - remove it and the inssert in the slide should fall out easily. If you look at the bottom of the inside of the slide you will see the end of the needle. Push upwards on the needleand remove it being careful not to loose either fo the 2 plastic shimms (washers) on either side of the clip. Using a pare of needle nose pliars remove the clip (probably for the middle position (stock))and move it one position up (towards the short end of the needle) then be sure to replace the shimms and re-incert the needle in the slide, replace the metal incert in the slide and replace phillips head screw, re-hook the throttle cable and let the metal washer spring back into place, and re-incert the slide in the carb being sure to line up the pin in the carb with the slot in the slide and making sure that the needle slides freely back ino the needle jet. Then replace the cap and screw back on hand tight - When done be sure to run the sled up to the throttle range you are looking to tune and then immediatly shut the engine off - pull the plugs and inspect them.

I would suggest that if this doesn't fix the problem replace all needle clips to their origional configs. (center) and talk to your local dealer.

I saw that no one explained how to do this - thought I would throw this info. in - sorry so late I just became a member.
 
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