Arctic Cat Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As yall should know, my 95 tcat is being turned into a strict race sled. So I obviously dont need lights or any wires associated with them. Just wondering what wires and stuff I should be taking out. I am currently studying my manual's wiring diagram also.. thanx

oh and instead of unpluggin the TSS at the bars, can i disconnect from the carbs and leave the wires out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
whats the ac regulator do? can i ditch it or no?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
now that i think about it, instead of chopping my wireing harness, can i just wire up my tether,key, and tach, and call it a day, i mean what do i really need besides stator,cdi, coils, tether/key, a/c regulator?, and tach.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
Are you running the 95 CDI? You can't just unplug the carb switches on closed ignition systems. Also, you'll need the lighting coil, including the regulator, if you want to keep the tach working.

I imagine you still want one switch to kill the engine? Behind the console it's possible to trace all switch wiring down to 2 wires that eventually go to the 4 prong connector down near the stator. What I've done is attach my key switch to these 2 wires only to eliminate the kill and tether switches. On a closed ignition this makes it the most reliable and strongest spark.

Maybe unplugging the headlight and tail light at the harnesses is the best way to keep your tach working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yes i am running the 95 cdi, i want the 93, but its going to be cheaper to throw in a timing key. what should i do with the TSS then? i want to do it right at the carbs if i can because i really dont want ANY wires on the sled that i dont NEED. like the oil sensor and temp sensor and all the idiot lights (due to temp gauge and premix, and im not running a speedo) and the thumb/hand warmers and wires are getting cut out. I just need to know exactly what i NEED to keep on the sled to make sled run normal, and have the tach work (without lights) thats litterally all i need.


common guys, you cant tell me im the only person thats setting up a drag sled on this forum.. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Does a mountain sled count?

I'll see if I can draw you up the wiring harness I have on my T-Cat engine. The only kill switches I have are a switch on my bars and a tether. I don't have the headlight or anything going to the hood cause I take the hood completely off a lot in the mountains so that if she rolls down the mountain the hood would still be fine. The only things hooked up lighting coil wise are:
that 4 wire coupler that comes out of the engine with the black, yellow, and brown wires that goes in to the other 4 wire coupler and from there where the yellow wire splits into two, one yellow wire goes to the voltage regulator as well as one brown wire, then the other yellow wire goes to my power take off like my led tail and my digatron and the tach if I so choose to plug the hood wiring harness in. I do also have hand warmers and thumb warmers cause I hate being cold but those hand and thumb warmers are all after market and run with only one power source.

Maybe I'll tear into my CDI wiring harness but basically I don't have the carb switches or any other non sense besides my bar kill switch and my tether and they are both still a closed loop spark. I'm guessing you can tear into yours and loop the wires to the carb switches and loop the wire to the tss (throttle stop switch?) in the harness and then keep the wires that go into your kill switches on your factory bar switch and thether. You can also probably loop your key too. After all is said and done get wiring harness covering or shrink rap and some zip ties and make it all simple and neat. Oh I don't have anything like idiot lights and their sensors, or oil injection lights, or speedo etc etc. Got the digatron to monitor all that kind of stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
that works thanx for the input.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,947 Posts
Youi may not want to cut wires in case you sell the sled later.

Open Ignition: Newer style ignition including the 1998 and newer ZR’s and ZL’s
A "normally open" ignition system. With this system a live wire goes from the ignition system to all of the switches. The switches are normally open, or not making connection, until in the "OFF" position. When in the "OFF" position the switch will ground the ignition wire to the chassis effectively "grounding out" the ignition system killing the spark. If a connecter becomes disconnected or if a wire gets cut then the switch will no longer turn off the engine. With the "normally closed" system if a connector comes loose or a wire gets cut the spark will stop until the wiring is repaired completing the circuit again.

Testing for all switch problems:
Just unplug the 4 prong connector




Closed Ignition: old style ignition
A "normally closed" ignition which simply means that the wiring needs to have a closed circuit or uninterrupted circuit in order to run. If you cut any ignition wire in a "normally closed" system the engine will die because the power for the ignition runs through all of the switches; key, kill, tether, throttle safety switch, etc. If the connection to any of these is interrupted there will no longer be power to the ignition system and spark will cease. With the "normally closed" system if a connector comes loose or a wire gets cut the spark will stop until the wiring is repaired completing the circuit again. On the closed style ignition the center wire is the ground wire for both the kill switch and the throttle safety switch, so if you cut the center wire you are disabling both switches and opening the circuit so the engine won't run.

Testing for all switch problems:
Unplug the 4 prong connector coming from the stator and put a jumper across the 2 wires that are not yellow.



“Mixing” the 2 ignitions
If you put a closed ignition (CDI and Stator) on an “open” ignition sled (I have a complete 93 ignition on a 2000 chassis) you can just unplug the 3 wire connector for the TSS/Kill switch in the handlebars and the sled will bypass the TSS and kill switch and your sled will still run using the key to shut it off. The only hitch is that the key works backwards. If you unplug the 4 prong connection going to the switches, the sled will not run. Only on a complete “open” ignition can you unplug the 4 prong connector and still start the sled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
alright. well this sled wont be selling for a long long time if ever. it was my fathers before he past away, plus if it does sell it will be sold as striclty a race sled.. anyhow
so i guess im only cutting out lights, and idiot lights, oil sensor, speedo wires. i really dont want a lot of wires on the sled, thats why i dont want to just disconnect the TSS at the handle bars. i want to get rid of as much of the TSS wiring as I can. and any other wires. Isnt there a way i can trick the system so i can just not hook it up? gosh this is confusing and dumb haha. I would actually just like to buy some bigger carbs without the TSS on it, that will totally get rid of it. But wouldnt it still not run since it needs to be complete? what would i do then..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
umm yes... I have 42mm mikuni's on my 1000 engine and not throttle stop switch. Those wires got looped. I guess if the cdi was in any sense smart like an ecu it would see that the carb slides are always at idle thus creating spark. Its not like having the wires looped and having throttle will change anything cause in a sense all they are is kill switches until the engine is running. I believe when I read the wiring diagram for my ignition system many years ago that only two wires coming from the cdi matter and those are the closed loop ignition wires that spark when put together and not when they are apart. Find those two wires and cut out the rest and build a wiring harness evolving around those 2 wires needing to be connected to run.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top