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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What should it be? In or out and how much?
How should it be measured. Can vary depending how far forward and back on ski you measure it.
I measured at the very back center of ski and then at the farthest forward part and center of ski loop.
Came up with 5/8 " toe out
Seems like the plastic skis being warped a little can change that ski loop position,but i guess if it dont ever change from being warped or crooked looking and stays shaped the same prolly ok measuring there.

Also measured in between skis where i put yellow dots. I'll attach a pic. Picked the spot towards the front before ski starts to narrow up. Came up with 1/2" toe out there, when compared to measurement at the yellow dot on side of ski towards the rear.

Thought I should check this. It is on my new sled. Kinda wanted to see where it is set-up at when new.
 

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put a wear bar, or carbide on the ski.

run the sled and adjust the track.

Run a long straight edge along the side of the track

Measure from the edge of your wear bar, to the straight edge, at the front, and rear end of the wear bar.

each ski should be 1/16", to 1/8" toe out, from the straight edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. Pretty sure mine is still going to be toed way too far out with the suggestions on measuring it.

If you want something done right, ya jus as well do it yourself and not count on the other guy that was suppose to do it right, or even check it!
 

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What should it be? In or out and how much?
How should it be measured. Can vary depending how far forward and back on ski you measure it.
I measured at the very back center of ski and then at the farthest forward part and center of ski loop.
Came up with 5/8 " toe out
Seems like the plastic skis being warped a little can change that ski loop position,but i guess if it dont ever change from being warped or crooked looking and stays shaped the same prolly ok measuring there.

Also measured in between skis where i put yellow dots. I'll attach a pic. Picked the spot towards the front before ski starts to narrow up. Came up with 1/2" toe out there, when compared to measurement at the yellow dot on side of ski towards the rear.

Thought I should check this. It is on my new sled. Kinda wanted to see where it is set-up at when new.
Krom listed the proper way to measure toe out, but IMO a 1/16" to an 1/8" could be darty depending on ski pressure and type of carbide. If your sled darts at an 1/8" don't be afraid to toe out to 1/4"-3/8" to eliminate the darting.
 

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My '15 el tigre' was off from day one, so was our 2016 ZR 6000.
Now is the time to check, before you hit the trails. Once your track is straight and centered in the rear skid ( again the 2016 track was off from the dealer) you can check your toe while its on an open trailer. Use the trailers side edges as your straight edge. Just move the sled around until you have the exact measurement at the front of the track and the rear of the track. Then get your handle bars straight and measure away. Part of toe it/toe out is crooked handle bars..i.e. you can have perfect toe but your handle bars are slightly left, You would need to adjust both tie rods equally ( one in and one out) to get the handle bars straight.
A trailer works great for checking toe and I think its faster than the straight edge method. One sled on the trailer is easiest, otherwise your tripping over the other sled.. Enclosed trailer dont work. Just open trailers. And you can stand behind it and almost tell which ski needs the adjustment, just by looking.
I've been doing this for a long time. Finding a 12 foot long straight edge was my problem, so I improvised with the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My '15 el tigre' was off from day one, so was our 2016 ZR 6000.
Now is the time to check, before you hit the trails. Once your track is straight and centered in the rear skid ( again the 2016 track was off from the dealer) you can check your toe while its on an open trailer. Use the trailers side edges as your straight edge. Just move the sled around until you have the exact measurement at the front of the track and the rear of the track. Then get your handle bars straight and measure away. Part of toe it/toe out is crooked handle bars..i.e. you can have perfect toe but your handle bars are slightly left, You would need to adjust both tie rods equally ( one in and one out) to get the handle bars straight.
A trailer works great for checking toe and I think its faster than the straight edge method. One sled on the trailer is easiest, otherwise your tripping over the other sled.. Enclosed trailer dont work. Just open trailers. And you can stand behind it and almost tell which ski needs the adjustment, just by looking.
I've been doing this for a long time. Finding a 12 foot long straight edge was my problem, so I improvised with the trailer.
Thanks for the tip using open trailer for straight edge. The sides on my open trailer are extruded aluminum, I can check them for straightness. Totally under stand getting track straight in skid, and adjusting both tie rods, and make sure handle bars are straight with track while still achieving proper toe.

Good info guys, Thanks again
 

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String idea is a good one.
The trailer method can be used without centering your track, just measure to the slide rail, front and rear.
 

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i run a tight string on both sides of the track it gives you a really good idea whats going on with the skis.. i also put a bungee cord to both ski loops to keep tension and pick up any slack/play you might have ... but yeah using your trailer as a straight edge will work too.
 

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I'm sure the line along the track and measuring from that to the ski works but seams much more complicated than needed. Just setting the skis straight and then measuring between the front and rear carbide bolts will work. Main thing is to make sure you do not have toe-in. Then set for toe-out of 1/8 in and increase as needed to reduce darting. I find 1/4 in works well.
 

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ok...... so how do you know your skis are true to the track?? a straight edge or tight string takes 5 mins to set up.. sorry its not complicated.
 

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You don't need to know they are true to the track to just adjust toe. Set handlebars straight, close enough. Now if when your bars are straight and your skis are turned to a side IE way off and you want the bars to be held straight when driving forward then do the true up to the track. It's never been that far off for me.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

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On the older sleds, you could set the toe and then drive it and correct the handle bars with the tie rod going that went from the steering post to the steering rack, it was located under the engine. The newer sled dont have that anymore. The string/straight edge method gets both accomplished at the same time- toe and handle bars centered--The final measurement is always carbide to carbide to fine tune it. I like my handle bars straight as an arrow. When my ski-doo buddys ride it, the first thing they used to say was " handle bars are crooked" They cant say that any more.
 

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I've got an eight foot oak floor plank 3/4" thick I line up against track and do whatever I have to do to line them up. I had to do this on my T660 and my Sabercat to align the handlebars. What's with slightly crooked handlebars? String would be my choice if I didn't have the plank.
 
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