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Does anyone that owns the new side x side have front suspension noise ?
Mine is so excessive that it sounds like something loose and ready to fall off.
I took it back to dealer and engineers told them it was natural. They went through all the bolts. I can't believe they put that much time into development as they say and then put it out to the consumer like that. I Don't recommend one of these to anyone. I'm affraid something is going to break or wear out just after warranty with the load clunking coming from the front end. You hit a crack in the pavement going down the street and it clunks. I was looking at court, but there telling me can't for suspension noise. Amazing just road in anther brand with 13000 miles on it, no noises and it was not a Polaris. Always been a Cat owner on everything but I see that changing quickly.
 

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Does anyone that owns the new side x side have front suspension noise ?
Mine is so excessive that it sounds like something loose and ready to fall off.
I took it back to dealer and engineers told them it was natural. They went through all the bolts. I can't believe they put that much time into development as they say and then put it out to the consumer like that. I Don't recommend one of these to anyone. I'm affraid something is going to break or wear out just after warranty with the load clunking coming from the front end. You hit a crack in the pavement going down the street and it clunks. I was looking at court, but there telling me can't for suspension noise. Amazing just road in anther brand with 13000 miles on it, no noises and it was not a Polaris. Always been a Cat owner on everything but I see that changing quickly.
Did you ever find out the problem? I have the same unit doing the same thing, as far as I can see there is slack in the sway bar links when riding over uneven terrain and the clunking is when the slack gets taken up. There is really noting else on the front end that would make such noises. If tightening the link nuts does not fix it, I might just remove the swaybar outright. Other than that it's a really nice unit although slightly under powered (it's a crew cab).
 

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Does the sway bar have bushings?
 

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2016 Arctic Cat Alterra 550 XT
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Suspension bushings get dirty then wet and some will squeak. The best option is to grease them or get UMHW bushings which also tighten up the handling.


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2016 Arctic Cat Alterra 550 XT
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The bushings I circled are probably made of plastic similar to my ATV. I removed the swaybar and have had no squeaks. If you want to leave the swaybar just clean and grease those bushings up and you should be good. You could try spraying them with wd40 before you get into it!

Here’s a video I made when I took it off my ATV. It’s similar to the mounts on the Prowler pro.


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Mine did it from brand new and it has less than 100 miles on it now. It's not so much of a squeak as it is the sound of smacking two pieces of aluminium pipe together - hard - when hitting a pothole at anything above 10 mph. It's almost like they forgot to put the bushings in, it sounds like the front end of a Dodge pickup with 300,000 miles on it. I've pulled on everything on the front end with it up on a jack and everything feels tight as a drum, I'm stumped. I'm calling the dealer tomorrow to get it looked at, it's under warranty for 2 years. I'm lucky that there is a long time dealer right in my back yard that seem to have good techs. Other than this issue I am happy so far. Will keep everyone posted.
 

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So my dealer got it in the day after I called which was super but they could not find anything wrong which isn't what I wanted to hear. I wasn't surprised at this though because I checked multiple times myself and could not find anything either. They did do an update on the front brakes while it was in so it wasn't a total loss.

I asked the service advisor about potential warranty issues if I removed the swaybar and he said to just put it back on if I had to bring it back. I suspect that it's related to the swaybar because it seems that the noise only happens when only one front tire hits a bump or takes most of a hit.

I'll probably just remove the links to test it out, and zip-tie the swaybar up out of the way so it doesn't flop around and damage anything. Will post results of this test.
 

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Did you ever find out the problem? I have the same unit doing the same thing, as far as I can see there is slack in the sway bar links when riding over uneven terrain and the clunking is when the slack gets taken up. There is really noting else on the front end that would make such noises. If tightening the link nuts does not fix it, I might just remove the swaybar outright. Other than that it's a really nice unit although slightly under powered (it's a crew cab).
I had the same issue. Running over a rock 5 inches high the suspension seemed solid. However if you hit a small pothole it sounded like the front was falling off. Thankfully the dealer in Gander, NL cpmotorsports.ca helped me out. The noise is coming from the top two coils in the spring separating then closing quickly creating the knocking noise. Since there were no recalls on the issue from Arctic cat, the mechanic placed rubber between the top two coils and the knocking is gone.
(y)
 

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I had the same issue. Running over a rock 5 inches high the suspension seemed solid. However if you hit a small pothole it sounded like the front was falling off. Thankfully the dealer in Gander, NL cpmotorsports.ca helped me out. The noise is coming from the top two coils in the spring separating then closing quickly creating the knocking noise. Since there were no recalls on the issue from Arctic cat, the mechanic placed rubber between the top two coils and the knocking is gone.
(y)
That makes a lot of sense, I am going to have to give that a try. Like you say, you can hit a rock or bump and nothing but as soon as your wheel drops into a pothole and then impacts coming out of it, bang!

I thought for sure it would have been related to the swaybar because the rear end doesn't do it and the biggest difference is no sway bar in the rear. I ended up taking my links off but there was no change so I but them back and while I was at it, I put on an aftermarket grommet kit made from polyurethane which is much stiffer than the soft rubber ones that came stock. The grommets I put on are Daystar KU08004B and are the same dimensions as stock. They come with washers but I did not use them because the threaded ends of the links are not long enough. The washers aren't really required anyways because the nuts are of the flanged type.

Did you have any issues with the rubber coming out of the springs or did the mechanic attach it somehow so it couldn't work it's way out? I'm actually over in Corner Brook and bought my pro crew at Western Motorsports which is literally a 2 minute drive out my back yard. I was up there a while ago getting a small coolant leak fixed (they should be using worm gear clamps rather than the spring type) and the last word was they were waiting on a fix from Cat.

Thanks a bunch for the tip by the way, I had not replied sooner because I must have logged out of the forum at some point so didn't get a notification...
 

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The dealer put hard rubber between the top two coils and used tie wraps to hold it there. I think something synthetic like nylon would be better since one of the tie wraps are now broken (rubber still there). I think you'll eventually get the same knocking on the rear springs as well. The rubber was put on all 4 springs. I'm surprised AC didn't recall this issue.
 

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The dealer put hard rubber between the top two coils and used tie wraps to hold it there. I think something synthetic like nylon would be better since one of the tie wraps are now broken (rubber still there). I think you'll eventually get the same knocking on the rear springs as well. The rubber was put on all 4 springs. I'm surprised AC didn't recall this issue.
I did the same thing with my own last night and I plan to go up to the dealer sometime this week and look at the 2021s to see what the updated springs are like.
 

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The springs on the 2021 are totally different, the coils are equally spaced from top to bottom. I rocked the machine side to side and could not replicate the noise that is in mine when I do the same. I called my dealer and they said to call Cat which I did, the rep said they were going to refer it to the technical department and someone would contact me.
 

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Well the snow is going so it's back to UTV season... sorry for the late follow-up.

I never did hear back from anyone at Cat afterwards with regard to replacement/updated springs. The rep I talked to originally told me that they would not do anything unless the dealer provided a diagnosis. This is after the dealer said they could not find a problem and that I should call Cat directly. Basically, they are hiding behind each other. None of this is surprising, all of these outfits do this sort of thing. I had frame rust and oil consumption issues with a Honda once and it was the same deal.

The rubber strips I placed between the springs never really stayed in place and the zip ties I used just broke. My new plan is to remove each spring/shock assembly, one at a time and compress the spring and try to get some rubber hose pushed on over the first couple of coils on the top of the spring.

I expect the biggest hurdle will be compressing the spring, I have done this successfully in the past with ratchet straps (using two, one opposing the other) but these are much bigger diameter springs. I will have to break out my 2" straps for the job and try and find the right sized hose before hand. My plan is to lubricate the springs with WD40 to aid in getting the hose on, wish me luck.
 

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Well the snow is going so it's back to UTV season... sorry for the late follow-up.

I never did hear back from anyone at Cat afterwards with regard to replacement/updated springs. The rep I talked to originally told me that they would not do anything unless the dealer provided a diagnosis. This is after the dealer said they could not find a problem and that I should call Cat directly. Basically, they are hiding behind each other. None of this is surprising, all of these outfits do this sort of thing. I had frame rust and oil consumption issues with a Honda once and it was the same deal.

The rubber strips I placed between the springs never really stayed in place and the zip ties I used just broke. My new plan is to remove each spring/shock assembly, one at a time and compress the spring and try to get some rubber hose pushed on over the first couple of coils on the top of the spring.

I expect the biggest hurdle will be compressing the spring, I have done this successfully in the past with ratchet straps (using two, one opposing the other) but these are much bigger diameter springs. I will have to break out my 2" straps for the job and try and find the right sized hose before hand. My plan is to lubricate the springs with WD40 to aid in getting the hose on, wish me luck.
I think a garden hose should work! The rubber on my springs are still in place for now. If that fails i will attempt something similar. You may be able to locate a spring compression tool from an automotive shop that'll make the job easier. Maybe the AC dealer?
 

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I think a garden hose should work! The rubber on my springs are still in place for now. If that fails i will attempt something similar. You may be able to locate a spring compression tool from an automotive shop that'll make the job easier. Maybe the AC dealer?
So I took my spring/shock assemblies out today to have a look. I have to say that it was very easy to remove them, lots of room to work. I used some WD-40 and a tooth brush to clean the grid out of the threads before removing each nut. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up the threads on the nuts/bolts.

It was way easier to compress the springs than I thought using a 2" ratchet strap. They don't seem to have a whole lot of preload on them, I did not have to compress them much at all to get the top retainer off the shock shaft. That said, this is still a situation where you could give your finger a nip when releasing the strap so be careful.
thumbnail_image3.jpg

I bought one 5 ft washing machine water supply hose and ended up using 2 ft of hose on each spring. The inside diameter of the hose turned out to be smaller than the spring material, Hose with a 1/2" or 9/16" ID would be a better fit. There is no gap at the top end of the spring, the end of the top coil is touching the next coil down so I had to cut the hose the whole length of itself to get it on. Due to this, it didn't really matter that the hose was too small.
thumbnail_image2.jpg

I put a zip tie on the bottom and ended up putting another one just above the first, on the next coil up (not shown). I don't think I need anything at the top since the weight of the vehicle should keep the hose in place at the top. I also sprayed hairspray on the inside of the hose to hopefully help keep it in place, I've seen this used to keep dirt bike handle bar grips in place.

I put the spring/shock assemblies back on and when I released the jack, the weight of the sxs compressed the springs enough that the hose is being held in place, hopefully it will stay in place. If it does not, I will try some bigger hose.
thumbnail_image4.jpg thumbnail_image5.jpg
 

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So I took my spring/shock assemblies out today to have a look. I have to say that it was very easy to remove them, lots of room to work. I used some WD-40 and a tooth brush to clean the grid out of the threads before removing each nut. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up the threads on the nuts/bolts.

It was way easier to compress the springs than I thought using a 2" ratchet strap. They don't seem to have a whole lot of preload on them, I did not have to compress them much at all to get the top retainer off the shock shaft. That said, this is still a situation where you could give your finger a nip when releasing the strap so be careful.
View attachment 367420

I bought one 5 ft washing machine water supply hose and ended up using 2 ft of hose on each spring. The inside diameter of the hose turned out to be smaller than the spring material, Hose with a 1/2" or 9/16" ID would be a better fit. There is no gap at the top end of the spring, the end of the top coil is touching the next coil down so I had to cut the hose the whole length of itself to get it on. Due to this, it didn't really matter that the hose was too small.
View attachment 367421

I put a zip tie on the bottom and ended up putting another one just above the first, on the next coil up (not shown). I don't think I need anything at the top since the weight of the vehicle should keep the hose in place at the top. I also sprayed hairspray on the inside of the hose to hopefully help keep it in place, I've seen this used to keep dirt bike handle bar grips in place.

I put the spring/shock assemblies back on and when I released the jack, the weight of the sxs compressed the springs enough that the hose is being held in place, hopefully it will stay in place. If it does not, I will try some bigger hose.
View attachment 367422 View attachment 367423
That looks like it should work. The only issue is the tie wrap busting under compression. I agree, a larger hose would be better. However the washer hose should be rigid enough to stay in place in the event of a busted tie wrap. Thanks for the update/pics. Good luck!
Btw, i'm looking at purchasing a cab kit for the prowler pro. I want a soft cab kit so its easy to remove/install and its much cheaper. I found a suitable one in the US but i dont know of a supplier in canada. Any ideas?
 

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So I took my spring/shock assemblies out today to have a look. I have to say that it was very easy to remove them, lots of room to work. I used some WD-40 and a tooth brush to clean the grid out of the threads before removing each nut. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up the threads on the nuts/bolts.

It was way easier to compress the springs than I thought using a 2" ratchet strap. They don't seem to have a whole lot of preload on them, I did not have to compress them much at all to get the top retainer off the shock shaft. That said, this is still a situation where you could give your finger a nip when releasing the strap so be careful.
View attachment 367420

I bought one 5 ft washing machine water supply hose and ended up using 2 ft of hose on each spring. The inside diameter of the hose turned out to be smaller than the spring material, Hose with a 1/2" or 9/16" ID would be a better fit. There is no gap at the top end of the spring, the end of the top coil is touching the next coil down so I had to cut the hose the whole length of itself to get it on. Due to this, it didn't really matter that the hose was too small.
View attachment 367421

I put a zip tie on the bottom and ended up putting another one just above the first, on the next coil up (not shown). I don't think I need anything at the top since the weight of the vehicle should keep the hose in place at the top. I also sprayed hairspray on the inside of the hose to hopefully help keep it in place, I've seen this used to keep dirt bike handle bar grips in place.

I put the spring/shock assemblies back on and when I released the jack, the weight of the sxs compressed the springs enough that the hose is being held in place, hopefully it will stay in place. If it does not, I will try some bigger hose.
View attachment 367422 View attachment 367423
That looks like it should work. The only issue is the tie wrap busting under compression. I agree, a larger hose would be better. However the washer hose should be rigid enough to stay in place in the event of a busted tie wrap. Thanks for the update/pics. Good luck!
Btw, i'm looking at purchasing a cab kit for the prowler pro. I want a soft cab kit so its easy to remove/install and its much cheaper. I found a suitable one in the US but i dont know of a supplier in canada. Any ideas?
 

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That looks like it should work. The only issue is the tie wrap busting under compression. I agree, a larger hose would be better. However the washer hose should be rigid enough to stay in place in the event of a busted tie wrap. Thanks for the update/pics. Good luck!
Btw, i'm looking at purchasing a cab kit for the prowler pro. I want a soft cab kit so its easy to remove/install and its much cheaper. I found a suitable one in the US but i dont know of a supplier in canada. Any ideas?
Try ebay.ca

This is a decision I struggled with, I wanted a full front windshield but venting is needed for dust control (unless you go full cab). You can get vented windshields (OEM and aftermarket) but they are all ploy. If I were to get a full windshield, a wiper would be a must but the wiper would destroy the vented poly windshield in short order. A full glass windshield is available from AC but there are no vents. If I were to get the glass windshield to allow for a wiper, I would need to get 4 doors (mine is a crew), heater, etc. to control dust. All of that would be too much $$$ and also, it would be too hot in the summer.

What I ended up getting is a hard coated poly half front windshield, hard roof and rear poly window (all OEM). The idea behind the rear window is that it creates positive air pleasure in the cab while driving along, thus cutting down on dust (the effect of my setup is opposite to that of a utv with full front windshield and no back window where the cab fills with dust because of lower air pressure in the cab when moving along). I went with the hard roof because my last utv was a Honda Pioneer 500 with a soft top. That top had fiberglass rods/bows but water would still pool in the top while parked or riding and end up my lap anytime I hit the brakes.

I'm also thinking of getting a piece of lexan cut at a local glass shop to a shape similar to that of sun visors in a car and mount it in a similar way. The idea being that when it rains, I can pull it down thus reducing the gap between the top of the half windshield and roof somewhat. I can also put window tint film on it to cut down on glare from the sun. Tinted sun visors for utvs are available but the only ones I saw when I looked were only 12" wide. For simplicity sake, I think I would go with a one piece visor.

Edit:
I just found these which may work - Speedway Replacement Lexan Wind Wings With Holes, Smoke Tint | eBay
 
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