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Can any one help with the correct procedure of adjusting my track. I have just had the rear skid out for maintainance and spring replacement. I'm kind of a first timer with a sled, it wasnt as hard as I thought. I just have no way to know the specs or procedures. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (martym628 @ Jan 11 2007, 05:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Can any one help with the correct procedure of adjusting my track. I have just had the rear skid out for maintainance and spring replacement. I'm kind of a first timer with a sled, it wasnt as hard as I thought. I just have no way to know the specs or procedures. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated[/b]
I am unsure what type of sled you have so track tension could be anything.
But the two bolts by the rear idler that point forward.
Undo the lock nuts, and adjust the tension.
As in say if it was an M sled like all 3 of mine, I adjust to about 2.5 inches of sag as it free hangs on my track stand.
Run the sled up after adjusting tension.
Do not use the brake to stop the track, just let it roll to a stop.
Shut off the motor and then with a flashlite look, otr with your fingers feel for equal distance on the center idler wheel, to the small lugs inside the track.
If they are centered, you are good to go.
If its not centered, figure out what way the track has to be moved....if say move it to the right side, undo the left lock nut and tighten the bolt a little, thus shifting the track to the right.
Run it up again, and repeat till its centered.

The first time takes a while as you figure it out.
After that its like a 1 minute job. :beer_cheers:
 

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Oh and if you ride a sled with extrovert drivers it can generally be looser.
Internal drivers only need to be a lot tighter.
You may have a short track trail sled and it may have just 1 inch when hanging.
Each sled is different.
Run it as loose as you can without ratcheting.
If it does ratchet ( the drivers spinning inside the track without actually turning the track) then its too loose and needs to be tightened up some.
All 3 of my sleds run extroverts, and are longer mountain style tracks, thus the 2.5 inches of free hanging sag.

And sag is measured with the sled suspended, usually on a track stand.
Then measure from the sliders to the inside of the track on the bottom, at the point of most distance between the two.
I have seen them as tight as say 3/4 inch, to as loose as 3.5 inches.
So it all depends on the sled.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mcflying @ Jan 11 2007, 01:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Oh and if you ride a sled with extrovert drivers it can generally be looser.
Internal drivers only need to be a lot tighter.
You may have a short track trail sled and it may have just 1 inch when hanging.
Each sled is different.
Run it as loose as you can without ratcheting.
If it does ratchet ( the drivers spinning inside the track without actually turning the track) then its too loose and needs to be tightened up some.
All 3 of my sleds run extroverts, and are longer mountain style tracks, thus the 2.5 inches of free hanging sag.

And sag is measured with the sled suspended, usually on a track stand.
Then measure from the sliders to the inside of the track on the bottom, at the point of most distance between the two.
I have seen them as tight as say 3/4 inch, to as loose as 3.5 inches.
So it all depends on the sled.[/b]
:thumbsup: Run it as loose as you can without ratcheting exactly :beer_cheers:
 

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You want about 1.5 inches of deflection measured from the bottom of the hyfax to the track clips, using a 20 pound weight hanging from the track at the mid point or about 16 inches from the rear axle.

Once you have it the same on both sides, start the sled and spin the track while on a track stand to set the the side to side clearance of the track guide clips to the side of the hyfax. For example if the track is shifted to far to the left tighten the left adjusting screw in small increments then start the sled up and spin the track again. Do this until the side to side is even. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE WEIGHT BEFORE SPINNING THE TRACK!

Note: do not use the brake to stop the track. Just spin it for few seconds then shut the engine off and let the track stop on it's own. Using the brake can cause a false side to side reading.
 

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I think my track hangs about 2-3 inches when it's off the ground, no weights. I would run it alot looser than what the specs say, the 1 1/2 inch with 20lbs, unless you enjoy changing sliders and paying for gas.
 
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