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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My problem is this:
When riding at the trail and when I get to some bumpy parts and drive 70km/h which is like 44mph one of my cylinders "dies". Just one is working and I've to shut down the sled for a couple of minutes and "shake" it a little bit and then fire it up again and it works like a charm. This only happens when I ride into bumps and such. While running at lakes and flat surfaces it's all okey. My TPS was kinda broken so I'm about to change in on Thursday and my carbs aren't synced either so I will sync 'em.
I've changed the sparkplug cables but the problem is still there. Can it be something other than TPS/Sync related?

Thanks in advance and bear with my english since it's not as perfect as yours.

/ Nicklas

*EDIT* I've a 3 degree offset timing key and run it on 98 octane fuel *EDIT*
 

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Try the inlet needle valve, it might be sticking. Pull the bowl off, hold the carb up level and actuate the float if the needle hesitates to drop for just a split second, that is probably the problem. good luck.
 

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I have a 2003 F5 STD with the same problem. Seems like an intermittent miss at part throttle. I am going to pull my TPS to see if that helps. I have been thru the carbs and power valves with no change. I have not changed plug wires, coil, etc yet. I have been looking for grounded/chafed wires but have not found anything. It could be the power valves cycling because it never happens when they are open. Let me know if you figure it out, I have been chasing this since I have owned the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now you will have to explain to me what "The Coil" is :p I will be looking at browns to try to figure it out but I guess it won't make my any smarter :p

*EDIT* Are we talking about the ignition coil now? *EDIT*
 

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Ignition coil yes. But from what I have heard is that the coil fires both plugs at the same time, even though the other piston is not at compression stroke. So if the sled goes down on the same cylinder all the time, I would say it isn't the coil. What do you mean your TPS is kinda broken? Sounds electrical to me. Try running it without the throttle saftey switch......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The tps was physically broken, the plastic had cracks in it and it was repaired.
Well I always have a spark, that's for sure. It's just that it seems like it doesn't get any fuel at all. But then again, my throttle valves aren't the same height. If you get what I mean. The guy who had it before me had it tuned and f**ked up the original settings of the carbs. Anyway I will have it in a authorized Arctic Cat workshop in 9 hours so I'll ask them what the problem could be.
 

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well if it is your throttle saftey switch F'n up, then the ECU will throw tons of fuel at the engine to make is super safe, super rich and it may seem like you are only runnin on one cylinder....betcha its the throttle saftey switch, or the TPS. Get Arctic cat to repair it/ ohm it out from idle to max. I think your problem is more than likely electrical.
 

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its an F5, meaning NON EFI... the F5 only comes with carbs and the M5 has a single throttle body or twin carbs... not sure its got an ECU that can throw fuel
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey, nope I don't think it use a ECU either since I've got as cweinzatl35 says, 2 carbs in a one body.
 

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yip, sorry you are right...F5 Carbs only. Wonder if it could be the CDI box..that thing is crazy expensive. Wonder if you can get that tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah like 800 USD :( I hope it runs fine when I get it back tomorrow, then I will sell it asap to get a rid of the troubles :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm in the state of Sweden :p You know in Europe?
Well it can't be the CDI Box because it runs fine on flat surfaces, if it was the CDI it should be screwing with the sled even at flat surfaces.
I'm going to talk with my dealer tomorrow about the problem and see if they might know the solution.
If I can get it to work properly I can sell it for about $6200 :) Sleds in Sweden is bloody expensive compared to your country, since we have taxes and **** :( We need to add 25% at least to your prices to know how much we need to pay for it in the end.
 

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Ya I seen in your profile you were from Europe..but I assumed you were born there. I spent a bunch of time the Netherlands. Wished I would have went to Sweden however. If you say its fine on flat surfaces, it really could be related to carbs then, or a wire shorting out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I spoke my with dealer, somehow he couldn't get the tps-values right, it could be due to the cables bla bla. So now I'm considering to buy new cables and all that stuff, I will have to check it out though. Need to get a rid of this sled it only causes me problems and lack of money :p


*EDIT* We I got the sled back today and it seems like it runs fine! I ran on the trail for a couple of kilometers and it didn't die :D The guy who fixed my carbs and made the steeringupdate said he found some cracks that I should fix before it get worse (which I will of course) and I've to change the weights in the clutch and I should have a pretty okey sled. He commented the wiring and said that it's far from original, seems like the dude I bought it from made some ghetto wiring. The guy I bought it from is an authorized Arctic Cat Mechanic so it should be fine though. I'm considering to buy a clutch kit instead of just new weights. *EDIT*
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just wanted to update you guys and say that the sled is running fine now! It can take the bumps without problems and is smooth while riding! I rode it some today and tried to push it as hard as I could (my 2nd run this year). I only ended up with running 50km/h on the bumpy parts of the trail where I usually ride 70km/h hah :p

It seems like it was the carbs that caused my problems. Either it was the problem with valve's not being properly synced or the TPS being broken.
I got a check engine thingie during idle, I suppose it is due to overheat since it's +1C outside here and I'm a little low on liquid in the cooling system.

/ Nicklas - A Happy Cat owner
 
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