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I have a 2015 XF9000 snow pro 137 I removed what was necessary to remove wheels to replace all the bearings. I got everything back together except to get the 2 remaining bolts in the tunnel! I can't get them to line up. What is the procedure to get them lined up to get the bolts in? See pics!
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Never used a strap but I tighten track until holes line up. Quick, simple and adjust track tension as need after.
 

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Lift the short leg of the springs off the adjuster block with the Cat tool and there is no need to fiddle with ratchet straps or touch the track tension. Lift them back on when done.

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That takes longer than hooking a $2.00 ratchet strap to the suspension. Most do not have that tool as well.
Huh?
You flip the sled on it's side, disconnect a short leg, blast the bolt out with impact, flip it and disconnect the other side spring and remove the other bolt and pull the skid from the track in less than 2 minutes; same on the install. My skid goes in faster than most could thread a strap through and still be jacking it into position with a headstart. $2.00 is about what we spent on welding rod 25 years ago to make 5 of the tools out of unused scrap.
 

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Huh?
You flip the sled on it's side, disconnect a short leg, blast the bolt out with impact, flip it and disconnect the other side spring and remove the other bolt and pull the skid from the track in less than 2 minutes; same on the install. My skid goes in faster than most could thread a strap through and still be jacking it into position with a headstart. $2.00 is about what we spent on welding rod 25 years ago to make 5 of the tools out of unused scrap.
I put the strap on before I reinstall. I dont even have a welder. No need to relocktight is also a plus. Why over think? Why argue?
 

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Using proper tools is over thinking? Watch any crew at any race or most dealerships in the country when and if they have skid issues and this is the exact way they do it, not caveman it with straps. I hope someone doesn't lose a finger between a loaded suspension and a sharp edge when a frayed strap cuts loose but have at it. Skid bolts without a drop of blue Loctite leads to boogered holes. I'm out.
 

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Using proper tools is over thinking? Watch any crew at any race or most dealerships in the country when and if they have skid issues and this is the exact way they do it, not caveman it with straps. I hope someone doesn't loose a finger between a loaded suspension and a sharp edge when a frayed strap cuts loose but have at it. Skid bolts without a drop of blue Loctite leads to boogered holes. I'm out.
Caveman with straps? Takes 5 seconds to install a ratchet strap. What are you thinking? Frayed strap cuts loose? You only are pulling it in maybe an inch and unless you are tight, most people keep good straps around. I use the ones that I use to tie my ATV down to the trailer. Talk about making a mountain out of a mole hill. I dont need to put new lock tight on because I did not remove any bolts other than the tunnel bolts and those do not require it.
 

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Guys, mellow down. Man, we could use some snow. ;)
Either method works. Release the spring tension, or use a strap.
I have had those bolts work loose in the past. I honestly got lucky twice and found them loose on my daily pre-ride inspection. I hadn't dropped the skid on either of the two sleds. Blue isn't bad insurance. The bolts have a dab on them when purchased new.
 

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I stated that incorrectly. On my newer sleds with the torque link, I do lock tight them. Was working on an older sled with the cross shaft and I dont on those because of the inner shaft spinning on me when I go to remove the other bolt.
 

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ZR6000, you bring up a good point with the older style cross shaft.
These newer style can also be a challenge to remove the bolt. I've had a few with the idler wheels sitting awful close to the hanger bracket. That makes it hard to get a wrench on the axle nut. Loctite doesn't make it any easier.
Yamahunter, It helps to check that clearance when you are ready to tighten the bolt. Some of mine were delivered with very little clearance. I have a modified thin face flat wrench that I use on those with tight clearance. Basically, just check to see if a wrench fits between the wheel and bracket before you start to tighten the assembly.
 

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A nother option is to unbolt the spring retainers at the long end, one bolt. A lot less spring tension there than the short end. Tug the spring to the outside of the track edge. Get your mounts lined up, tighten, and put the spring retainers back on. EZPZ. Dap blue lock tight on every bolt you can.
 

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I always lay the sled on its side for this step. Use a ratchet strap wrapped around the front and rear arm. Tighten it up until the holes line up. Blue loctite and run it home with an impact.

As already mentioned, those bolts can work loose. I even carry spares in the truck just in case.
 

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A nother option is to unbolt the spring retainers at the long end, one bolt. A lot less spring tension there than the short end. Tug the spring to the outside of the track edge. Get your mounts lined up, tighten, and put the spring retainers back on. EZPZ. Dap blue lock tight on every bolt you can.
This ^^^^^ is the way I've done it for 30+ years. I was going to post this, but you beat me to it

No special spring tool. No ratchet strap. As always, many ways to skin a Cat ---- or in this case, put a skid in a Cat.......
 

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Regular strap is what I've using for 30 plus years but it is compressed while suspension is out of the sled. Ratchet style works good once suspension is partially installed. I have done what Taperk600 and other have mentioned also. Spring removal, front side. Strap is by far the easiest and quickest. Both methods work nice.
 
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