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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My son and I have matching 06 M7 LE's. Mine is 162" and his is a 153". My 162" is bone stock. Over the summer we added the following to my sons 153":

Carbon Tech Reeds: $80.00
D & D Y-Pipe: $95.00
Bikeman Pipe Mod: $175.00
Sno-Stuff Rumble Pack: $175.00
1.5 Timing Key: $15.00
4-D & D Bulls Eyes: $45.00
Big air intake: $15.00

Saturday we lined them up for 1/2 mile run across Meadow Creek Res. at Frazer, CO.

My son weighs 140# and I @ 230#.

With multiple runs and with my lard [email protected]# on my 162" we went side by side accross the Res.

But my sons 153" sure sounds nice.

So is this a "Priceless or Worthless investment?"
 

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i'm getting older so modding sleds is getting to be a thing of the past for me. looking more for something now that is pretty much ready to pull and go. in the end i figure your really just throwing all that money away, when you sell the sled the options really don't bring you much more resale value. in fact if i were looking for a used sled i would stay away from one that was heavily modded, less reliable and probably used pretty hard. don't know if i'm even gonna put a can on my new sled, like the low noise level.
 

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I'm with the Sandman on this. It used to be that you could really wake a sled up with aftermarket parts. But the manufacturers are getting so competitive that they are not leaving a lot of ponies on the table. I have a '97 V-Max 4 Mountain Max that got cash shoved in it and it really rips. But it's not worth a lot of money even if there were only 5 sold that year. My new M-7 Will stay stock except for the relocation bracket,One of Ollies risers, ( You shipped that yet )?, and maybe some cool bling for the back wheels. Also considering some of those cool looking Slydog Skis in Mottled Orange and Black. I'm getting older too and I'm tired of the loud pipes. Plus it seems like they just pss every non-sledder off. If you just have to get more power, put it on the bottle.
 

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I pretty much just stick to clutching. I have learned enough over the years of what works for me. I don't do clutch kits any more as they never seem to live up the the hype.
 

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I'm guessing the timeing key you used is creating a bog in the bottom end if you have an efi sled I think those are designed fo carb models that don't have a cdi to mess with, also if you put a chevy big block motor in it and don't mess with the clutch then you have way over invested on only half of the potential you need to clutch. look at your primary you should see how high your belt is shifting out on each sled sounds like they are the same, if you don't change your clutch set up you are restricting your mods. If you have increased horsepower then put heavier weights in the primary and maybe a little stiffer spring in the secondary, play around with it a little bit it is cheap but very effective. Every one has thier own set up they like I have replaced the shims in the secondary with a thrust bearing (a very thin bearing that uses needle bearings) does it work? I think so it removes the friction of the spring against the helix movement. There are a ton of springs try using some and I'm sure your son will have to come back and dust you off.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Schneehagen @ Jan 23 2007, 01:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm guessing the timeing key you used is creating a bog in the bottom end if you have an efi sled I think those are designed fo carb models that don't have a cdi to mess with, also if you put a chevy big block motor in it and don't mess with the clutch then you have way over invested on only half of the potential you need to clutch. look at your primary you should see how high your belt is shifting out on each sled sounds like they are the same, if you don't change your clutch set up you are restricting your mods. If you have increased horsepower then put heavier weights in the primary and maybe a little stiffer spring in the secondary, play around with it a little bit it is cheap but very effective. Every one has thier own set up they like I have replaced the shims in the secondary with a thrust bearing (a very thin bearing that uses needle bearings) does it work? I think so it removes the friction of the spring against the helix movement. There are a ton of springs try using some and I'm sure your son will have to come back and dust you off.[/b]

I was thinking along the same lines... You invested in mods and did not adjust the clutches. You need to establish where the new power curve is and then clutch accordingly. Otherwise there is even a chance your stock sled could go be faster/quicker than your sons.

:beer_cheers:
 

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Trying putting the stock can on there are very few out there that work and even then it all depends on the sled. Seems like the same can 1 in 10 will develop a problem and even with a good can and the right sled a boondocker is a necessity on most of these to get them running right with any modifications. I would definetly try it with the stock can and try swapping out the Ypipe to as alot of people have said that the 700 can't flow enough air at high elevations to run the Ypipe. I had one on my M7 last year with some other stuff and at low elevation it would run great with the boondocker setup. At elevation out west though no matter what I did I had a bog that I couldn't get rid of. Put the stock Ypipe on this year and no problems anymore.
 

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The only thing you achieved was too lose a little weight. Those mods aren't known to gain much hp (Ypipe/timing key are the exception), and even if you did add hp your not going to put it too the track without changing the clutching.
A 153" that weighs 100# less should take a 162" on a straightaway. Do they both have the challenger track?
 

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Drop the can. The reeds, timing key, and pipe mod work to get the most of of these sleds you need a boondocker controller though. Really the first thing I would do is the controller cause without it you can't get the most out of the rest of the modifications. The cans have been causing problems on many of the 06 programmed M7s the program is just to close to spot on to allow for the can. Also snow stuff IMO is a sound only can and some weight savings I highly doubt they do any dyno testing. Thats the best place to start though is the stock can.
 

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I agree with ndmtnsleddr the Boondocker is the way to go. I pieced my M mods together as I went but when i went to the boondocker and got rid of the lean bog on the bottom and the fatty on top it all came together. Also some cans are crap. they r noice makers made for 2500 ft not 6-10000.
 

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Hi tyler nice to see you online. Are you still looking for some beacons if so give me a call i'm at home for awhile now and can get you the guys number or order them for you.
 

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Besides the clutching it could very well be the can, there are many on Snowest who have tried different things, and only certain cans keep the sled from loosing power. Many even run the stock can with the 800 big bore due to the fact it makes more power. I am not sure of the design on the runmble pack, but if it is more straight-though design you may have lost HP and TQ

ZRjohn
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tried the stock can today and it in deed did perform better. I'm going to address the ACT drive adjustment to make sure the belt is not to low in the sheave's.

Thanks for all you inputs!

Ride 'em hard and put them away wet.....
 

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Yeah, with the mods that you've done you really should think about boondocking it. With the mods that I did can, air horn, mine would bog big time when I went to WOT, and only turn about 6grand. I'd have to get off it and hammer it again to clean it out. I thought with more air getting to the motor it was running lean. (Like with my Banshee with Toomey T5's and no air box I had to richen it up a ton.) When I boondocked it, I had to lean it out a bit not make it richer! I ride from 5 to 8k ft, and the mods really help once you get it dialed in. It nice to have mid range power now, I didn't before, even when it was stock, just ran too fat. I run my M6 right with my buddy M7s and Dragon no prob.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (whoopie59 @ Jan 29 2007, 12:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Tried the stock can today and it in deed did perform better. I'm going to address the ACT drive adjustment to make sure the belt is not to low in the sheave's.

Thanks for all you inputs!

Ride 'em hard and put them away wet.....[/b]
I'm guessing u put the timing key in the wrong way thus retarding the ignition instead of advancing it.
 
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