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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. I bought a used 06 CF7 in September and just love the thing. It is the ultimate tall mans sled. I'm 6'5" and have never had something fit me better. I did add an Ole's 3.5" riser.(Great Product!!!) Here's the deal. I am getting frustrated and wanted to see if anyone could help me out before I pay a $75/hour shop fee. Last week my CF7 started running kind of funky like it was really loading up and after about 20 minutes of riding I couldn't hardly get it to run over 7000rpm, so i figured maybe the APV could be gummed up, so I cleaned them, but I don't think cleaned them good enough. They were pretty bad, don't think they had been touched. So, this weekend i went through them again and really got the carbon off of them. I took it out and it ran a lot better for about a half hour and then it started doing the same thing!

bang your head I have backed out my oil injection linkage out one turn. I'm just using AC APV synthetic oil. The valves seem to slip in and out of the jugs easy and smooth. Could i have put a gasket on the wrong way or something that could be causing them to stick? Could the little servo, or motor that pulls the cables be weak or shot? The cables are fine. I can't figure out why it gets worse as the motor get hotter! If anyone has any ideas, i would love to hear them!
 

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When you cleaned your power valves did you loosen the cable? The cable needs to be adjusted within cetain tolerances. I wish I could tell you what the tolerance is; if you do a search on here or HCS you'll be able to find it. Unless, you have a copy of the maint manual. Keep us posted.
 

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I sorta had this problem in May of 2006, I would hit 50-60 mph and I would hit a wall for power and speed, and I would bog if I tried to pin it, max rpms no more the 7000. If I pinnned it from a stop I would bog 50% of the time and the rest of the time it would run like a rapped ape, let of the gas and drop rpms below 7000 and pin it again it would bog again.

First I though it was my power valves so I pulled them and they were loosed, I cleaned them anyway and took it out again and the problem was not fixed. So I took my clutches apart and noticed one of the set screws on the flywieghts backed out a little causing the flyweight have more play. I repalced the pin, the weights and the set screws and cleaned my clutches and this appeared to fix my problem.
 

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#1 Pull the cover off your servo. (Best if you pull the pipe off)
#2 If you pulled the pipe off, put it back on.
#3 Start the sled warm it up, put sled on jack stand. Gas the throttle, the servo motor should move open at around 7200 RPM.
#4 If servo motor moves 3 times in a row you valves are stuck. The motor will also move 3 times if there is not enough resistance.
#5 Your manual also tell you how much cable should be should be showing.
You should buy a CD manual for your sled on E-Bay, about 12.00 It will explain it all, it is pretty simple. I had 2100 miles before I cleaned my valves they were not to dirty. I run Amsoil.
Here is a post on Power valves http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45246
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys, thanks for your ideas and help. I checked my clutches, pulled apart my primary, and everything seems to be in good shape. I cleaned my pvs again and they are the cleanest around. I held the rear up with a forklift and rapped it out quite a few times and the servo is opening the valves when it should and nothing is sticking on them. What happens is on the initial hit, it will rev out to 7400-7600, and then it quickly backs down to the 6900 range, and then it will never top 7000 again, unless i let it idle back down and sit for a second.

I am maybe thinking it is my fuel pump.? Could it be that it is just getting weak? It fills the fuel rail when at idle and then after the rail has cleared out, the pump has trouble keeping up? I don't know a lot about the EFI's, this is my first one. An added note, on saturday, I had trouble getting it started. It had been about -15 F. that night and it was about 0 F. when i tried to start it. My roomates F7 fired right up, and we had used the same gas and had equal levels from the night before. If this makes sense to anyone, get back to me.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I figured out what was wrong! I forgot to mention that I had a Bikeman lightweight silencer on it. I called a local dealer and he told me to take it off and put the factory can on it and the thing ran like a champ all weekend. He said that some cans don't create enough back pressure on the motor. He told me that they have been having problems with MBRP, and Sno Stuff also. I really like the sound of the Bikeman, but if it is going to cost me that much performance, I will have to part with it! Does anyone know anything about getting around the problem or does Bikeman have any fixes?
 

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you should exchange your bikeman can for a bikeman stealth pipe. that should save weight, and you would just use your stock can and it would still sound better than stock.
 
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