Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,
We have an '04 400 4x4 manual. My kids have been riding it a lot and to say the least, they are not so great at shifting gears. One son came back complaining it wouldn't move very well so I checked it out. There is no power going to the wheels, intermittently. The engine will rev to high heaven but it won't move, no matter the gear. However, occasionally it will act fine. I don't get it. What is up with this thing?? Tranny rebuild??I dunno

Thanks,
JT
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
40,682 Posts
Wet clutch!! What kind of oil are you using?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,170 Posts
sounds like the kids wore out the clutch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,867 Posts
There is a couple screws on the side of the engine case for adjusting the clutch. The procedure is covered in the service manual ( link in my signature). If that doesn't help replacement of the clutch disc pack will be required.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jtmattison

·
Banned
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I used regular Valvoline 10W 40 the last time I changed the oil. It's been fine for a long time. I guess I better change to the right oil! I'll give it a shot adjusting the clutch too. I hope it works.
If not, how bad is it to rebuild?

Thanks,
JT
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
40,682 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I did the clutch adjustment procedure and changed the oil to Rotella T as suggested on this forum. No good. The clutch engages as it should when you first put it in gear but it's just not putting the power to the ground. I took it out for about 3 minutes and when I got it back in the garage the cover over the clutch was HOT. I pulled the dipstick and smoke came out. Bad, bad, bad. Clutch rebuild time.

JT
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,170 Posts
yah i was afraid it was to late...its one thing when it is slipping a bit but when its not moving its likely wore past adjustment fix.

Shouldnt be to hard to replace
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is a couple screws on the side of the engine case for adjusting the clutch. The procedure is covered in the service manual ( link in my signature). If that doesn't help replacement of the clutch disc pack will be required.
Where can I find a disc pack? My searches only come up with individual plates at like 20-30 dollars each.

JT
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
40,682 Posts
Check prices on a wet clutch while your at it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
40,682 Posts
It's a Suzuki eiger motor.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
40,682 Posts
Did you actually watch them slip?
Go to any Suzuki dealer web site and look up that year eiger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,867 Posts
Check prices on a wet clutch while your at it.
Did you actually watch them slip?
This is a manual transmission, not a belt drive doorfx.

There is no separate wet clutch. However the clutch does run wet. Since it is wet, (engine oil bathed) you cannot open it up and watch it in action. The clutch pack is alternating drive and driven plates that are spring loaded together for engagement and disengaged when the shift lever is depressed. When they go bad the usual reason is two or more of the drive and driven plates are worn down enough where spring pressure cannot engage the drive and it slips.

How many plates are badly worn can only be determined by diss-assembly and measurement of individual plate thickness, replacing those that are below specs. Spring tension is often a culprit also. When a clutch is slipping it generates a lot of heat, that heat can weaken the springs that engage the clutch. Spring replacement may be necessary also. Aftermarket manual transmission clutch kits if available for this model are often are nothing more then stronger springs to provide a stronger engagement.

So do I replace just the drive plates or driven and drive plates? 6 drive and 5 driven... It's clear as mud.

JT
Only diss-assemble and measurement will answer that, Worst case is all 6 drive and 5 driven are worn below specs and the springs will need replacing too. There may be some wear on all plates just not enough to be below minimum specs. To rebuild to 100% of new condition would require changing any plate with some wear or changing all 11 plates


Servicing the clutch is not as difficult as it first appears. You will have to drain the oil, and remove the side cover of the engine to get to the clutch you may need to remove the clutch or in some cases service it installed. The service manual should cover that

Attaching a couple pictures of the manual clutch. Maybe we can educate Doorfx enough so he can at least ask questions that are applicable to your situation. (Picking on you Door <Grin>)

These are not pictures of your 400 ATV, however the operation and the similarity between these pictures and your atv will be very close. The exploded drawing shows a 7/6 plated clutch from a Ducati motorcycle. The other is cut-away from a Kawasaki engine.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: doorfx

·
Administrator
Joined
·
40,682 Posts
Sorry brain fart!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wyo_H1_Cat

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,867 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: doorfx

·
Banned
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This is a manual transmission, not a belt drive doorfx.

There is no separate wet clutch. However the clutch does run wet. Since it is wet, (engine oil bathed) you cannot open it up and watch it in action. The clutch pack is alternating drive and driven plates that are spring loaded together for engagement and disengaged when the shift lever is depressed. When they go bad the usual reason is two or more of the drive and driven plates are worn down enough where spring pressure cannot engage the drive and it slips.

How many plates are badly worn can only be determined by diss-assembly and measurement of individual plate thickness, replacing those that are below specs. Spring tension is often a culprit also. When a clutch is slipping it generates a lot of heat, that heat can weaken the springs that engage the clutch. Spring replacement may be necessary also. Aftermarket manual transmission clutch kits if available for this model are often are nothing more then stronger springs to provide a stronger engagement.



Only diss-assemble and measurement will answer that, Worst case is all 6 drive and 5 driven are worn below specs and the springs will need replacing too. There may be some wear on all plates just not enough to be below minimum specs. To rebuild to 100% of new condition would require changing any plate with some wear or changing all 11 plates


Servicing the clutch is not as difficult as it first appears. You will have to drain the oil, and remove the side cover of the engine to get to the clutch you may need to remove the clutch or in some cases service it installed. The service manual should cover that

Attaching a couple pictures of the manual clutch. Maybe we can educate Doorfx enough so he can at least ask questions that are applicable to your situation. (Picking on you Door <Grin>)

These are not pictures of your 400 ATV, however the operation and the similarity between these pictures and your atv will be very close. The exploded drawing shows a 7/6 plated clutch from a Ducati motorcycle. The other is cut-away from a Kawasaki engine.
Great info. Thanks. I have the manual downloaded. I'll get to work.

Thanks again,
JT
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top