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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
recently had an issue with my voltage regulator. changed it as well as installed a new yausa 20ah battery. voltage is great now and charging as it should. however!!!...i cant figure out why the "efi" has suddenly began flashing? ive done the jumper wire and it keeps displaying 00. my tps was out of calibration so i adjusted that back to center. im just about to my limit on patients with this thing. so maybe one of you can help me? ive read post after post after post this forum is awesome for info but i cant seem to find what im lookin for this time.
 

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efi flashing is like a "check engine" light on a car. It could be quite a few different things.
The most common is a low battery charge. Mine flash efi also.
A good battery tender or conditioner is the way to go. a low amp unit.
You can purchase a male adapter plug for a battery tender jr. and plug it into the outlet on your pod as it's 'live" all the time. Thats what I do.
The only time my quads flash is when i forgot to plug them in. They need a charge every 2 weeks or less, there is an electrical draw in the pod. If it gets really low on voltage or there is a loose connection, the screen will go blank except it will flash "volt"
You have a new battery but even new batteries need to be topped off with a charger even when they are new.
I'm 95% positive a charge will eliminate your efi flash.
 

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Also read here several times that the EFI flashing will take place if you turn the key on before you change the run stop switch from stop to run. I've never seen it since i rarely if ever use the run/stop switch.
 

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That is true^^^
 

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same here

recently had an issue with my voltage regulator. changed it as well as installed a new yausa 20ah battery. voltage is great now and charging as it should. however!!!...i cant figure out why the "efi" has suddenly began flashing? ive done the jumper wire and it keeps displaying 00. my tps was out of calibration so i adjusted that back to center. im just about to my limit on patients with this thing. so maybe one of you can help me? ive read post after post after post this forum is awesome for info but i cant seem to find what im lookin for this time.
the exact same thing happend to me,the mecanic think it could be a cut wire or a short somewhere but with no reason with the regulator...
 

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Mine did it cause some wires rubbed right by the ECU where the harness goes over the frame.


2009 550 H1 EFI (mine)
28" mega mayhems
Black stock wheels
snorkled
Racked rad
///airdam clutching
hid high beams
sealed actuator
no spark arestor

2006 400 manual(dads)
bone stock runnin strong

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
well my update is this... right where the stator wires come out of the case through the rubber grommet and turn up and out the wire rubbed on the case and shorted out causing the regulator to overheat and burn out. stator is at ricks electrics being tested just to be sure its ok. and of course another new regulator will be purchased
 

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Get back with us and the total cost. Pictures if you can would be nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
another update for those of you interested. the stator as well as the regulator/rectifier tested good at ricks electrics. i spent a good deal of time chatting with a tech about the "cat" electrical system with the suzuki motor. the stator is already a heavy duty stator from the factory putting out close to if not the most output of any atv on the market today. however the major downfall of the system is the wiring. the stock wire size from the stator all the way to the regulator is only 16gauge wire with a cheap 3 wire connector in a single housing with crimped connectors inside. definetly prone to failure after time. as some of you may know resistance in an electrical system causes heat. the more resistance the more heat is created and heat is an enemy to electrical systems. after a lengthy conversation with a tech at ricks electrics the outcome is this. he replaced the 16g wire from the stator with 14g wire (12g would'nt fit through the rubber grommet which comes through the case) and solderd a high grade weather tight connector on each of the 3 stator wires seperatly and sent me the adjoining 3 connectors of which i will solder on the new 3 seperate 14g wires i will install to the regulator. the regulator i replaced the stock one with is what ricks electrics (recommended) calls a "hot shot" reg/rectifier. it is a mosfett style with longer cooling fins (6mm longer than stock)which gives better heat disipation and is built with better than standard diodes and stronger circuitry. some of you may not agree or may think its to complicated or think im wasting my time and $. to each his own i suppose. with shipping both ways the cost of testing and the cost of the 14g wire from the stator,three seperate hd connectors,a few feet of 14g wire to the reg/rec and the new regulator totals to less than $150. mind you i installed a replacement oe regulator from ricks which i returned for testing and even though it tested good ricks gave me credit $120 off the price of the new style which retails for for about $150 (so essential i only paid $30 for the new hd regulator). long and drawn out i know but there ya have it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes it definetly fixed the efi flashing as well as other issues. starting, idle and performance are all much better. the reg/rec is a"hot shot"one for a can-am. it works great!
 

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Finally fixed my problem and my suspicion where write, i have boughted a custom regulator when the EFI hapend and everybody told me it has nothing to do whit it.I bought an original arcticcat regulator and i dont have any EFI flash now. so buy an original and sell the custom, comeback with comments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
glad you got it fixed. my experience has not been good with a regular replacement. good luck with your fix. i hope it lasts for you. keep an eye on your voltage from time to time.
 

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yes it definetly fixed the efi flashing as well as other issues. starting, idle and performance are all much better. the reg/rec is a"hot shot"one for a can-am. it works great!
Where did you buy it and were the plugs the same?
 

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another update for those of you interested. the stator as well as the regulator/rectifier tested good at ricks electrics. i spent a good deal of time chatting with a tech about the "cat" electrical system with the suzuki motor. the stator is already a heavy duty stator from the factory putting out close to if not the most output of any atv on the market today. however the major downfall of the system is the wiring. the stock wire size from the stator all the way to the regulator is only 16gauge wire with a cheap 3 wire connector in a single housing with crimped connectors inside. definetly prone to failure after time. as some of you may know resistance in an electrical system causes heat. the more resistance the more heat is created and heat is an enemy to electrical systems. after a lengthy conversation with a tech at ricks electrics the outcome is this. he replaced the 16g wire from the stator with 14g wire (12g would'nt fit through the rubber grommet which comes through the case) and solderd a high grade weather tight connector on each of the 3 stator wires seperatly and sent me the adjoining 3 connectors of which i will solder on the new 3 seperate 14g wires i will install to the regulator. the regulator i replaced the stock one with is what ricks electrics (recommended) calls a "hot shot" reg/rectifier. it is a mosfett style with longer cooling fins (6mm longer than stock)which gives better heat disipation and is built with better than standard diodes and stronger circuitry. some of you may not agree or may think its to complicated or think im wasting my time and $. to each his own i suppose. with shipping both ways the cost of testing and the cost of the 14g wire from the stator,three seperate hd connectors,a few feet of 14g wire to the reg/rec and the new regulator totals to less than $150. mind you i installed a replacement oe regulator from ricks which i returned for testing and even though it tested good ricks gave me credit $120 off the price of the new style which retails for for about $150 (so essential i only paid $30 for the new hd regulator). long and drawn out i know but there ya have it.
Did you replace the wire from engine to regulator/ rectifier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i purchased the reg/rec from ricks electrics. its from a can-am outlander 800. yes the plugs are exactly the same. best thing i can recommend is find a picture of the can-am regulator and you will see it has a seperate block with the diodes in it which is attached to the heat sink. the heat sink bolts exactly as the oem one does and i had to fabricate a small bracket to attach the black box with the diodes in it. yes i replaced all the original wires from the oem regulator to 14g. i pulled the wires from the reg connector and soldered the new wire in its place. dont just cut the wire and connect 14g to the 18g wire. that obviously defeats what you'll be trying to accomplish. it has to be 14g from end to end. any of you that are seriously interested in doing this and would like my help pm me and we can go from there.
 

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i purchased the reg/rec from ricks electrics. its from a can-am outlander 800. yes the plugs are exactly the same. best thing i can recommend is find a picture of the can-am regulator and you will see it has a seperate block with the diodes in it which is attached to the heat sink. the heat sink bolts exactly as the oem one does and i had to fabricate a small bracket to attach the black box with the diodes in it. yes i replaced all the original wires from the oem regulator to 14g. i pulled the wires from the reg connector and soldered the new wire in its place. dont just cut the wire and connect 14g to the 18g wire. that obviously defeats what you'll be trying to accomplish. it has to be 14g from end to end. any of you that are seriously interested in doing this and would like my help pm me and we can go from there.
I was just curious. I had no intention of splicing in larger wire half way. I was also curious because the regulators are supose to be matched with the stator and wasen't sure how different the two regulators are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i do not have the specs avail for the 2 regulators but the tech at ricks electrics that did the stator for me(can't remember his name) did the research and was 100% positive it would work just fine and it certainly does just that only better. MUCH cooler by at least 50%. ive taken alot of time posting about this topic and what ive done as well as the results to not be honest about all of this. and some may think its to complicated and not worth it.
 

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i do not have the specs avail for the 2 regulators but the tech at ricks electrics that did the stator for me(can't remember his name) did the research and was 100% positive it would work just fine and it certainly does just that only better. MUCH cooler by at least 50%. Ive taken allot of time posting about this topic and what Ive done as well as the results to not be honest about all of this. and some may think its to complicated and not worth it.
OK thanks. If it had positive results I wouldn't consider it a waste of time. Ill see what happens when I get mine back together and consider doing this myself. I'm an electrician and fix all my own cars and toys & have done much more complicated repairs than this.
 

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I have an 07 700 efi. Recently I had the same problems. It got to where battery was dead a bunch so I put a new battery in it and a regulator that I got off of eBay due to riding it and it showing volt. So far that problem is fixed but now after riding for 10 to 15 minutes it starts flashing efi. Runs fine with no issues when doing this . I checked codes and it had ec00. Checked tps and it was low. Fixed that, starts and idles much better but still throws efi after riding a little bit. i checked and it is charging 13.8 while idling. Unfortunately I'm stumped as obviously it has a problem but won't tell me what. Where are the wires coming out of the stator?
 
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