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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this sled about 4weeks ago and it runs great and is a ton of fun. The sleds temp gauge is now coming on though. Here are the details.

When I first got it I checked the coolant and it looked fine. I think I put the cap on wrong because a few days later I heard the cap hissing. I was done for the night and left it to cool off. The next day I looked at it and it was crooked, so I straightened it up. It was pretty empty, so I added some coolant.

Three weeks of riding went by with no issues.

Last weekend I rode the sled all day with 0 issues. It was warm too. I got back from the day of riding and put my cover on. About an hour later we decied to go out for a late night ride and half-way the temp light came on. I stopped immediately. It was 40 degrees out and the snow was hard.

We let it cool off and the light came on two more times on the way home. Each time it came on we pulled over and let it cool off.

I got home and jumped on the forums and did some searches. I also talked to a car mechanic friend about my situation. People said the hard packed snow and warm weather could cause this. People also mentioned getting water wetter and bleeding the system.

Tonight I bought water wetter and some prestone coolant and topped it off. I drove sown to my parents place parked on a steep snowbank and ran it wihtout the cap on. I checked on it ever few minutes and in about 20 minutes the light came on. I put a little more water wetter in it and the cap back on. I drove up hear and the coolant overflow was empty.

I drove it on another snow bank with lights and got a flashlight. It put some coolant and regualr old water in it. I was definately getting air bubbles, so this time I ran without the cap for like 5 minutes and put the cap back on. About 20-30 minutes later I noticed the light again. I cecked the coolant and it is fine.

It is like -5 degrees out, so I know this thing should not be over heating.

One thing I should mention is the sled always idles at like 3500 rpms--the guy i bought it from said he had the shop do that for him

I coolant overflow is bowling. Does this me the thermostat is working?

Thanks for the help.
 

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i'm no expert but sounds like you're on the right track
when it was overheating, could you tell if your heat exchangers were hot/warm at all?

if not, sounds like it's no circulating cooland you're just boiling off as the crankcase gets hot
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not check the heat exchangers yet, but I plan to in a few hours. That is one thing I think I missed. I called a local shop today to buy another thermostat and they said they think the thermostat is fine.

They told me to start it and if the bottom hose is hot then the thermostat is opening and working. I said every hose is hot...LOL.

They thought it was because the sled was not moving and just sitting there.

I checked the sled this morning and it look like the coolant was empty or down. I also noticed a real small spot of coolant--i kind think I spilled some in the dark last night.

This is my plan of attack: (anything wrong?)

Fill the coolant and move it to a steep spot.
Keep it running and take the cap off for a few minutes -- make sure it is burped.
Feel exchanges and see if they get hot --if not the coolant is not flowing to exchangers.
Feel the hose -- i know it is getting hot, but I might as well touch it.
Inspect for any coolant drops -- if I found those I got a hole!
Take it for a ride in some snow -- if it overheats, take the head off and inspect the o ring.

What do you think?
 

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Possibilities not mentioned above...

Check for coolant at the weep hole in the outer water pump housing. If you find coolant dripping, you have a bad water pump seal. I don't think this is where the coolant is going, because you would eventually find some dripping from the bellypan too. You haven't mentioned that yet.

Another place is a bad head o-ring. Piston goes down, sucks some coolant into combustion chamber. If the piston top looks too clean, and the other looks black, take the head of the 'clean' one off and inspect the o-ring. It's OK to re-use it if it's OK. Drain some coolant first to prevent coolant from spilling all over the place.

I had an o-ring go bad too. Coolant got sucked into the combustion chamber, vaporized into steam, steam cleaned the carbon off the piston dome, and eventually left throught the exhaust pipe.

On the compression stroke, air would get forced into the water jacket, pressures ended up higher than the psi rating of the reservoir cap, and some coolant escaped out the overflow hose too.

If one of your pistons looks like it's been steam cleaned, probably a bad head o-ring.

To check the reservoir cap, add a bottle to catch coolant from the drain hose coming off the reservoir.

Once you've got this problem sorted out & solved, consider a proper temerature gauge for your instrument cluster. You can keep your eye on it and avert an overheat in low snow conditions or also avoid serious overheat damage for any reason. They're a lot better than an idiot light, because they let you know what's going on well before trouble goes too far.

:chug:
 

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One other thing, if the exchangers do not heat up don't bother going for a ride. You either have an air lock (the rear of the sled may also need to be raised to get rid of it) or your water pump impeller is slipping on the drive shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok,
So i filled the coolant and it did not take that much. I let it run about 5 minutes took it for a circle. I parked it on an incline and opened the cap. It was starting to bubble.

I felt the heat exchangers in the back and they seemed warm. Let them sit longer and they got warmer.

I felt the hose and the bottom one was warm, but the top one was hot. Not sure what that means.

I moved the led a bit and did see a tiny coolant spot. I think it may have come from before.

I went to take it for a ride and the belt just started slippin like crazy. I could not even move.


Could a loose belt cause me to overheat and then get me to over react?
 

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Doubtful, the slipping belt is likely a result of coolant flying around. Coolant is very slippery, you may be able to restore the belt by wiping it and the clutches down with alcohol.
Did you have a look at the pistons?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok,
I put a new belt on and I am going to take it for a ride. Should a snowmobile overheat when just idling? My sled does idle high at like 3k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just took it out and it was fine on the lake cranking on it, but once I went up a hill the light came on. We let it cool off and it went back home fine.

Both hoses where hot.
The exchangers are both hot too.
We took the thermo out and it was still hot so it was still open. It was closed before I finshed my beer.

I am going outside with the guys to take the head off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The head is off and the cyls look fine. They both look brown ontop of the pistons walls are smooth. This only leaves the water pump I guess. Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think it is fixed!

I called the dealer today and they mainly said the do not think it is the water pump, becuase they do not see many that actually fail. He also said my symptoms do not sound like a water pump.

This is what i did:
I put the orings on and they had a hard time staying, so used a tad of high temp rtv to keep them in place. I put the head on and my torque wrench only goes down to 25, so they may be a tad tighter.

I then put a bottle of redline in the sled and a 50/50 mix of prestone.

I decided to use my friends cap, because people mentioned that a cap can cause this. I immedaitly noticed that the cap fit a little tighter.

We burped it and took it for a ride. I checked the coolant and noticed it was not boiling like it was last night. We kept riding and the light did not come on.

Not sure what it was, but I would imagine it was one of the following:
RTV and a tighter torque creating a better sqeeuze on the o ring
Redline with a know good coolant mix
Tighter fitting cap
 

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A loose cap/bad seal wouldn't allow the coolant system to raise pressure, keeping the boilign point LOW which you are seeing. Plus if the cap was not sealed you prolly started to steam the underhood and probably mist move of everything with a fine mist of coolant/steam.

similar thing happened on my truck once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The cap had to be the issue. It was 40 plus and I put 100 miles on it. Sometimes it is the simple things.
 

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I found that same problem with my 800 twin. I thought it was air locked and thermostat was also questioned. I found that the cap was not holding pressure. I also found that the coolant tank top was elongated. I read elsewhere that this is fairley common if you have overheated the sled at any point. I did that last season when I spit a stud through front extruder. I was able to reshape my filler neck with hose clamp when tank/resavoir was hot. I just cranked the clamp tight and let cool. New cap was installed also. No problems since.
 
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