Setting Float Height
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Ordering Fuel shutoff and carb parts
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I was just contemplating going down stair and looking at my carb again. Too cold in the garage or putting it off? Too cold. We just went up from -10 to -4 with freezing rain. Good thing I cleared the snow off the cars, lifted the wiper blades and made sure there was no snow around the wiper mechanism before the ice came 
Too cold. I think ill go and prep dinner than have a cold beer
I just figured out what was under Farrix's last post. I gather that's what you've done to your ATV? Wow. Well done. Way more than I would do for the hours I use it in a year.
Merry Christmas.
Too cold. I think ill go and prep dinner than have a cold beer
I just figured out what was under Farrix's last post. I gather that's what you've done to your ATV? Wow. Well done. Way more than I would do for the hours I use it in a year.
Merry Christmas.
I forgot to mention. I did try setting the float level but I'm baffled with this part of the instructions. "when the little spring button isn't compressed." When i tilt the carb over and it touches the jet, the inner spring starts to compress. If i go further the jet starts to push down. At this point the float is way above 17mm. maybe as far as 25mm. If i bend the tab to correct for this its wayyyyyy bent.
When I pulled this apart and while cleaning I'm pretty sure I didn't change the original placement of the float tab by much if any. So I'm still trying to figure this out. But, time for dinner.
Have a good one.
When I pulled this apart and while cleaning I'm pretty sure I didn't change the original placement of the float tab by much if any. So I'm still trying to figure this out. But, time for dinner.
Have a good one.
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For a motorcycle but you get the gist.
“Drain the float bowl to check for water or other impurities. The float level is the first thing that needs to be checked when tuning your carb. If the level is too high, it can cause a rich condition, too low and it can cause a lean condition. If it's not set correctly, any other adjustments you make may have to be redone.
Arctic Cat would love to sell you their gauge to check the height. But get a clear hose and attach it to the carb drain valve at the bottom and tape it up to the side of your carb. Put the bike on the center stand or otherwise make it level. Use an auxiliary gas can above the carb so it will continue to dump fuel. Or use the vacuum line and suck on it to open the petcock valve. Open the carb drain valve. Get a gauge or ruler and measure right where the carb body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose. Don't move the hose after you open the drain, or it could cause the reading to be high.
Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about .08" variance).If it needs to be adjusted, and the carb is already off the bike, the method in the factory manual is the easiest way to set the float height. It can also be done without removing it from the bike.
After disconnecting the gas and draining the fuel out, you'll need to rotate the carb and take the four screws off the bottom of the float bowl and remove it. Then push the pin out of the float boss and gently remove the float and float valve. The float valve will be hanging loosely on the float by a very thin wire that slips over a metal tang on the float. Bending this tang on the float (not the wire on the float valve), will raise or lower your float level. Just a small bend makes a big difference in the level, so it's best to make minute movements here.
Before bending anything, visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve and spray some carb cleaner and compressed air in the valve seat, to make sure nothing is blocking it open. Also see that the plastic float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Then check the level again and rebend if needed.”
“Drain the float bowl to check for water or other impurities. The float level is the first thing that needs to be checked when tuning your carb. If the level is too high, it can cause a rich condition, too low and it can cause a lean condition. If it's not set correctly, any other adjustments you make may have to be redone.
Arctic Cat would love to sell you their gauge to check the height. But get a clear hose and attach it to the carb drain valve at the bottom and tape it up to the side of your carb. Put the bike on the center stand or otherwise make it level. Use an auxiliary gas can above the carb so it will continue to dump fuel. Or use the vacuum line and suck on it to open the petcock valve. Open the carb drain valve. Get a gauge or ruler and measure right where the carb body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose. Don't move the hose after you open the drain, or it could cause the reading to be high.
Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about .08" variance).If it needs to be adjusted, and the carb is already off the bike, the method in the factory manual is the easiest way to set the float height. It can also be done without removing it from the bike.
After disconnecting the gas and draining the fuel out, you'll need to rotate the carb and take the four screws off the bottom of the float bowl and remove it. Then push the pin out of the float boss and gently remove the float and float valve. The float valve will be hanging loosely on the float by a very thin wire that slips over a metal tang on the float. Bending this tang on the float (not the wire on the float valve), will raise or lower your float level. Just a small bend makes a big difference in the level, so it's best to make minute movements here.
Before bending anything, visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve and spray some carb cleaner and compressed air in the valve seat, to make sure nothing is blocking it open. Also see that the plastic float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Then check the level again and rebend if needed.”
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