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2004 Arctic Cat 400
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Ok, if you have a dealership nearby I wouldn't buy a "rebuild kit" for that carb myself. I have a 2004 400 FIS similar to yours, 8500 miles on the clock and unknown hours of abuse and nonsense.

You can buy a fuel shutoff/petcock online from alot of places, I've never had an OEM one go bad before but OEM isn't unreasonably priced ($65 cad I think?) I wouldn't rebuild, just replace it and the seal. fairly easy to do, drain and remove tank, unbolt, replace, rebolt, done.

Your carb sounds like it's probably just dirty and needs cleaned, if you've watched a bunch of videos etc, you've read alot of guides, and you can also read the guide that I have on this site pinned (no pics just words) you're off to a great start, I would definitely read the guide i've got here because it talks about ensuring you don't strip the screws, or wreck the carb if you do strip a screw.

Most common mistake made during carb work, stripped screw, followed by drilling it out, don't make that mistake.

For "rebuilding" the inside, the couple of parts you may need to replace, the bottom "o ring" gasket, the float valve, and MAYBE the needle. The jets usually just need cleaned with a fine pin/staple and some chemical. Rarely you may need to replace the diaphragm spring in the top, or the diaphragm IF it has a hole/tear in it, typically not common.


Float Valve $50 (there are difference sizes over the years, be careful to get the right one definitely replace this while you are in there)
Needle (unlikely to need replaced I'm on my OEM needle still
MAYBE diaphragm.
MAYBE $30 Diaphragm spring
MAYBE base seal (IF it's leaking)

You SHOULD buy a 1/4" plastic inline fuel filter from a Gregg distributors or similar, a decent quality one. The Canadian Tire plastic fuel filters almost burned my machine down twice, don't buy them utter trash.

Replace your fuel lines with modern ethanol safe lines if they haven't been, typically 1/4 and I clamp them a bit tighter. the OEM fuel lines rot out with ethanol gas and start shedding rubber chunks into the carb to cause extra cleaning.

Where in Canada are you located? I may be able to offer suggestions on supply locations.


As you mentioned make a note of how many turns the pilot screw is from all the way in before removing it. mark the starting point, turn it in all the way counting rotations, mark the finish point, then remove it for cleaning.

Sorry I can't offer better advice on kits and such, just never ran a carb kit in my 400, just replace the float valve every couple years, and keep riding it.
 

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2004 Arctic Cat 400
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Oof might be better to order online then, worth a call to price.

If a dynojet kit comes with a new float valve etc it might just be worth the buy online.

Just an FYI 91+octane will actually reduce your power quite a bit vs 87 octane.

Unless you advance the timing or increase the compression that machine will run better on 87 octane, idle more stable and make more torque and power. I gained mph when I swapped to 87 octane from 94 I used to run.
 
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2004 Arctic Cat 400
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@JRM7997 Ok, lets identify your model quick.
Is it long with a dump box? (Dump Box is TBX model)
Does it have independent rear suspension (FIS Fully Independent Suspension)
Does it have a solid rear axle? (no additional FIS)
Does it have Modular Multi Piece Rack System? (MRP - Modular/Multi-Rack Pack)

With a quick search 0470-445 is the P/N for almost all 2004 ATV's and i believe all 2004 400 ATV's (MRP, FIS, TBX, TRV)

Your Vin will start with a 4 (4wd) UF 04 (2004) ATV then a bunch of other numbers.
 

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In 2004 there is only 1 concern really when ordering parts, be careful with your suspension components, 2004 was a split year on A-Arm design, early 2004 had the 2003 400 style, late 2004 had the 2004-2013 style, I believe in the fiche it says (VIN Ending is 225000 and Up)
 

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TRV is the two up version, the wheel base is longer, has extra foot-rests for the second person, 2004 the TRV only came in the 500 I believe, 2005 the TRV came in the 400. If you had a TRV you would have about 8-10" longer frame, longer wheel base, extra foot rests, and a backrest. I've always wanted to find a 2005 TRV chassis with a torched motor, do a gear reduction and put my 400 engine into it.

just so you are aware the 400CC engine in 2004 is actually 375 or 376CC on paper. with a 0.5MM overbore it's a 381CC.
 

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Yeah, something as small as fine grain pepper can fudge a carb so quickly. Glad you found a potential cause inside, worse when you see nothing.
 
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