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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So ive been working on restoring/protecting my '00 500. I took the control arms off, popped the ball joints out, sanded/primed/painted the control arms and started pressing the new ball joints in last night. 3 out of 4 joints slipped in about 1/2 way without a problem, then I pressed them in the rest of the way, installed the snap-ring, done.

one of them however, I was able to just 'drop in' with no friction at all. The fit is pretty tight, but still had lax enough tolerance that i was able to just slip it into the socket. The ball joint will spin in the socket pretty easily. Not sure what the problem is. I expected a fight on my hands to get these things installed and instead all 4 took me about 8 minutes.

When sanding, I did not sand the inside of the socket on the control arms. I knew that would make the socket looser if I did.

Any thoughts? Is this normal? Since the ball joint can spin in the C/A socket, im worried it will get worse when riding. Its the upper control arm so when reassembled it will be under pressure from the weight of the quad, but turning may still cause it to spin.

One thought I had was to put a few drops of locktite in the socket and then reinstall the balljoint. This is my first time though this process so I wanted to ask some experts.

Any thoughts? (I am using EPI ball joints) Do I need a new control arm?
 

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your actually suppose to use sleeve retaining loctite when changing ball joints (green).

If you want it to be perfect yes replace the arm....but me id be more worried about those garbage ball joints you put in....If i were you id be buying a real good helmet you will need it.
 
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you will need to use a product call sleeve retainer, you can get it at any auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
your actually suppose to use sleeve retaining loctite when changing ball joints (green).

If you want it to be perfect yes replace the arm....but me id be more worried about those garbage ball joints you put in....If i were you id be buying a real good helmet you will need it.
I had bought a set of 'All Balls' ball joints and only after the fact found out how bad they were from other riders. EPI joints got mugh higher ratings and very little negative said about them. They were the more expensive, but all the reviews said OEM equivalent. Thats why I went with them. My friend uses them with his bearcat and beats on it far more than I do and has never had a problem.

Thanks for the info. Ill pick up some sleeve retainer tonight.
 

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im very sure that epi sources them from allballs

EPI Heavy Duty Ball Joint Failure - both uppers on the first ride!


not to mention ive seen a guy get one and it was exact same as oem but more money...he called and they said yes its made to their spec, he asked what the difference was then.....empty silence...

Honestly oem is the way to go, ive never seen a cat one fail
 

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I Also have A little lose balljoint as he said I can spin it and there is a small amount of movement where the bolt goes threw the groove both the balljoint and the bolt are new OEM it is the lower should I use the sleeve or the locktite
 

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loctite makes sleeve retainer...its a green loctite basically
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im very sure that epi sources them from allballs

EPI Heavy Duty Ball Joint Failure - both uppers on the first ride!


not to mention ive seen a guy get one and it was exact same as oem but more money...he called and they said yes its made to their spec, he asked what the difference was then.....empty silence...

Honestly oem is the way to go, ive never seen a cat one fail

Picked up some sleeve retainer last night. That did the trick. Thanks for the advise all.

In regards to that video, yes I have actually seen that thread when I was looking for a reason not to buy EPI. There are a lot of people complaining that they are having ball joint failures on Polaris bikes. Polaris does not use the same ball joints as AC. Also, the most I could find was one reliable video/comment about a much larger AC that had EPI ball joints in which the post slid out of the knuckle, but did not actually break. I know that AC uses the same ball joints for many of their models and that the breaking that is happening is coming from 700+cc bikes with tall tires and mods. Does that show a poor design? Possibly. I know that AC stuck with the same from diff's for many of their models 500cc and above and that 700's and 800's sometimes have front diff covers blow off due to the extra torque. The later models had more power, but AC didn't necessarily make HD parts for them. The 2010 AC 700 H1 TRV uses the same ball joints as my '00 500 manual. I could see how we might run into some failures on the bigger cats. More stress, more weight, harder use (possibly.)... since those bikes used the same parts, if they had an HD ball joint marketed for the 700 H1, I would have bought it for my 500.

What im getting at is that ive yet to find any evidence that EPI makes a bad ball joint for my Cat. Please find me some info if im crusin for a bruisin. I would like to know im putting myself in extreme danger.

On the other side, look up All Balls Ball Joint failures on google. You will get pages of results. I did not send back the Allballs parts and after receiving the EPI parts, they (seem) to be built with a totally different design down to the sleeve and shaft. Not that it always matters, but the EPI parts are even noticeably heavier than allballs... though denser metal sometimes can be more brittle.

For now, I felt that I was adequately objective with my research and I feel confident in the product.
 

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Well ive broke an allballs one in 100 miles i know they suck....ive yet to break an oem one...and actually none of the 10+ friends with cats have either and if it can be broke i will usually find it. Oem is the best and thats proven. Ive ran tracks,25s,27s,28s,29.5s,30s and now 29.5 outlaw 2s, no lift, 2 inch lift and now a 1.5 inch lift and i never worry about my oem ball joints
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well ive broke an allballs one in 100 miles i know they suck....ive yet to break an oem one...and actually none of the 10+ friends with cats have either and if it can be broke i will usually find it. Oem is the best and thats proven. Ive ran tracks,25s,27s,28s,29.5s,30s and now 29.5 outlaw 2s, no lift, 2 inch lift and now a 1.5 inch lift and i never worry about my oem ball joints
The old OEM's I removed were pretty worn, just rattling around in the socket, and still were holding up somehow. I agree. My quad has 6500 miles on it. My guess is that it was never done before I owned it. Ill just get OEM next time. Keep your fingers crossed.
 

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The old OEM's I removed were pretty worn, just rattling around in the socket, and still were holding up somehow. I agree. My quad has 6500 miles on it. My guess is that it was never done before I owned it. Ill just get OEM next time. Keep your fingers crossed.
I hope they hold up for yah man i do...but do yourself a favor and keep a lid on just in case, dont want to see any members getting hurt
 
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