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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i adjusted the slides so they are equal. One was off compared to other...Now it runs decent til i get on it hard for about 15 seconds and then alll of a sudden starts sputtering and cutting out and let off gas and just cruise and has some backfiring almost like it fouled plug...Then be like that for little bit and then clears up til i get on it hard again and starts again like it fouled a plug...Backfires and just doesnt go like it should..

Was fine before i adjusted carb slides/cables. Has correct slack.. What does the carb switches do that are connected on the carbs? They have any corcern to this random backfires and poor performance...I rather have my bog back then this and my bog.....

Air screw is out 1 1/2 turns and carbs are clean.....Slides are equal.....Or are they suppose to be off from each other.....Also is the jetting and stuff stay same for both cylinders since i heard pto side runs hotter then clutch side??????

I have book for it and beating my head into wall gettin this thing to run........

gas lines are new and filter is flowing like it should. Gas is new.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This sled runs fine here and there.....After it starts sputtering and backfiring and running crappy...will be like that for a bit and then clear out and be fine til another good burst of throttle.....Also the headlight flickers off once in great while for a split sec but doesnt effect motor...Prolly loose headlight connection......

But could a CDI box have interminet spurts....or stator?? Gonna try carb switch this afternoon but it idles alright after i play with choke a few times when warming up and giving it gas...

But this high end and backfiring just started after i adjusted the slides to open evenly....and still has slack in throttle (thumb)
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (glenn @ Jan 26 2007, 10:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
This sled runs fine here and there.....After it starts sputtering and backfiring and running crappy...will be like that for a bit and then clear out and be fine til another good burst of throttle.....Also the headlight flickers off once in great while for a split sec but doesnt effect motor...Prolly loose headlight connection......

But could a CDI box have interminet spurts....or stator?? Gonna try carb switch this afternoon but it idles alright after i play with choke a few times when warming up and giving it gas...

But this high end and backfiring just started after i adjusted the slides to open evenly....and still has slack in throttle (thumb)[/b]

Check your wiring / connections down by the recoil..............pay special attention to the ground wire.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zr sled head @ Jan 26 2007, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (glenn @ Jan 26 2007, 10:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This sled runs fine here and there.....After it starts sputtering and backfiring and running crappy...will be like that for a bit and then clear out and be fine til another good burst of throttle.....Also the headlight flickers off once in great while for a split sec but doesnt effect motor...Prolly loose headlight connection......

But could a CDI box have interminet spurts....or stator?? Gonna try carb switch this afternoon but it idles alright after i play with choke a few times when warming up and giving it gas...

But this high end and backfiring just started after i adjusted the slides to open evenly....and still has slack in throttle (thumb)[/b]

Check your wiring / connections down by the recoil..............pay special attention to the ground wire.
[/b][/quote]

Check the connections at your coils as well.
 

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When I had similar problem it was the stator. Runs ok then sputters backfires, stalls. A few minutes later runs ok for a while again. Eventually it will just die and not start at all.
 

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Are your carbs set 100% to what the factory specs are? ie. carb sync, main jets, pilot jets, needle clip possition and air screw? We need to have a starting point.
When out narrow down when the sled acts up. Ride at 1/4 to half. OK? Ride at 1/2 to just above half. OK? Then try full open. OK? Where the backfireing and fuel fouling is happening will help us try to steer you in the right direction.

The wiring on your carbs are safety stop switches. The best thing for you to do is add a little jumper wire in the harness to eliminate those switches. Those switches will kill your motor off idle. They are connected to your throttle lever. If the carb slides are up and the throttle lever is not depressed the motor will die for your safety. Probably not the prob. Sounds like you have a rich condition to me. If you can also, take a picture of your plugs. Let us see what is giong on in your engine.

Don't get frustrated, I know it is easy for me to say but, most sledders have been where you are and have made it through it. The reward for getting your sled dialled in is a good one IMO.

Get back to us.

Later SPDFREEK

P.S. When did this start to happen?
 

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did you put your ignition bypass plug in and try that,do some runs at one multiple different rpms pulling the plugs and checking the color,did you check the synch of your carbs when slides are exiting out the top of the carb,it is running which is good you just have to find out if its fuel or electrical that is the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
sled was rode about 200 miles about a month ago...Had a boggin problem out of corners...would have to feather throttle, was like 0-1/2 or more throttle it would be boggy then finally go. Dealt with that...But i took carbs off and adjusted the slides with the cable adjusters to what the book says...Has stock jetting and 1 1/2 turns on air screw..im at roughly see level. mild winters. in MI.

It rode fine for the first 15 minutes cruisin at like 30 got on it a few times hard to like 80ish and backed off. Then got on it again hard and almost like it was missin on one cylinder and just didnt want to go anymore, just flatlined. slowed down alittle and starting backfiring out of exhaust and maybe intake too couldnt tell. Run identical to a fouled plug.. On the right cylinder only it seems. Has fouled plugs on that side when warmin up before but maybe like 3 in the last 800 miles...All on warm up...

But the backfire will be bad and wont move worth crap and then minute goes by and just cruisin at like 20 limpin it home and it seemed to clear up and run great til i got on it hard again and started acting like it was on 1 cylinder again and slowed down and started backfiring and such the same way again...just cruise along again for a few and seems to run good again. Seems maybe the right one was tanish clean looking, But also thats the plug that gets changed more often......so hard to say..... and the left was wet and dark.. But the right cylinder is the one that fouls plugs on start up here and there.

Sorry for being a pain but if i cant get it figured out gonna have to park it for the year...Cant afford a service shop and i never had to take anything in before and dont wanna start now....

Like i said just started this after i adjusted slides......Are the slides suppose to be dead even or does one open sooner then the other..Cuz thats how it was. About a 1/4 inch.. Also does it matter on what carb goes to what cylinder??? Gonna check clip on needle also but it was fine before besides the little bog...
 

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Your carbs need to open at the same rate. Try if you can to make a wide open blast across a field. When and if it starts to caugh turn off the machine and coast to a stop. Pull the plug and check it. Is it wet? Is it all black? It should be a nice brown to tan colour. If it is all fuel fouled (black or wet) on one or both cylinders you need to find out what is causing all the fuel to load in to your carbs and in turn into your engine.

You need to see where in the throttle this is happening. It sounds to me like it is loading up at 3/4 to wide open. If that is the case you may have a loose main jet, a choke plunger not sealing 100% that bleeds with all that vacuum at WOT, possibly not probably a leeking inlet needle or miss adjusted floats they would mor likely be across the whole throttle range.

Check your plugs and if you have a bendable LED flashlight you can look down into your jugs and check your piston domes. My bet is they'll be clean as a whip=to much fuel. Sometimes a very large pain in the ass messing around with carbs but they are very predictable once you get the hang of them.

Get back to us.

SPDFREEK
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
anytime i get on it hard in a field now it does it. I did have a newer plug on left side and that is brownish and dryer... the older one i wiped off and cleaned with wire brush earlier is wet and black....Left side always.....But right side fouls plugs at times on start up.....I mean if i just drive it halfway normal and burp the throttle in motion he goes like a bat out of hell....Just little boggin off line and now this at more 3/4 to wot....when on straights....

Thanks for your help...Im gonna pull carbs all the way off and take in house and see if any of the jets came loose..But thats how it rode just a little bit ago..... If i drive it normal the backfirin and **** goes away like it burns the fuel back off plug maybe?????????
 

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yep go through the wiring too...mine had a chaffed wire in the harness and caused alot of problems, also, you may want to test your stator...could be that...sounds more electrical in nature than mechanical
 

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You've checked the throttle over ride system. If not look in the "pinned section" of the ZR/ZRT (this section) to bypass it.
From what you explained, the closest thing I have ever seen to this was bad spark plug wires and caps. We could see spark coming from the area where the wire meets the cap. A simple fix for us, it was on a 2000 ZR 600 so yours may need replacement (age wise) It's cheap so I would give that a try first. Backfiring out the exhaust is an ignition problem. Spark coming and going. That ground wire near your recoil, exhaust should be cleaned. I haven't heard of 99 ZR700 stators going bad. The 600's are a different story.
Eliminate all the easy stuff first; all connections, plug wires and caps, throttle system, ground wires. Then we'll go from there. Check compression also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright, another update...Took carbs off completely and took them inside..Cleaned everypart of it. All jets are tight and clean and clear to begin with but cleaned them again. The needle clip is in the center (middle) of the grooves. Prolly stock? Everything is good in carbs.

goin back outside again in a few and move crap out of way and check everything else....mentioned here. Be back in a few
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
now since the pistons move opposite to each other, is there a specific coil wire for each cylinder? seems to run same both ways.. Took it for a rip and so far its decent but need to get to field here in a hour or so...
I put back on my bypass plug also the throttle cables were topped out and now they are all the way to the bottom and still opens good and at same time. I did redo the spark plug wire ends and clipped off like 1/4 in off wires to its fresh and re put back on ends and see if it had corrosion inside them...Had to change fouled plug from earlier.

Also my luck, get it all together and damn recoil rope snaps.....Gotta love that..Thank god it starts nice. its its little shorter.LOL
 

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hey man I would take it out back and burn it !!!!

J/K I sure hope you get it running cause its snowing like a biotch and tomorrow you better be ready to ride !!!
 

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My ZR600EFI was doing the same type of stuff. I couldn't figure out what it was. I was convinced from the service manual that it was one of the sensors and I don't have the tester to read the codes so I took it into our local dealer. Turns out I had a faulty plug wire. The tech cleaned it up, put in new plugs, and $110 later I took it home. Got it out this morning and all the problems are gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
NEW update again.......Sled runs...Rips top end, no more top end bog to backfire, no more...Runs good mid to high end again....Rips.....But back to same old low end bog..Gotta mess with throttle to get it to go good on low end....But least it doesnt act like its a bucking bronco after a field rip......Ground is good, moved coil higher up out of heat area.. Carbs are now clean and so is filter......sometimes it goes good on low end but mostly bogging..... Any ideas on that now....Does the needle clip need to be in the Middle slit at sea level??? Or what controls low end probs....Carb switches are bypassed


Im ready to ride tomorrow just cant **** and get out of corners, gotta mess with throttle first....If belt is little to loose will that cause a bad low end bog???
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will check but that is a great idea, i almost was thinkin that when i was driving home, to figure out if it was floodin or leanin out...Gonna check that tomorrow otherwise runs killer now besides the ****ty low end crap.
 

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They are TM flatslides, and your low end problem might be clutch related, now that you have pretty much eliminated everything else. A spring is broken, a sticky clutch due to wear(5000 to 7000 miles is tops for a 9 tower clutch) bogging can be both carb or clutch. bogging can be alot of things, If I had to guess, it woundn't be a lean condition, but check your intake maniflods for cracks as this has happened before on some sleds,(every part of the rubber intake has to be inspected- between the carb and the cylinder)
 
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