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how much is a gallon of ams oil, blue marble, or klotz, help.........
thankx, cody
 

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I'm trying this stuff. Bought it at Menards of all places, for under $20.00. You can even use a coupon. :thumbsup: My thought, as long as you clean the exhaust valves, check your ratio, any oil will work.
Tried the Blue Marble, too much money for no reason, my .02.
 

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Yup! With no snow, and the sled is the garage, I can pull the exhaust and valves off in about 15 min.
I learned not to count on what the oil states it can do, rather than just checking things out by tearing into the
motor.

I have 3 Poo 600 touring sleds with over 5K miles, and use, get this, Wal-Mart TCW-3 oil in those. Under $10 a gallon for that. Yup, they have exhaust valves. Clean them about every 1K miles. Never foul a plug, never
seized, run strong.

Oil doesn't matter, maintenance matters.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (geofeinstein @ Jan 11 2007, 11:12 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Yup! With no snow, and the sled is the garage, I can pull the exhaust and valves off in about 15 min.
I learned not to count on what the oil states it can do, rather than just checking things out by tearing into the
motor.

I have 3 Poo 600 touring sleds with over 5K miles, and use, get this, Wal-Mart TCW-3 oil in those. Under $10 a gallon for that. Yup, they have exhaust valves. Clean them about every 1K miles. Never foul a plug, never
seized, run strong.

Oil doesn't matter, maintenance matters.[/b]

Oh boy, DO NOT USE A TC-W3 ONLY RATED OIL IN A SNOWMOBILE! Holy crap, sure you will have very nice clean valves and combustion chambers, but its what you can't see that is killing your engine. That is the ring land area, kinda important! A TC-w3 oil is ashless, it contains no detergents, but more rust inhibitors than you will ever need. Due to the lack of detergents it burns clean, but does not clean the ringland area. What happens is excess carbon builds in the ringland area, in time your piston will not be able to transfer heat from the piston, to the ring, then over to the cylinder wall. TC-W3 oils do not contain detergents because in a marine application, ringland deposits are unlikely due to the low rpm, constant rpm and constant supply of cold coolant. Also all those factors make plug fouling more of an issue as well, an ashless tc-w3 is less likely to foul a plug then a low ash API TC oil, but doesn't mean its fits in a snowmobile application, unless you never exceed 6500rpm's, always ride in loose snow, and hold the throttle at a realitively constant rpm. Again do not use a tc-w3 only oil!

At the very minimal even if your a cheap bastard use an oil with an API TC rating, even if combined with a tc-w3 rating, best is an api tc only oil. API TC is low ash, contains detergents, much less rust inhibitors(its not a boat, don't need it) and will do a much much better job maintaining the internal workings of your engine then a tc-w3 only oil.

Penzoil makes a good multi purpose tc-w3/api tc oil, as well as a good api tc only oil. Their own testing however shows that thier api tc only oil outperforms their multi purpose tc-w3/api tc oil in regards to ringland deposits, but the multi purpose oil will work fine in your avg. trail sled, still the api tc only is a much better choice.

Ski-Doo strictly prohibits the use of a tc-w3 oil, as the single ring design fast tracks ring land deposits, the dual ring in the suzuki motor will last longer, but will suffer an eventual failure and will be down on power the majority of its span using a tc-w3 oil.
 
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