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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am all new to this and i have a 94 zr 580. It has been running fine for the last week until last night. I was crusing down the trail and lost all power, it will not go anywhere. When i came to a stop the engine stopped and died. After a few min.s of pondering on what it could be i tried to start it back up and it did. Not very well though, it would not get ablove 1,800 RPMS and sounds funny, not normal and some backfires. It will not spin the track so I had to get towed out of the woods (let me tell ya, I am glad I have friends that are willing oto come find me at 9 pm). I am afraid to try and start it back up because maybe i will cause damage to it? ANyone know anyhting please let me know..
 

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Is this sled the EFI with the battery? If so I wish you luck. A buddy had a similar problem and it was an electrical issue. I've encountered such 'gremlins' when I have had a bad clutch, overheating, etc. Bad gas not an issue is it?
 

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Did you do all the basic checks? What have you looked at so far?

Plugs, is the spark, are they fouled?
Compresson, what is it reading?
Could you think your fuel line is frozen causing your sled to stall?
Did your lights work after you started it again?

We need more information dude, we really cannot help you with the info you provided....first thing to check is your plugs, take them off and tell use the condition they are in....if you can post pics that would be good.
 

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First off, check for spark!

To me, it sounds like a piston may have gone down, explaining the loss in power and dying on a stop. If I had to guess, when you started back up and it was running really rough, you were probably getting it to fire on 1 side.

If you don't have a compression tester, pull the plugs out and put your thumb over the plug hole. Have a buddy pull the sled over. If your thumb gets blown off the hole, your compression is there. If your thumb just sits there, you've got internal trouble. Check both sides for a comparison.

Hopefully this isn't the case, but it wouldn't surprise me either. The 580 was a good motor, but was certainly no stranger to chunking a piston now and then. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nunavut_Crossfire @ Jan 18 2007, 02:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Did you do all the basic checks? What have you looked at so far?

Plugs, is the spark, are they fouled?
Compresson, what is it reading?
Could you think your fuel line is frozen causing your sled to stall?
Did your lights work after you started it again?

We need more information dude, we really cannot help you with the info you provided....first thing to check is your plugs, take them off and tell use the condition they are in....if you can post pics that would be good.[/b]

As for the plugs there still is spark. the fuel lins are not frozen i do not think and the lights did work after i restarted it. I am borrowing a compression tester tom. so i will let you know that the compression is then. thank you very much everyone that has responded so far. It sucks when you spend 1,500 for a sled and now this happens.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Wicked King @ Jan 18 2007, 02:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
If you don't have a compression tester, pull the plugs out and put your thumb over the plug hole. Have a buddy pull the sled over. If your thumb gets blown off the hole, your compression is there. If your thumb just sits there, you've got internal trouble. Check both sides for a comparison.[/b]
Make sure you have the plug on the other cylinder when doing this...you'll be able to tell if one cylinder went down or has less compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well if it not one thing its the other... getting ready to test the compression and the first pull, the pull cord snapped. didnt even pull a foot of rope and that went. this sled has become a nitmare for me now, it was good until now. i am tring to replace the cord but am not really sure on how to. so far the only way that i have seen is to pull the whole engine because there is a bolt that is holding the case to the stator on the bottom. So i took the engine out and now have this aluminumn plate on the bottom that has 2 bolts and looks like two inset screws. the bolts i have been able to get off, no problem but the hex inset screws are a differnt story. are they reverse thread or not? I have been tring to get them off for the last 30-45 mins and they are not budging. i am stuck with tring to get this stupid cover off so i can pull the cord to check the compression. thanks for the info guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After you get pissed off I guess that you should drink 3 beers really fast and then go back to the project. The little S.O.B.'s came off after 3 beers and some tapping on the plate. I put the new cord in and fixed that all up, so were good to go there. I put the compression checker on one side and got a reading of 115-117 somewhere around there, and the other side I got a big fat 0. So now what does this mean? I am assuming that the side with zero compression is shot. Is there a way to rebuild it? and if so how?
 

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Pull the heads and jugs off and take pics of everything, including pistons. You will get lots of help on here, and I may have some parts. You wont hurt anything taking it apart, and someone will have to, you have the fun. Exploratory surgery!
 

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I will throw in my .02 cents. Those motors are a time bomb. The piston skirts break off. If I was you Id replace both pistons. How many miles are on it???
 

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This may be a lil late but when removing the jugs watch and becareful not to drop any metal, ie pieces of ring or what not into the case as that can be big trouble after reassembly, stuff a clean rag around the rods before removing the jugs copletely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (helgy @ Jan 20 2007, 01:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Pull the heads and jugs off and take pics of everything, including pistons. You will get lots of help on here, and I may have some parts. You wont hurt anything taking it apart, and someone will have to, you have the fun. Exploratory surgery![/b]
The top picture is the one with no compression, if you look at the top left side you can see a chunck of it mimssing. The second picture is the good one, the top is not smooth all the way it has some rough spots. The third picture shows the tops with the right side being the bad side. And the last picture is a close up of the broken piston. I have to run out and get a breaker bar to take the jugs off because mine broke last night (THANK YOU CRAFTSMAN)....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i got the juggs off. now what do i do? where should i take them? who should i order pistons through? i am lost as whatto do now. new pistons or someones old pistons?
 

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Take the jugs to any machine shop for at least honing, but if its bad they may want to bore it as well. When they are done, they tell you what the new bore size is.

Order some pistons (wiesco comes to mind but there are lots of companies now). Get the whole kit (rings, pistons, wrist pin, bearing, clips) and a top end gasket kit.

Should be able to get it all done for $500 +/- $100

$1500 seems like alot for that sled.

I wish I could have gotten that for my 95 ZR580 carbed (with 8000+ miles though).
 

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You can't get your cylinders bored and expect to use them. If the nicasil plating is scored and peeled then you have to get the cylinder replated, or replace it with a used one. Any time you install new rings you want to have the cylinder resurfaced, which means to have a fresh crosshatch put on the cylinder walls. The most common way of doing that is with a ball hone, but some people say you can do it by hand with scotchbrite pads, but if I were you I would take to your dealer to have them inspect it and do the resurfacing. If you buy your piston kits from the dealer they may not even charge you for the ten seconds it takes to run the ball hone to resurface the cylinders.

Your good cylinder is running very rich from the look of the wash on the top of the piston. You need to figure out why the other side leaned out. You will want to the check the trashed piston to see if the rings had turned. You can tell this by looking at the intake side of the piston and seeing if the ring ends are still in positon at the locator pins. If the rings didn't turn you will want to check for an air leak. The most likely air leaks are from cracks in the rubber carb flange, or a crankcase seal. Do you know how many miles are on this top end? If the failure was from a turned ring you will definitely want to replace both pistons. If you don;t know how many miles are on the top end, then I would recommend replacing both pistons, which of course means new rings as well, to give you a completely fresh top end.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (anthony10092 @ Jan 19 2007, 10:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
well if it not one thing its the other... getting ready to test the compression and the first pull, the pull cord snapped. didnt even pull a foot of rope and that went. this sled has become a nitmare for me now, it was good until now. i am tring to replace the cord but am not really sure on how to. so far the only way that i have seen is to pull the whole engine because there is a bolt that is holding the case to the stator on the bottom. So i took the engine out and now have this aluminumn plate on the bottom that has 2 bolts and looks like two inset screws. the bolts i have been able to get off, no problem but the hex inset screws are a differnt story. are they reverse thread or not? I have been tring to get them off for the last 30-45 mins and they are not budging. i am stuck with tring to get this stupid cover off so i can pull the cord to check the compression. thanks for the info guys.[/b]
You should not have to take the engine plate off to remove the recoil starter. The bolts that connect the plate to the engine use permanent loctite, so you should use a little bity of heat, like from a propane torch, to heat the fastener and it should break loose much easier. You will want to use loctite when putting back together. You should also get a service manual because you have taken a lot of things apart and this appears to be new to you. The service manual will give you pictures, setp by step instructions, and all torque specs.
 
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