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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished putting my top end back together.
I noticed some coolant on the garage foor. It is appartely coming from the base of the cylinder.

I torqed everthing accord to the manual (20ft lbs).

Is that right? Even when I was installing them it didnt seem tight enough. Either that or my torque wrench isnt working.

I did go over all the bolts again amd it seemed to start but if it is leaking on the outside it is probably leaked into the cylider.

I removed the plug to try and blow out any water but do I need to worry about water that may have gotten under the piston?
 

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I just did the same thing on my '96 Thundercat and the book calls for starting the torque for the cylinders at 29ftlbs. and increasing it to 43ftlbs. in three stages using a cross pattern sequence. Another thing I did, that was suggested by someone on this forum, was to spray a thin coat of copper gasket sealer on the gasket. You can buy this in aerosol cans at Autozone, I used about four thin coats on each gasket. You have to build it up you can't just spray a bunch on at one time it has to dry for about 30 seconds between coats. Hope this helps.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kaw550 @ Dec 20 2009, 04:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I just finished putting my top end back together.
I noticed some coolant on the garage foor. It is appartely coming from the base of the cylinder.

I torqed everthing accord to the manual (20ft lbs).

Is that right? Even when I was installing them it didnt seem tight enough. Either that or my torque wrench isnt working.

I did go over all the bolts again amd it seemed to start but if it is leaking on the outside it is probably leaked into the cylider.

I removed the plug to try and blow out any water but do I need to worry about water that may have gotten under the piston?[/b]
20 ft/lbs torque for the cylinders? Seems low. I just did my 02 ZR 800 EFI. Installed a new base gasket, no sealant or sealer needed on a new gasket per the shop manual. I don't recall the specs but I know it was more than 20 ft/lbs. I think the head bolts are 20 to 24 ft/lbs but the cylinders were something like 46 to 51 ??
I would pull it back apart, remove the coolant from the crankcase, clean the pistons, everything, then coat everything in oil. You can probably reuse the base gasket(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ugh. It took weeks for me to find the time to get it back together.
Actually, leaving the cylinder heads on will save some time.

I think I will pull it apart and use the coper spray this time. I think I may even have some from another project.

I'd go out the the garage and look in the manual but my back is killing me from trying to start that thing. It is by far the hardest sled I have tried to pull over.
 

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20 is too low. My 98 zl440 manual says 29-43 ftlbs. As said above I would take the top end apart and clean. You shouldn't need the copper spray stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I went out to the garage and got the manuals. I have two. An Arctic Cat manual specifically for the ZRT and a Clymer Manual for 90 to 98.

The Clymer says 13 to 20 at the back of the engine chapter.
The factory manual has it written in the text.
"19. Align the cylinder exhaust ports using a straight edge; then secure each cylinder with four flanged nuts. In three steps tighten the nuts to 1.8-2.8 kg-m (13-20 ft-lb)."

I just checked the back of the factory manual. There is a table. It says cylinder base 29-43.5.


Can I reuse the base gaskets or is it a mistake?
So, torqing down the cylinders and trying to start it is a mistake??
 

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I would not reuse the gasket. I'm sure somebody will tell you it's ok, but it wouldn't be on my engine.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kaw550 @ Dec 20 2009, 08:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
So I went out to the garage and got the manuals. I have two. An Arctic Cat manual specifically for the ZRT and a Clymer Manual for 90 to 98.

The Clymer says 13 to 20 at the back of the engine chapter.
The factory manual has it written in the text.
"19. Align the cylinder exhaust ports using a straight edge; then secure each cylinder with four flanged nuts. In three steps tighten the nuts to 1.8-2.8 kg-m (13-20 ft-lb)."

I just checked the back of the factory manual. There is a table. It says cylinder base 29-43.5.


Can I reuse the base gaskets or is it a mistake?
So, torqing down the cylinders and trying to start it is a mistake??[/b]
If the base gaskets leaked coolant outside the cylinder, it could of also leaked coolant into the cylinder. I would start over. It only takes about 30 minutes to drain the coolant down and remove the cylinders. As for the torque spec issues, you need to find out the correct torque values.
 

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If you replaced the lower gaskets on the jugs make sure you have the gasket on right. I had the same problem on my rebuilt zrt 600. I wasn't paying attention to the gasket and had it on upside down. Also make sure you got all of the coolant out of the crank case. The coolant reacts with the oil and breaks it down which could in turn seize the crank over time. Just talking from experience.
 

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I used a hose stuck it down in between the crand and the bottom and syphon it out then use paper towels for the little at the bottom check all cylinders. Then use a air hose to blow the hidden stuff out and dry the rest. Then recheck everything and rebuild.
 

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The reason I used some gasket sealer is just because I wanted to make sure that I wouldn't have any air or antifreeze leaks, since I wasn't doing a complete tear-down there was no way to make sure the crankcase matting surfaces are flat. If your using any type of scraping tool or cleaning disk its always possible that you could gouge or scatch the metal enough to cause a leak. The sealer would just help to fill in these little blemishes so you don't have leaks. Just piece of mind thats all.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I will tear it down tonight.
I did see the coolant drain on the front of the waterpump. How well does it work to bring the coolant level down? It seems like it is too low in the belly pan to be able to use a hose and bottle.



THe coolant level was already down when I started.
 

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Just my 2 cents, Years Ago, A local speed shop, And Certified Catmaster Trained Mechanic, said to use the copper coat and I have ever since.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kaw550 @ Dec 21 2009, 06:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I will tear it down tonight.
I did see the coolant drain on the front of the waterpump. How well does it work to bring the coolant level down? It seems like it is too low in the belly pan to be able to use a hose and bottle.



THe coolant level was already down when I started.[/b]

They work OK, but its really slow. What I usually do is open the drain, take off the filler cap and find something else to do for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I put a tube down the cap and pumped out as much as I could then I opened the drain.

I have everything unbolted but I am having trouble getting the cylinder off.

Before I get out the prybar and hammers are there any tricks to getting the cylinder off the studs?

I tried the tricks I know and got one off fairly easy but the others are wedged in.
 

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Well, I used plastic tip hammer and just kept working them up also hitting them side to side. I wouldn't go beating them too heavily with a hammer because you have to be careful about hitting them near the water jacket areas. Maybe try spraying some Liquid Wrench or PB penetrating oil around the studs letting it soak overnight to try and break-up the corrosion around the studs. They can be a real bitch to get off you just gotta keep working at it. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thats how I got them off the first time. With any luck they should come off a little easier this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All set.
The cylinders are off.
There was not a lot of water in there but I could see iton the the bottom off all three cylinders.

I used rolled up paper towels and then the compessor.
 
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