Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Registered
2004 Arctic Cat 400
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
it can be a few diff sizes, depends on the brand of axle, some are 15/16s some are like 27mm, some are 30mm and 31mm, also seen 32mm. 1-1/16 or 1-3/16 something like that, might be best to use an adjustable wrench, fit it tight, remove it and measure the gap accurately on the wrench.

It's tough for someone to give you an accurate size on them because i personally have encounters 3-5 sizes of axle nuts for a 2004 400i 4x4.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it can be a few diff sizes, depends on the brand of axle, some are 15/16s some are like 27mm, some are 30mm and 31mm, also seen 32mm. 1-1/16 or 1-3/16 something like that, might be best to use an adjustable wrench, fit it tight, remove it and measure the gap accurately on the wrench.

It's tough for someone to give you an accurate size on them because i personally have encounters 3-5 sizes of axle nuts for a 2004 400i 4x4.
We'll this kne happens to be a 30mm...crazy how the sizes are all over the board!
 

· Registered
2004 Arctic Cat 400
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
We'll this kne happens to be a 30mm...crazy how the sizes are all over the board!
Some manufacturers use a flange nut/castle nut, some use a washer and a nyloc, it's really odd that they all use diff sizes but when you buy a new castle nut for OEM axle its $25 for 1 castle nut, it makes sense why some suppliers use other methods of axle stub securement.

I prefer gorilla axles method myself, nyloc nut and a washer, torqued to 80-90ft/lbs, so much better than oem castle nut torque to 200ft/lb with a cotter pin.

I've even seen small castle nuts with a big washer, and big flange castle nuts.

Glad you got it sorted out at least, I've found the adjustable wrench & measure trick is handy if you don't have a caliper on hand.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some manufacturers use a flange nut/castle nut, some use a washer and a nyloc, it's really odd that they all use diff sizes but when you buy a new castle nut for OEM axle its $25 for 1 castle nut, it makes sense why some suppliers use other methods of axle stub securement.

I prefer gorilla axles method myself, nyloc nut and a washer, torqued to 80-90ft/lbs, so much better than oem castle nut torque to 200ft/lb with a cotter pin.

I've even seen small castle nuts with a big washer, and big flange castle nuts.

Glad you got it sorted out at least, I've found the adjustable wrench & measure trick is handy if you don't have a caliper on hand.
Hey can I ask what the "looped" means on your title?
 

· Registered
2004 Arctic Cat 400
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
Do you mean Looped Crank Vent ? in my signature?
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
43,032 Posts
Auto part Wood Metal Bicycle part Wire
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
8,005 Posts
Almost every boot I replaced was a complete waste of time. By the time I noticed it leaking, it probably let dirt in. It is a fairly long job and messy as can be. 75% of the boots I replaced had the same cv axle go bad soon afterwards. Aftermarket axles are inexpensive and fit fine. I just replace the cv axle now with a leaky boot. price wise is abut 2 to 3 times the cost of a boot kit. That being said, If i find a torn boot and Im almost positive no dirt entered, then I'll go with a new boot. I think used the EPI brand boot kits.
 

· Registered
2004 Arctic Cat 400
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
I use the Geo Metro boot kits, they last a long time, take alot of abuse and are like $20 from an auto-parts store. I want to say 91 geo metro outer boot kit works.

I haven't had to do one in awhile touch wood.

Way cheaper than OEM or EPI,
 
  • Like
Reactions: doorfx

· Registered
2004 Arctic Cat 400
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
Yes sir
What does that mean and what's the gain?
Looping your crank vent does a couple things.

1. Collects condensation and steam from the crankcase to allow you to unhook the vent on 1 side and drain it. This is a secondary benefit.

2. The primary benefit is it reduces the likelihood of water using that hose as a path to the crankcase if you take your machine swimming, I spend alot of time deeper than a guy without a snorkel should be, I spend some time blowing water out of that vent hose.

There is no performance gain from this, it's just a cheap thing to be done with or without a snorkel if you have high potential of water in airbox.
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
43,032 Posts
See picture I posted
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top