[Spangler92]

So I just purchased an 07 Artic cat 700, I’m pretty knowledgeable about what does what but I’m stumped as to when I have a new battery. I go to turn key to on and I get zero response from fuel pump or tack cluster on handle bars. But when I turn key one more position I can now turn on lights but get nothing as far as ignition goes, I have checked all fuses relays are good. Just what else is there to check. I made sure wires were tight on starter as well.

 

[doorfx]

The key switch itself is most likely the problem.

 

[660catman]

Sounds like the key switch

 

[Spangler92]

I’m getting power to the key switch, tore all plastics off found I had a wire rubbed in half it was the only wire that was like that. But still didn’t fix it.

 

[660catman]

You’re getting power to the switch, but are you getting it through the switch in each position?

 

[doorfx]

Simple to test it with a multimeter

 

[Spangler92]

That will be next step will let you know out come

 

[Spangler92]

Still have same problem so still stumped

 

[doorfx]

How did you test it ?

 

[Spangler92]

I don’t have a multi meter but I have a test light and all positions have power going to switch, I mean if the tart light saying it’s getting power pretty sure it’s working, and I’m probably going to get shade for assuming, it was just fine the other day and riding it so it wasn’t purchased with a like this

 

[doorfx]

A tester only shows voltage. It could be 2 volts. Doing your own work, a multimeter is a must. You can buy a cheap one for $20

 

[callwill]

I don’t have a multi meter but I have a test light and all positions have power going to switch, I mean if the tart light saying it’s getting power pretty sure it’s working, and I’m probably going to get shade for assuming, it was just fine the other day and riding it so it wasn’t purchased with a like this

Take a run to harbor freight. Even the 7 buck meter will be better than the test light for this.

 

[CatProwler]

Got an email and this chat showed up. Good to see Doorfx here! He said what I was going to.....sounds like a the key switch...but.....with electrical it can always be something funky. Of course U want to be sure U have good ground...good bat hook up and all the basic bla bla bla in that dept. Yes, a test "light" is nice but it has only certain skills...I luv my cheap little red HF multi I got for free ...it's bailed me out many times. You said U found a wire rubbed raw...did that wire short out? blow a fuse...or damage the computer...is there an "in line" fuse unknown yet? What about a simple safety sensor issue. like the handlebar kill switch....and others....Arctic cat had issues with their Temp sensors I read....could that be enough not to pass the needed "every things ok" current to start the machine? crank sensor....safety/neutral switch/sensor...and so on. and nobody likes to say "the brain box" as that's normally and expensive thing...Go back to basic's...BEFORE U go that route...double check simple things....kill switch...ign....sensors...fuses...pull them out put them back in....relays..pull them out put them back in...or if U have TWO IDENTICAL ones...switch them...remember I said IDENTICAL...and so on...simple checks first... the go to the brain box and check in going and out going...cuz that controls the cluster and the pump to my understanding. no? yes?

 

[CatProwler]

Got an email and this chat showed up. Good to see Doorfx here! He said what I was going to.....sounds like a the key switch...but.....with electrical it can always be something funky. Of course U want to be sure U have good ground...good bat hook up and all the basic bla bla bla in that dept. Yes, a test "light" is nice but it has only certain skills...I luv my cheap little red HF multi I got for free ...it's bailed me out many times. You said U found a wire rubbed raw...did that wire short out? blow a fuse...or damage the computer...is there an "in line" fuse unknown yet? What about a simple safety sensor issue. like the handlebar kill switch....and others....Arctic cat had issues with their Temp sensors I read....could that be enough not to pass the needed "every things ok" current to start the machine? crank sensor....safety/neutral switch/sensor...and so on. and nobody likes to say "the brain box" as that's normally and expensive thing...Go back to basic's...BEFORE U go that route...double check simple things....kill switch...ign....sensors...fuses...pull them out put them back in....relays..pull them out put them back in...or if U have TWO IDENTICAL ones...switch them...remember I said IDENTICAL...and so on...simple checks first... the go to the brain box and check in going and out going...cuz that controls the cluster and the pump to my understanding. no? yes?

I do this on lawnmowers! So....do not do it....until others who know ATV's and such better than me...but ...on lawn mowers...I'll put the switch in the run spot..and "jump" the starter to see if the machine will start/ running. I'll put gas in plug hole to see if it fires ..runs for a few sec's....I call it working backasswards...sometimes it tells me "fuel pump" check it...or Cluster is shot, but motor wants to run...I had a bolens....that was a wire nightmare....this helped me find that on that machine it was the damn voltage regulator!! On my friends ATV that was the issue cuz it was not getting the current needed to the coil box and the other box that would allow the machine to run!! Just idea's here.....hope some others jump in and give some clues...?? work forward and backwards...I guess?

 

[CatProwler]

I do this on lawnmowers! So....do not do it....until others who know ATV's and such better than me...but ...on lawn mowers...I'll put the switch in the run spot..and "jump" the starter to see if the machine will start/ running. I'll put gas in plug hole to see if it fires ..runs for a few sec's....I call it working backasswards...sometimes it tells me "fuel pump" check it...or Cluster is shot, but motor wants to run...I had a bolens....that was a wire nightmare....this helped me find that on that machine it was the damn voltage regulator!! On my friends ATV that was the issue cuz it was not getting the current needed to the coil box and the other box that would allow the machine to run!! Just idea's here.....hope some others jump in and give some clues...?? work forward and backwards...I guess?

..........I've done a TON of bad Oil level sensors on Predators...Generators and such...the damn things have proper oil level...but the faulty oil sensor prevents the machine from starting...on those things it's easy to make sure the oil level is right and disconnect the oil sensor and see if that's the bugger...I do not know if your machine has such a sensor? Again..just thinkin' out loud here???

 

[CatProwler]

..........I've done a TON of bad Oil level sensors on Predators...Generators and such...the damn things have proper oil level...but the faulty oil sensor prevents the machine from starting...on those things it's easy to make sure the oil level is right and disconnect the oil sensor and see if that's the bugger...I do not know if your machine has such a sensor? Again..just thinkin' out loud here???

ok.........LMAO.......one last thing.....as I was doing more thinking......lol......U guys gonna think I'm nuts....well......I am.........what I was gonna say...and I can't stop laughin'...
IS DO THE WIGGLE......lol...what I mean is...I had a friend with a jeep...it was doing it's thing where it would start not start....I knew it was electrical...knew bat and all else was good...so I had friend hold the key in start spot......and I did the wiggle.....lol.....actually found the problem! It was one of the 32 wires that went in through the fire wall...it was in the main wire harness!!! it was the wire that controlled the ECM--computer if U will......that one wire had a bad connection at the plug in... go figure....the wiggle saved the day...... ok...I'm done...before I get kicked off for being strange

 

[Spangler92]

Ok guys I need to know what a bad switch low voltage would be testing with a multi meter. Also some other ideas to check and what to check if switch is good, I also have a switch on order. Battery is new fuse’s are good I went through entire wiring harness after I found broke wire. I didn’t encounter anymore wires broke. I fixed the one wire. I took apart switches on handle bars all wires were fine not corroded. Look me up on Facebook need a faster way to talk about this.Glenn Spangler

 

[Spangler92]

Also I have jumped silanoid it cranked over but wouldn’t start obviously, and yes kill switch was to it’s correct run position.

 

[Spangler92]

I’m getting power to everything but yet when I turn key to run position my cluster my fuel pump do absolutely nothing turn key one more position lights will come on

 

[masters4subs]

So I just purchased an 07 Artic cat 700, I’m pretty knowledgeable about what does what but I’m stumped as to when I have a new battery. I go to turn key to on and I get zero response from fuel pump or tack cluster on handle bars. But when I turn key one more position I can now turn on lights but get nothing as far as ignition goes, I have checked all fuses relays are good. Just what else is there to check. I made sure wires were tight on starter as well.

My 2013 Artic cat 700 atv did the same thing! did you check you fuses with a test light or just look at them mine blow a 10 Amp MEM fuse! it looked good but then I tested it and it was in fact bad