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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I might be buying a 06 M7? What kind of tips and tricks can ya'll give me? I want the carbed M7 but cant seem to find one? Or should I just go with the EFI's??? anyone got anything for me?

Shaneo
 

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Great sleds from everything I've heard...........I haven't got to take mine out in anything over 1 Ft yet.

I'm assuming you want the carbed so you can easily adjust for pipes & other add ons? It's a good idea for that, but the EFI is nice & with a Boondocker box, you can still make all the adjustments you need for pipes and should be able to pick up some numbers from whoever manufactured the pipe you bought.

The '05s & '06s need the Holz Racing Brackets (front torque arm relocation kit). This helps out big time! if you get an '06, the valving will be fine, if an '05 they should probably get revalved to 06 specs.

The A20 isn't great............most opt out for the Challenger or Maverick. I've heard that some thing the A20 in hillclimb is almost as good as the Challenger, but no first hand experience with that.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
About how much coin is the boondocker kit run??? I dont know much about cat? But Will hopefully end up with one soon?
 

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BD boxes are 500 cdn. My 06 m7 is stock with the bd box, enlarged intake tube and a set of egt's. This sled rocks! It totally outperforms my 02 MCat 800. I run the attack 20 162" and just love it. It is so easy to turn when going uphill. I reversed it and put it in hillclimb position. These sleds run pretty hot under the hood but that's an easy fix with some add on vents. I'm just starting to play with the BD box so it should be dialed in soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With that dimond drive... How easy is it to change tracks, and put extrovert drivers...????? Is it a payne in the arse? Dose anyone here have a 06 M7 they want to sell??? Preferably one with carbs???

Shaneo
 

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the M7 comes with extroverts so you do not need to add them. I tried to flip the track the night before a ride and chickened out of pulling the DD apart or prying the shaft out on the brake side. But everything I have read says flipping the track is easy.
I have no idea why anyone would want carbs anymore. The EFI is just so sweet and has lots of mod potential. EFI has made it possible to make reliable 2stk turbos, and can be tuned so much easier than a carb. Step into the future. Get an EFI sled you will look back at the days of choke and priming with the same fondness as boggie wheels and leaf spring front suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MCRC @ Feb 1 2007, 09:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
the M7 comes with extroverts so you do not need to add them. I tried to flip the track the night before a ride and chickened out of pulling the DD apart or prying the shaft out on the brake side. But everything I have read says flipping the track is easy.
I have no idea why anyone would want carbs anymore. The EFI is just so sweet and has lots of mod potential. EFI has made it possible to make reliable 2stk turbos, and can be tuned so much easier than a carb. Step into the future. Get an EFI sled you will look back at the days of choke and priming with the same fondness as boggie wheels and leaf spring front suspension.[/b]
I want the carbed one cuz I was told by a few people that have had both and said the carbed ones are the way to go. Not as rich and better throtle response... Do the M8's come with both???
 

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Get the EFI one IMO....much better than crappy old carbs and jetting hassles.

Put in SLP sidepanel vents and add the bikeman or injector perfector fuel reducer, cheap and easy to install in 5 minutes.
Add the holtz suspension brackets.

And then enjoy....sweet sleds and very liteweight and fun to ride.
 

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My family has five M sleds two are the 06 carb 153's they both have 800 kits on them and are clutched to a tee, we can run a drag race against any stock M1000 and hang with or beat them, but on the hill the M1000 torque gets us we do have a M1000 in the group but we have put our 1200 kit on it. but the carb 800 are cc for cc the most powerful sled in the valley
 

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If you plan to mod it try finding a carbed sled. The boondocker box was a hassle for me, it seemed like it was not allowing the ecu to change the fuel map for the conditions. I have heard the pure logic box runs more consistant but have yet to play with one. Carbed green 153 with an 800 top end rips.
 

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With the boondocker there is absolutely no reason to have carbs anymore as you can make the adjustments to the EFI far easier then a carb. They are just as responsive and have a lighter throttle pull. Go with a 2.5 degree timing key, Vforce3 reeds, BMP Pipe Mod, and a boondocker. Ditch all the sound deadening material to loose some weight. If you have a 05 or 06 add a HRP relocaton bracket and have your shocks revalved I had mine done by ShockTech and they did a excellent job. The Oles 3" riser puts the bars at a perfect height. Hope that helps.
 

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Changing or flipping track is not to hard. Set parking brake, pull both side panels, pull clutch guard,belt and secondary clutch. Make sure you account for shims on back of secondary, they may be stuck in dd. Go to brake side of sled, remove 5/8" brake bolt. This will be hard the first time, it has blue loctite on it just be sure to reloctite bolt when installing and torque to 70 ft lbs. Flip sled onto brake side, make sure you put something under it to avoid scratching the hood. Almost forgot before you flip the sled on its side loosen track tension. Remove rubber piece on upper portion of dd. (sits between dd and plate behind primary clutch) When reinstalling rubber piece spray with some kind of lube this will help it slide back into place. Remove six 1/2" nuts on dd. Cut zip tie on speedo wire. Use a pry bar a put a small amount of preasure under the dd from inside the tunnel, it should pop up. Then pull dd up and unplug sppeedo wire. On the other side of tunnel (on inside) Remove five nuts that hold on brake assembly, and drop down. You may want to remove skid frame before this. Once skid frame is removed and drive shaft assembly is dropped down the track can be removed. It would be helpful to have a extra set of hand when doing this. When installing the dd nut torque them to 20 ft lbs. Hopefully this help you out, if you have any ? pm me. I think this is eveything, if not I am sure somebody will correct me.

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
but the carb 800 are cc for cc the most powerful sled in the valley


i have heard that from a few people... I think its why Ski-doo still runs carbs on there 800's... I am just having a tuff time finding a cabed 06 M7... All I can find are EFI one's tho??? I'm sure the EFI's are great sleds, but I dont realy want to have to spend all kinds of sheott on Boondocker boxes and all kinds of other stuff to make it ez to adjust.. bang your head . When I could just get carbs and spend all that money on clutching and jetting and maybe a can and other goodies...??? If I cant find one by next wknd? i'm just gonna keep my summit and look next year for an M Thanks for the responses tho guys...
 

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Remember this the Suzuki 700 motor that was put into the M7 was engineered for natural aspiration (carburators) it is only the newly designed and engineered 800 and 1000 that are built from the groud up for efi the m7 motor was modified.
 

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There is no difference between a throttle body injection efi system and a carburator in how the engine itself is designed. Cat dropped the carbs because they can't consistently meet EPA regs in all temp and elevation condtions with a carb. A carb might run right on any given day if its been tuned to that exact temp and elevation but when you change 3000ft of elevation and 30degrees throughout a day the EFI is going to perform consistently throughout all thoose ranges but hey thats just my opinion. There was a few people making carb conversions for the efi cat sleds might look into that as the new 800 and 1000s don't come in carbed and they only made 700 carbeds in 06 and I know very few dealers even ordered them. Sorry not much help if you do find a carbed for sale it should be cheap most dealers in my area won't even trade in a carbed sled anymore or if they do it will be for 1000 less then a efi sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ndmtnsledder @ Feb 3 2007, 04:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Sorry but don't know what you guys are smoking but there is no difference between a throttle body injection efi system and a carburator in how the engine itself is designed. Cat dropped the carbs because they can't consistently meet EPA regs in all temp and elevation condtions with a carb. A carb might run right on any given day if its been tuned to that exact temp and elevation but when you change 3000ft of elevation and 30degrees throughout a day the EFI is going to perform consistently throughout all thoose ranges but hey thats just my opinion. There was a few people making carb conversions for the efi cat sleds might look into that as the new 800 and 1000s don't come in carbed and they only made 700 carbeds in 06 and I know very few dealers even ordered them. Sorry not much help if you do find a carbed for sale it should be cheap most dealers in my area won't even trade in a carbed sled anymore or if they do it will be for 1000 less then a efi sled.[/b]
EPA yes... But I dont know of a sleder that changes elevation more than a few hundered feet to maybe a thousand in a day...??? I know how to work a carb and have been doing it for a long time. So all I asked was if anyone basically new where I could find a carbed 06 M7??? Thats it... I realy didnt want to have to buy this and buy that and modify the wheel to have an M7 perform like I want it too... Sorry if i'm being a dick? But I know what I want. But If I cant get one? i would consider a EFI... But I would rather put cash into my new M and my summit... Thanks for the 411 tho... I doo see where everyone is comming from.

Shaneo
 

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What are you willing to pay for an 06 M7 carb model with a 153 challenger track. It has an SLP can, bikeman pipe mod, and ovs clutch kit. It has 170 miles on it and runs great.
 

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Dear ndmtnsledder please think before you respond next time and accuse somone of smoking somthing. Reread the blog and see that I said the M7 was designed for carburation and not efi so if you want to compare a carburator motor and an efi motor you NEED to compare the M7 to the M8 or M1000 and where do I start with the differences. And if I compare an M7 carb and an M7 efi the Motor will not be the difference it will be how it is fueled where again do I start (No cdi, different ignition, no mechanical control of the fuel etc.) Please step away from the pipe yourself.
 

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Sorry I wasn't trying to start anything and sorry I said anybody was smoking anything just trying to say the the engine itself porting, crank, bore and stroke, ect ect are all the same between a carb and efi engine there are no differences in the way the mechanics work. They just bolt on a carb rack or a throttle body and acording electronics CDI or ECU depending on which system. They is no engine designing differences unless you start going to SDI or DI. There is no reason a Performance shop can't unbolt the throttle bodies from a 1000 or 800 and bolt on some custom Carbs and a MSD or someting on that order ignition and not make it work the engine themselves are the same which back in 03 several were doing on big bore and piped F7s cause the controller boxes hadn't been perfected yet.

I guess I get frustrated with all the people locally over the years that tried to claim a Carb will make more HP then a EFI. If both are set correctly they will make equal HP plain and simple. Also i've rode over 1000ft elevation swings many times in WY and MT and had friends with carbed sleds that were switching jets through out the day or ran horrible in town and great once we got up higher or vice versa depending how they were set. But thats all just my opinion I'm not trying to change what you should buy thats your money just trying to say that there are no downfalls to an EFI that some people say that all ended with the better ECUs back in 03 that fixed the throttle responce problem. A boondocker works just like tuning a carbed sled you just don't have to use any wrenches and no extra jets to carry around or clips to move. Sorry if I upset anyone. I'll try and be more polite in the future.
 

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Holzman makes an Attac system that installs on an M7 with carbs. You have to change the main jet to a -40 setting, then the system adjusts for temperature, and altitude. You don't have to touch yourjets after that. Throttle response is crisp, without the bog many M7 owners disliked about the EFI model.

I liked the chassis and handling on my '05 EFI well enough that I bought an '06 holdover with carbs. So far everything is great, and I have rode in temps from -25 to +5 degrees, and a wide range of elevations. The fuel consumption with carbs is also WAY less than the EFI.

As for trade in value, you get screwed anytime you sell a used sled, so I might as well buy one I am happy with while I own it. It was also nearly a thousand less to buy in the first place.
 
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