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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys:

:sos:

Only my second season back on a sled since 1987 so I'm a bit rusty.
I have a 2001 ZR 600 EFI STD. A couple weeks ago, I bought a used set of 2001 ZR 800 LE remote reservoir shocks that I'm going to have rebuilt and put on my sled. Also have a new set of 01 440 SnoPro springs to go on it. I'm going with this package as I am a large rider and I hope to both help keep the front from bottoming out so much as well as dampen the bumps a little tighter.

I have a couple questions that I hope someone can help me with.

The springs fit, is there any reason I couldn't use the SnoPro springs on my STD suspension with the LE shocks?

Second question is even more ignorant! How the hell does the shock reservoir attach to the tunnel with the clamp? Is there a bracket that is additional on the LE/SnoPro/Cross Country or does the clam loop through a slot or something?

If anyone could help me with this and even better, send me some close-up photos of your sleds FRT suspension with the reservoir shocks, I would be deeply indebted. Not worthy:

Shock PNs 0703-824 & 825
Spring PN 0703-744

Thanks,

BA
[email protected]
 

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The SnoPro springs should work as long as the are not to short for the shock. Not sure if they are stiff/stiffer than the LE springs. The reservoir just clamps to the indentation in the belly pan directly above the a-arms. Hope that helps. Borrowed this photo from one of the other members.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (F1BADUDE @ Jan 7 2007, 08:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Guys:

:sos:

Only my second season back on a sled since 1987 so I'm a bit rusty.
I have a 2001 ZR 600 EFI STD. A couple weeks ago, I bought a used set of 2001 ZR 800 LE remote reservoir shocks that I'm going to have rebuilt and put on my sled. Also have a new set of 01 440 SnoPro springs to go on it. I'm going with this package as I am a large rider and I hope to both help keep the front from bottoming out so much as well as dampen the bumps a little tighter.

I have a couple questions that I hope someone can help me with.

The springs fit, is there any reason I couldn't use the SnoPro springs on my STD suspension with the LE shocks?

Second question is even more ignorant! How the hell does the shock reservoir attach to the tunnel with the clamp? Is there a bracket that is additional on the LE/SnoPro/Cross Country or does the clam loop through a slot or something?

If anyone could help me with this and even better, send me some close-up photos of your sleds FRT suspension with the reservoir shocks, I would be deeply indebted. Not worthy:

Shock PNs 0703-824 & 825
Spring PN 0703-744

Thanks,

BA
[email protected][/b]

For the parts diagrams, check the following link:

http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/index.html

On the skid, on most models the front shock reservoir is usually hose-clamped to a cross-brace at the very front of the rails, where your straps are attached.

Hope it helps! :chug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 7 2007, 10:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
The reservoir just clamps to the indentation in the belly pan directly above the a-arms.[/b]
Thanks Slick. Is there a slot cut trough the belly pan where the clamp threads through or does it simply snap into the small indentation?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (F1BADUDE @ Jan 8 2007, 05:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 7 2007, 10:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The reservoir just clamps to the indentation in the belly pan directly above the a-arms.[/b]
Thanks Slick. Is there a slot cut trough the belly pan where the clamp threads through or does it simply snap into the small indentation?
[/b][/quote]

You have to cut the slots. I just drilled two holes and then cut between them with a utility knife.
 

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Are you doing any work to the rear suspension. It will feel softer now with the stiffer front. May have to put stiffer springs in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 8 2007, 05:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Are you doing any work to the rear suspension. It will feel softer now with the stiffer front. May have to put stiffer springs in the rear.[/b]
I already put the largest diameter springs on the rear last season and have it adjusted to the stiffest setting. I'm guessing that didn't help the front suspension from botoming out. I also put a new Fox rear shock on it a couple weeks ago but I'm not sure if that is any tighter than the ACT shock.

I was worried about the SoPro springs being somewhat shorter than the stock springs. I don't have the springs that came with the LE shocks just the STD springs that are currently on the sled. They are starting to rust (PO stored sled on an open trailer with just a cloth cover) plus I wanted something a little more agressive. The SnoPro springs look as if they will still travel enough but still I wonder about the length.
You can see from the photo, if I put the springs in the installed but unloaded possition, it is slightly shorter than the stock one; assuming the stock one is under some load.
I would assume the SnoPro shock angle is more acute than the LE for maximum shock and spring travel thus a tighter suspension. This would explain the shorter spring. I may be smoking something though.

Take a look at it and let me know your thoughts. Is it too short?

BA

[attachment=60054:p1000692.JPG]
[attachment=60055:p1000697.JPG]
 

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that should work as long as the spring is not loose as it sits in the picture. You want them as loose as possible without bottoming out. Try them out if they work great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Clutch


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (clutch @ Jan 8 2007, 12:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (F1BADUDE @ Jan 8 2007, 05:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 7 2007, 10:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The reservoir just clamps to the indentation in the belly pan directly above the a-arms.[/b]
Thanks Slick. Is there a slot cut trough the belly pan where the clamp threads through or does it simply snap into the small indentation?
[/b][/quote]

You have to cut the slots. I just drilled two holes and then cut between them with a utility knife.
[/b][/quote]
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 8 2007, 07:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
that should work as long as the spring is not loose as it sits in the picture. You want them as loose as possible without bottoming out. Try them out if they work great.[/b]
Sweet, I'm goin' with it. Just need some frickin' snow to ride it on.
:beer_cheers:
 

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use the sno-pro springs if they are the white ones in the picture they should be 80-120lb/inch progressive wound. They will give the best ride...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
last couple questions

I really should pull the A arms off, blast and powder coat them. They look like hell.
While I got 'em out, should I replace all the bushings and bearings? Do those seem to wear a lot? Sled has less than 2K on it.

Also, what is inside the spindle assembly before they weld it shut? Does it have bearings in it? I'm wondering if it is safe to sand blast and then irrigate in the parts washer or is that going to fill some needles or glacier bearings with sand. Would also be concerned about any rubber or plastic inside as it would go through a 350<sup>o</sup> Oven in the powder coat process.

Thoughts?

BA
 

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You would have to get 100 percent of the grease out of the spindle or it will ruin the powdercoat in the oven, it will go liquid and run all over. I sandblasted and painted my spindles without any problems afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was thginking about spraying it with Eastwood Extreem Chasis Black. Their stuff is awesome but it is $40 for a can of paint and a can of primer.
I can get the powder coat for free. I hear you about the grease, I was thinking it would also trap some moisture in the wash and that can cause a mess too when it boils out in the oven.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/tellafr...4&preview=1
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TRIPLESROCK @ Jan 9 2007, 07:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
You would have to get 100 percent of the grease out of the spindle or it will ruin the powdercoat in the oven, it will go liquid and run all over. I sandblasted and painted my spindles without any problems afterwards.[/b]
What is the best method for removing all the grease from the spindles prior to powder coat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Catman_zrt @ Jan 11 2007, 07:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TRIPLESROCK @ Jan 9 2007, 07:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You would have to get 100 percent of the grease out of the spindle or it will ruin the powdercoat in the oven, it will go liquid and run all over. I sandblasted and painted my spindles without any problems afterwards.[/b]
What is the best method for removing all the grease from the spindles prior to powder coat?
[/b][/quote]

I am going to try a solvent tank with a pump on it. Will take the zirk out and feed the solvent in that hole. Hopefully it will flush it all; we'll see.
 
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