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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just traded my great running 99 ZR 500 with 2700 miles for a 98 ZR 600 WITH A NEW MOTOR and 5500 miles on the clock.

This sled is so clean it could have come off the showroom floor. It looks brand new with not one surface rust spot that I can find anywhere. Why did the guy trade me? His son is only 14 and he wanted his kid to have a smaller sled and the 600 has a bog issue!

We just got a ton of snow and it's so deep you can barely get any traction even following the groomer with a picked track. We'll be snowmobiling till mid April .


Anyway back to the bog issue. The sled was so clean I traded anyway even with the issue.

This sled is strange as it says 98 on the tool box lid and the hood is a 98 but the handlebar switches and air box boot appear to be 99. Maybe they changed it mid year?

It starts right up and idols fine. just off idol it bogs, not every time but most of the time. It gets to mid range and rips with no issues. Just feels like its running out of gas and about to die then comes back as your taking off.

Unplugged the the throttle position senser with no difference. I do not have the book on the efi only the carb.

I have a meter can anyone give me the proceedures for ohm testing the electrons involved. I am open to any advise.

I need this problem traced down tonight. Thanks Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If I was to switch this over to a carb sled what do I need?

I have the newly rewound stator from my 99 ZL 500....told it was the same as a zr 600 carb stator.

I have the cdi and coil from the zl and a set from a 98 zr 600 as well....told they were the same.

Do I need to switch the gas tanks or can I just switch the componants?

I am told the temp senser needs to be swaped. I assume the one from my zl will also work correct

Any info on this subject or just fixing the bog on the efi appreated.
 

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I would check the TPS. Many times the TPS gets removed so that the plug can be put on since the steering shaft interferes with it (poor planning on AC's part). The service manual says that if it is out of adjustment that you need to replace the whole throttle body. On my 98 ZR, I unknowingly removed the TPS. When I put it back on I had a bog issue exactly like you described. I figured if the factory could set it so could I. I used the specs for setting the TPS for earlier EFI sleds and got it within range and it worked like a champ. Bog gone and nice piston wash and plug color. Here is a cut and paste from one of my earlier posts.

TESTING TPS
If you think it is the throttle position sensor, you can check it with an ohm meter. The TPS has 3 wires/pins and I can't remember which is which, but you can figure it out easy enough. Call the wires/pins A, B, and C. The wires connect to the TPS at the connector. Unplug the connector and hook a meter between 2 of the pins on the TPS. (on my sled I couldn't unhook the connector, so I cut the wires and re-soldered them back together after getting it set). This is where you figure out which ones you care about. A-B should be about 850 ohms at idle and go to about 5000 ohms at full throttle. A-C should read about 5000 ohms no matter what the throttle position. B-C you don't really care about but will be have a high reading at idle and go to a low reading at full throttle. First, if A-C reads open or more than 15% from 5000 ohms then the TPS is likely shot, but you would probably get a fault on the computer. Next, when you open the throttle the reading for A-B should increase smoothly to 5000 ohms at full throttle (+ or - 15% all readings). When checking for smooth operation between A-B, I use an analog meter with a needle because it is easier to see a dead spot in the range as the needle will jump. The TPS is the main sensor the computer uses to determine how much fuel to deliver. If the readings are off, the engine will run rich or lean throughout the range. If A-C checks out and the reading for A-B is smooth, but the idle and high throttle readings are off, you can try adjusting it by loosening the 2 screws a bit and rotating the TPS to get the readings in tolerance. Do this at your own risk as Arctic Cat says not to mess with it and replace the whole throttle body if the TPS is out of spec. Again Idle should be 850 + or - 15% (723 to 977 ohms), and full throttle should be 5000 + or - 15% (4250 to 5750 ohms). One note when I did the check for my sled was that the cable slack wouldn't let the throttle plates open all the way and you should reach in where the cable hooks at the throttle boby and rotate the butterfly's full open when checking it. With 850 at idle I only got about 4000 ohms at full throttle with the throttle flipper, but 4350 ohms pulling it the rest of the way by hand. Before I adjusted it, my sled was just out of spec (about 690 ohms at idle and I was getting a bog under hard acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks JB, I read that post of yours already just the pocedure is a little confusing for me. Is there a link somewhere to the service manual for this sled?

Do you think I made a mistake trading the 99 ZR 500 for this? Had a guy that was going to give $1400 for the 500 on Thursday. I'm having second thoughts as to whether I made a mistake.

Can the dealer hook there analizer up to the computer and know what the problem is for sure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the sled suppost to be running when you do these tests? If so I assume the sled will start and rev with these sensers disconected? If the sled runs and revs with these unhooked couldn't I just drive without them and if it runs good then I know where the problem is. Also in all your tests on this and the stator you don't say which one the red goes on or the black probe? The stator tests on the carb stator say red here black there.
 

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BTW, the 98 ZR 600 EFI is a great sled. The only fault it has in my opinion is it is a little thirsty on gas. Other than that, mine has run great. I did have the crank break at 4600 miles, but I'm not so sure that is a concern since yours just got a new one.
 

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This may sound kind of stupid, but try unhooking the killswitch on the handlebars and ride it once. I had a problem very similar to yours and we couldnt figure it out for the longest time. I had a 1998 zr 500, when I came out of the turns or if I was taking off it felt like it was going to shut off. What was happening was my weight was pushing downwards on the throttle and it was somehow shorting out the killswitch... You can probably test this by just starting the sled and pushing down on the top of the throttle to see if it will bog down...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the diagram. however I have no 4 pin connector coming from my throttle bodies. There are 2 yellow wires coming from the top of one and two green wires coming from the top of the other. these wires go straight into the efi box with nothing to unplug. What is wrong here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looked again and I see the connector pictured. There are 3 wires coming off it not 4. They are red white and black. they run into the tubing but at the other end only the red and white wire goes into the efi box. Not sure how to pull the plug on this. Should I try removing the sencer by undoing the 2 screws bolting it to the side?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (NHACRIDER @ Feb 25 2009, 09:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Thank you for the diagram. however I have no 4 pin connector coming from my throttle bodies. There are 2 yellow wires coming from the top of one and two green wires coming from the top of the other. these wires go straight into the efi box with nothing to unplug. What is wrong here?[/b]
What you are looking at are the injector wires. The TPS is on the side of the throttle body. If the sled is a ZR600 EFI I will guarantee that you have a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The TPS has 4 pins on it but only 3 are used therefore the wire bundle only has 3 wires in it. The TPS is located on the magneto side of the throttle body. You will probably not be able to unplug the connector because the steering post gets in the way.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (NHACRIDER @ Feb 25 2009, 09:56 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Looked again and I see the connector pictured. There are 3 wires coming off it not 4. They are red white and black. they run into the tubing but at the other end only the red and white wire goes into the efi box. Not sure how to pull the plug on this. Should I try removing the sencer by undoing the 2 screws bolting it to the side?[/b]
DO NOT REMOVE THE SENSOR. It is a real pain in the a$$ to get back on. Right now all you want to do is test to see if it is set corretly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
message received JB. The plug is right under the senser it self. As you stated the colum is in the way. Are the red and white wires the ones I want? I assume I am just doing an ohm test on these two wires? If it is off What do you do? If it in within spec how do you adjust it?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (NHACRIDER @ Feb 25 2009, 10:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
message received JB. The plug is right under the senser it self. As you stated the colum is in the way. Are the red and white wires the ones I want? I assume I am just doing an ohm test on these two wires? If it is off What do you do? If it in within spec how do you adjust it?[/b]
Yep, just an ohm test. The two wires you want are the white and black wires (i think). Like I said before, I just cut those wires and resoldered them back together after getting the TPS set correctly because I couldn't unplug the TPS either. Test it first and if it is within spec (723.5 to 977.5 ohm at idle, 4250 to 5750 ohm at full throttle), then just leave it alone. If it is not in spec, then there are 2 screws that hold the TPS to the throttle body. The TPS has slots and you can rotate it after loosening the 2 bolts. Clockwise for higher ohm readings (richer mixture) and counterclockwise for lower ohm readings (Leaner mixture). When you check full throttle, make sure to reach in and pull the throttle plates fully open at the throttle body itself. The handlebar mounted throttle probably won't fully open them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, I cut the wires, the black & white seem to be the two I need. Any other combo puts me in the K Ohms range. at idle the ohms are at 623 as I move through the range I can get up to like 3200 ohms then as I go further it jumps to K ohms then at wide open it goes to OL. Is it bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Trying to price out a new sensor. looking at browns. it's not in electrical and not in throttle body. whats section is it in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can't find it because the sensor is not sold seperatly. You have to but the whole throttle body assembly. List price $2300 WTF!!
 

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Doesn't sound good, but try this before going any further. Loosen the two mounting screws and rotate the TPS a little clockwise until you get 850 at idle and then tighten it and recheck. The idle reading you are getting is on the lean side and would make it have a lean bog like mine had. The meter reading will go to K-ohms once you get past 1000 ohm. The full throttle reading should be between 4.25 and 5.75 K ohms. The troubling thing is that it goes OL on you. If once you get the 850 adjusted and it still goes OL then I would say the TPS is bad. The unfortunate thing is that Arctic Cat doesn't sell the TPS separately. There was a thread a while back about someone looking at Suzuki Swift car TPS sensors. A Suzuki car TPS is logical since the engine in the ZR is made by Suzuki. Thing is I don't think anyone actually came up with a part number from a car that was verified to be the same. It is possible that the earlier arctic cat TPS is the same, but I don't know. If it is bad, another option is to buy a complete throttle body from a snowmaobile salvage or off of e-bay.
 

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There are several used throttle bodies on on e-bay right now. Should be able to get one for about $100. Check out the link below. If you buy used you have to make sure that the throttle body imatches the ECU. Look on your ecu and you will see a symbol that is either a square, triangle or circle. The throttle body has to match. Hope this helps.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?f...&category0=
 
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