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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
New seat came this morning. Once I'm done it will just Velcro on is all. Two pics of it just sitting there is all. Velcro is sewn in to seat, then has Velcro strips to stick on tunnel. I gotta find way to angle the running boards extended, or find plastic end caps other type sled to cap it off? Not sure yet what to do LOL. Gonna have more money in sled than what it's worth. But I was looking for a fun project just to stay busy LOL... And I'm not even done with aluminum work, or up top the foot rest yet. Let alone the front clip, the motor, paint etc.... LOL...
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
81 SRXs are hard to come by and very coveted with Yamaha collectors.......I had a 79 srx440 and an 81srx440.......complete rockets......81s have a tendency to blow if they’re not tuned just right.....,good find there big bad Bill......especially Free!.....I just found an SR643😎.....

79 and 80 pretty fast sleds stock. But the 77 is GOLD if ya find one cheap..... The 77 was the competition for the rotax RV 454 in those days... Both like 100hp sleds and LIGHT.... STOCK...
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
What your referring to is a needle in a haystack, been investigating the SRX heritage; ‘77SRX was a real nightmare to tune and keep running!

77 was the fastest 440 Yammie in the day... It's competition was the sno pro cat 440, and sno pro Rotax 454. All three VERY hard to beat.... BEST THREE VINTAGE SLEDS EVER BUILT !!!
 

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79 and 80 pretty fast sleds stock. But the 77 is GOLD if ya find one cheap..... The 77 was the competition for the rotax RV 454 in those days... Both like 100hp sleds and LIGHT.... STOCK...
Keeping my eyes peeled for a ‘77 from now on, gold could be sitting in a field forgotten and left as a rust farm. A few garage sales may turn up a lost gem that the kids know nothing about! Lol! 🤑
 

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Keeping my eyes peeled for a ‘77 from now on, gold could be sitting in a field forgotten and left as a rust farm. A few garage sales may turn up a lost gem that the kids know nothing about! Lol! 🤑
Hot Wheels cars can be profitable, 1968 VW bus named “Beach Bum” not in the blister wrap can sell for $150,000! Even in poor condition $75,000 for a little chunk of metal! lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
This was a tough one to beat also with three and four cylinder ones...

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Hot Wheels cars can be profitable, 1968 VW bus named “Beach Bum” not in the blister wrap can sell for $150,000! Even in poor condition $75,000 for a little chunk of metal! lol!
I have four metal detectors here LOL... Lot of fun. Been using them since early 90's... Find all kinds of cool stuff. I use to go to tot lots late and find the cars and cap pistols LOL...
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
This is gonna suck LOL... The fiberglass windshield and hood seam just cant fit perfect. So no way around it, gotta run glass cloth and resin around the seam as all one unit. Looks like hell now with resin running down it LOL.. I installed tiny screws to squeeze it in place, then resin and cloth. Once it takes hold in place I'll grind out the glass, remove the screws, then nice layer around it for sanding, etc... for paint. Been thinking about unbolting the rear tunnel flare. Paint the chassis, then Polish the rear tunnel flare Aluminum and bolt it back on. So rear flare and the dash would be polished aluminum, no paint.


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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I'll get a quart of Epoxy primer next week. Then spray some of the chassis on a nice day...
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
I'm going to cut the top Shield flare off at my tape line. So fiberglass windshield is angled in line with the rear of the hood. One wrong angle catch of the die cut blade and a crack in windshield and I'm DONE, screwed !!! LOL.... GRRRRRR...
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I cut the top off, came out clean, left the side bubble flare for bars and see where they set.. Probably cut the side bubble flare off also later. But it leaves me room for now to see if drag bars fit in. No glasses on, so now have fiberglass powder in right eye LOL... flushing it with wifes saline solution.. Before and after the cut picture....
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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
It's a budget build so because I know painting etc.... I bought cheap Tractor enamel in HOT Kubota Orange so it is heavy duty on chassis... Looks red in my pic GRRRR but it is Orange. I'll use a bit of reducer, bit of hardener, mix it with yellow pearl powder or paste for nice effect. $18.00 a quart LOL..... Will look like $100.00 a quart Tangerine when done.. LOL.... Trust me !!
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It's a budget build so because I know painting etc.... I bought cheap Tractor enamel in HOT Kubota Orange so it is heavy duty on chassis... Looks red in my pic GRRRR but it is Orange. I'll use a bit of reducer, bit of hardener, mix it with yellow pearl powder or paste for nice effect. $18.00 a quart LOL..... Will look like $100.00 a quart Tangerine when done.. LOL.... Trust me !!
View attachment 367835
Ready for paint already, you sure work fast! Did you polish the tunnel extension yet? I used Mother’s aluminum polish on my secondary clutch, turned out all right but the clutch has some small casting pores that just didn’t polish well. With my new sled I’m going to have to sand it flat..then polish; pain in the butt but worth it in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
No it's not ready for paint. I was in the store buying bolt's and saw this paint, so it gave me an idea for cheap paint that would still look good. No polish yet. If your secondary is a Cat you can buy nice insert covers for them instead of polishing it. I used the Diamond plate cover on mine. If I polish my rear tunnel ext... I need stainless steel bolts for it. Regular bolts, washers etc... would show rust. If I decide to polish it I'll use those round flat head allen bolts in stainless steel. I forget what ya call them LOL.. They look like big factory rivets LOL..
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
This ought to be interesting to see how long it holds up LOL... I put fiberglass cloth and resin around hood/windshield seam, then body filler over it to form it. This is NOT something you do with plastic hoods LOL... My only hope is the glass resin, cloth, under it will hold it from flexing LOL... Just like plastic bumpers on cars, YOU JUST DON"T DO THAT !!! Even with paint ya use additive so it will flex.... All my other drag hoods were light fiberglass hoods, this hood is just a stock plastic hood cut up.... Still gotta hit it with 320 grit, then wet sand blend, feather it etc... BUDGET BUILD so good to go what ever happens LOL.

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I want to do away with that hood /shield seam like my other sleds had..

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I want to do away with that hood /shield seam like my other sleds had..

View attachment 367852
From what I remember the present cowling that your working on the name of the plastic is called “Metton” It’s supposed to be able to withstand a impact at -40C and not crack or break. When it first was introduced to the public Ski-Doo went to trade shows demonstrating how durable it was, they would put the cowling in a deep freezer; pull it out and physically bend it on each side. They would also do the same with the belly pans. As for the flexible paint, have you ever tried remote control car paints? It’s a must on R/C car’s, the paint is applied from the inside and has to be flexible because of all the abuse they car’s/ trucks take. Paint can be applied from the outside, but the abuse is a daily occurrence; it would be scratched so badly applying it from the outside.
 

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From what I remember the present cowling that your working on the name of the plastic is called “Metton” It’s supposed to be able to withstand a impact at -40C and not crack or break. When it first was introduced to the public Ski-Doo went to trade shows demonstrating how durable it was, they would put the cowling in a deep freezer; pull it out and physically bend it on each side. They would also do the same with the belly pans. As for the flexible paint, have you ever tried remote control car paints? It’s a must on R/C car’s, the paint is applied from the inside and has to be flexible because of all the abuse they car’s/ trucks take. Paint can be applied from the outside, but the abuse is a daily occurrence; it would be scratched so badly applying it from the outside.
That truck has tumbled probably 100 times, paint is flexible! Clear top is what you get when you buy’m. I know you can’t paint your sleds cowling from the inside but the paint can be applied on the outside.
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