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The arctic cat 440 snopro mod airbox works well to. Alot of guys have been running it.
 

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Hey ndmtnsleddr have you run your Mod airbox since we were in Cooke and how did it effect your Boondocker? Also what is the web site for your Shocktex, I havn't totally desided on the ezryde yet. STill got my options ou there.
 

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I heard from my dealer, whom sells the Timbersled, that in deep snow it won't allow enough cool air to enter the engine. So they were seeing problems with it. So I went with the SLP air horns $35.00 and seems to work great, you might have to boondock it if not already. I run my boondocker -3 pretty much all over, and it runs great. Thats on a m6.
 

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Exactly right!!! I am putting 2 TPI valves into the airbox, and a few more in the plenum on the way down. These are rectangular boxes with foam in them, and you can open or close them. When my windshield intakes are plugging up all the time in deep snow, I will be able to a least draw some air from under the hood. Warm air is better than no air!!!!!! I will try to locate as many of these valves as far away from the pipe as I can.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ndmountainman @ Jan 27 2007, 04:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hey ndmtnsleddr have you run your Mod airbox since we were in Cooke and how did it effect your Boondocker? Also what is the web site for your Shocktex, I havn't totally desided on the ezryde yet. STill got my options ou there.[/b]
No I haven't. My hood ended up cracking from the cables that hold it when its open we tried glueing it at the bodyshop and broke right away again so I'm thinking about just getting a Diamond S hood with the air plenum in it. You do need to add a lil more fuel as it leans it out some but no harder to adjust for then anything else. I have it for sale right now to try and help pay for the new hood.

The website for shocktech is http://www.shock-tech.com/. Also member mk2g60 on a few forums. We were out riding around home on saturday and bart and i both have the same setup with HRP brackets but he still has stock valving can't believe the difference that makes. Much smoother ride then stock.
 

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The Timbersled intake is great as long as you do not ride deep over the hood powder lots.
If you do ride the deep stuff though, it tends to cover the hood too much and starve for fresh air.
In this case i prefer the stock intake with just a couple lowboys installed on the top of the airbox like i have on my 2005 M7.
 

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The timbersled intake shouldn't have that problem with the SLP side vents installed though, should it? The engine should be able to suck fresh air from somewhere no matter how deep the snow is. Just my $0.02.

Just as a sidenote...if one was to measure the plenum vents in the hood of your M sled, you might have four square inches of intake opening, then choke it down to that teeny little neck in the airbox, thats maybe 3 square inches at best. I do find it hard to believe that a hood with all the intake paraphenalia ripped out of it which then utilizes the plenum vents along with the vents in the hood, (some of which may get plugged with snow, but as long as its not ice air will still flow through it) and the vents by your knees, and the holes in the footrests that they would starve for air. I'm no engineer but thinking back to how big the hole was in a Holley 850 carburator, an M hood should flow much more air than the 700 requires, after all the M1000 still uses an identical hood with the same plenum sucking air through the same intake ports.
 

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Yeah, that may be right. The best I would think, would have air coming in next to the tach. Like most Polaris's like the Dragon. Most of the time ALL my vents are plugged, and my side panels are under snow. I think if you had a screen hood may be the best bet with the timbersled. I myself, might just put a flowrite or two somewhere in the intake track up behind the tach then put one on either side of the tach on the out side of the hood.
 

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I really like the stock intake system, it's almost perfect for deep snow, but I added two 2 1/2" flowrites behind the windshield, and cut holes in the intake plenum right behind them. I covered the new holes with some very fine mesh, sprayed with silicone waterproofing (mesh glued on with hot glue gun...works great), just in case snow gets past somewhere. I then used duct tape to tape off the under-headlight area, so no hot air gets in. I haven't really been is serious pow with it since the mod, but I doubt it will have trouble drawing enough air from somewhere... Sorry, no pics, but not much to see, really. Just two flowrites, with holes in the intake duct behind, and duct tape under the hood.

John
 

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My thoughts on the stock air intake are that it doesnt let the engine breathe like it should, there are too many corners the air has to go around before it gets to the engine. They call it "dirty" air, thats the reason the sled leans out when aftermarket air induction is added. Bullets will straighten the flow because they are installed directly in the airbox and air, like anything else will take the path of least resistance. So the way I see it, a bullet in the airbox will flow more cfm per square inch of area than the stock intake will. Take aftermarket high performance automotive induction systems, 99% of them are a pipe with minimal amount of bends to keep the flow clean with an air filter clamped on the end. Oh, and none of them use the accordion hose either, they use a formed hose if they have too.

I have an idea for an induction system I'm going to start working on soon, just need the time.....


:beer_cheers:
 

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My biggest thinking behind ditching the stock air system is there is about 10#s of ducting under the hood and another 10#s probably for the airbox. A mod airbox only weighs a couple pounds.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ndmtnsledder @ Jan 30 2007, 06:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
My biggest thinking behind ditching the stock air system is there is about 10#s of ducting under the hood and another 10#s probably for the airbox. A mod airbox only weighs a couple pounds.[/b]
Good point, and in the end it all boils down to personal preference.


:beer_cheers:
 

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you lose about 7.5 lbs total for the lighter airbox mods,
 

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But what does it cost you for HP, on deep snow days, when all the vents are clogged? I need the HP then, not running down the trail. Dirty air; that's what the airhorn into the plenum is for. It's a tuned system (the air horn and plenum). Loose it and you loose HP, according to DTR. That's my thinking, anyway.

John
 

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I've been told that when you get rid of the stock airbox, you lose power. So it seems the best thing to do is supplement the intakes, sounds like flo rites in the dash work, but it'd be nice to get rid of the junk on the hood
 
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