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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my 2005 Cat since new and have always been amazed by the suspension and awesome ride/ground clearance. It is a bit wide for my trailer (only 4' wide Triton) and some trails that I ride on but I alaways manage to make my way through.

I was very disappointed this past Spring when I got myself into a jam and didn't have enough grunt to back out ...I thought it might have just been the situation I was in. But then it happened again this past Fall when I tried to back out of a spot with a deer on the rear rack and couldn't get it to budge... I had to take the friggin deer of and use a comealong to get out. This was a spot that I used to get out of with my old Suzuki King quadwith no problem at all (super low reverse and only a 280cc engine!). This this is a monster for me with a 400cc emgine...but has absolutely no balls in reverse!! WTF!!!

Also, I have been dissapointed with the poor quality of Arctic Cat's "white metal" castings on things like the shocks. I actually broke two teeth on one shock and three on the other when I tried to increase the spring tension from 2 to 3 (out of 5) with no load on the machine ... they snapped like they were made of plastic or something..,. WTF!!!

It's a shame that Cat makes a quad that pretty much goes anywhere comfortably in forward but cant get out of its own way in reverse...also, why would you use cheap "white metal" castings on suspension parts?????

Another main issue is the friggin carburator that has been leaking gas since I got it...now, I know that Cat doesn't make the carb but they put it on the machine and many people seem to be having the same problem with the damm thing. The last thing you need is to have the *$#%& thing burn up while your 20 miles in the woods!!
I clean the carb and it stops for a while then it starts leaking again!!.....I even put a fuel filter in ...still leaks.

The engine also has this ungodly knocking noise coming out from underneath at certain RPM....WTF!!!...it sounds like its gonna blow up!!

I take good care of my machine and never beat it....In 15 years of riding Suzuki King quads (3 of them) the only problem I ever had was a frozen brake drum!! This 400 has basically been trouble from the start.

I'm pretty close to calling it quits and buying a Big Bear or something...I truly dont know what to do deadh0rse
 

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as with any brand lemons are out there. carb problem sounds like float sticking open (little pin that clicks shut when float goes up), if warrenty left i would try that route if not for around 20 bucks a few parts would be a good try.
as for the power in reverse, i have heard of this before and haven't heard of a solution besides secondary spring which still doesn't help at min speed, just geared way to high in reverse. by chance have you checked you belt setup? is the belt all the way on top of the secondary which gives you the lowest possible gear ratio?
good luck with your decision, like i say every machine has it's strong points and weak points imo, goes for about anything on the market ie. cars ect.
 

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Hey Scandic:

Does that machine have a manual or auto transmission?

The carb issue is probably as previously posted, having float/float needle problems. Pull the carb and check the needle and seat for varnish or dirt. I've also broken off one of the teeth for adjusting the shocks. I no longer use the cheap little adjustment tool. Use a big set of vice grips. That will stop breaking the lands.

My old 1987 Suzuki is a real gem as well. I also had frozen brake issues but learned to work around it. Usually, the 400s are pretty stout machines. If it's an auto, it might be belt issues. Let us know what the fix is.
 

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just to really show you how cheap they are, those adjustors that you are breaking teeth off are onlyType ARC
Part ID: 0403-102
Description CAM,ADJUSTER-SPRING (SM)
Qty:
Unit Price 3.48
each

on a added note with the carb the float should move freely when you push it up and down.
 

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Clutch springs will help the reverse issue on the manual. I had somewhat the same issue even with the 500 manual. Cheap and relatively easy mod. I don't know if you will get the low end from the 300 you are used to but its a start.

WC
 

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That "knocking" noise could possibly the belt if you are in drive. Ive replaced them on 650 V2's thinking it was a rod knock at first.

The carb issue is caused by the float sticking and letting fuel constantly dump in there. I can order the carb and have it shipped to you. But the carb as in the whole thing isnt the problem.

Im thinking your reverse issue could be possibly due to the belt. It might have a burn spot or just wore out.

2 days ago I hooked a 14ft trailer loaded with a TRV and 500 to one of our 400s and pulled it in and backed it out with no problems.

Ive currently got a 400 Big Bear in the shop right now that had about a gallon of gasoline in the crankcase mixed with oil, AND IT STILL RAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ill give that machine props, the only problem its got is a gummed up carb, and bad petcock valve gasket which caused the whole problem, and oddly enough it looks like a Smiley face!#(@
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the responses!

As far as my Cat goes it's a 2005 400i Manual Shift...no belt.

I have a few questions:

1. When you adjust the springs with a pair of channel locks, what part do you grab??...I figured that grabbing those fins would break them easier than using the tool?

2. Are there clutch springs on a manual shift??...and if so, how do springs work to give you a lower reverse??

3. I have cleaned my carb and found black flecks of something in the float tube shutoff every time...do you think that the new gas with ethanol (10% here in Mass) can be causing the problems...like destroying the black tank plastic??

I love this quad...but I need the thing to be reliable and I definitely need a lower reverse and a non-leaking carb.


Thanks forall the help...Joe :site:
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (skandic @ Feb 3 2007, 08:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Thanks for all the responses!

As far as my Cat goes it's a 2005 400i Manual Shift...no belt.

I have a few questions:

1. When you adjust the springs with a pair of channel locks, what part do you grab??...I figured that grabbing those fins would break them easier than using the tool?

2. Are there clutch springs on a manual shift??...and if so, how do springs work to give you a lower reverse??

3. I have cleaned my carb and found black flecks of something in the float tube shutoff every time...do you think that the new gas with ethanol (10% here in Mass) can be causing the problems...like destroying the black tank plastic??

I love this quad...but I need the thing to be reliable and I definitely need a lower reverse and a non-leaking carb.


Thanks forall the help...Joe :site:[/b]

Are you refering to E-85 fuel? I tried running that stuff in my Gti and it didnt like it one bit and I was told the would destroy the fuel pump if I didnt dilute it with premium gasoline. Check your gas cans, it a problem I see very often.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (skandic @ Feb 3 2007, 08:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Thanks for all the responses!

As far as my Cat goes it's a 2005 400i Manual Shift...no belt.

I have a few questions:

1. When you adjust the springs with a pair of channel locks, what part do you grab??...I figured that grabbing those fins would break them easier than using the tool?

2. Are there clutch springs on a manual shift??...and if so, how do springs work to give you a lower reverse??

3. I have cleaned my carb and found black flecks of something in the float tube shutoff every time...do you think that the new gas with ethanol (10% here in Mass) can be causing the problems...like destroying the black tank plastic??

I love this quad...but I need the thing to be reliable and I definitely need a lower reverse and a non-leaking carb.


Thanks forall the help...Joe :site:[/b]

Grab the whole collar with either channel locks or vise grips. The shock adjustment tool breaks off the lands because it puts too much force on a small area of relatively weak material. Sometimes when pulling on the tool to turn the adjustment collar, the tool slips out of proper contact and will bust off the corner of the the land. Vise grips or channel locks will distribute the load over more area therefore, less potential for breaking anything. It works.

A manual shift has a centrifugal clutch. The engagement weights are held it place with springs. As engine rpms build, the engagement weights spread out under centrifugal force to engage the clutch. When rpms drop, the springs pull the weights back. Changing the strength of the springs will change the the rpm/engagement moment. Stronger springs will require the engine to be running at a higher rpm prior to clutch engagement. Running at higher rpm prior to engagement should put your engine in a more powerful part of the power band. So, your engine should have more power available to turn the wheels rather than bogging down. Theoretically, putting in stronger springs should work. The down side is that your engagement rpm will be higher regardless of being in forward or reverse. You may find that to be annoying.

It sounds like your carb problems are from contaminated fuel. Flush the entire fuel system, tank to carb. Clean your carb again. Maybe get yourself a small in-line fuel filter and install it between the tank and the carb. By rights, that should fix your carb problem.

Good luck.
 
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