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Discussion Starter #1
so i was out riding over the weekend on my "new to me" 2002 ZRT 600 and my head lights were up in the trees even on low.
so as i am adjusting them as low as they go i happen to notice my sled sags way down. i assume its because its 18 years young!
if i lift the rear grab bar it comes up 6inches then sags right back down.
i have turned the rear front shock adjuster nut almost to the top of its threads to try to help but it didn't do much
i have a couple questions for the community. please bare with me i am still learning as i go and rebuilding what i can for peace of mind.

1. is there a special name for the front shock in the track area?
2. is there a special name for the near horizontal shock in the rear most shock?
3. what are the metal coils called on the rear track area? would putting in new ones get the ride height up?
4. can you remove the shocks in the track area with it still installed? i.e just unbolt and pull out and put new in and rear bolt or do you have to take the whole assembly out?
5. is it difficult to buy a new shock and install a new spring? i am seeing the spring online is 35 dollars on babbits.com and a shock is 80 dollars new on eBay and amazon.
6. what do the limit straps do in the front of the track area?

any help you guys can give me would be great and helpful. just trying to get this setup up perfect for me.
 

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Those coiled springs are primarily the primary weight bearing i.e ride height, they are called torsion springs. The spring on the front skid shock is really more about suspension performance not really holding up the weight. Most people run this front skid shock spring with no preload just tight enough to keep from rattling. The torsion springs are adjustable, on the short end up by the wheel at the top of the track you will see a triangle, by turning this you can increase the torsions spring pressure. Each side has a different distance from the bolt center. If it is sitting this low with no one on it then the torsion springs are probably sacked out. Personally on an 18 year old sled i would remove the whole skid for any of the work that way you can get a good look at it and do all the servicing. Greasing zerks, replacing idler wheels, replacing the hyfax and freeing up and stuck arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so if i am a 200 pound rider in full gear and luggage what torsion springs would i need? part number and place to order if possible
i have seen the charts on other forums but im not fully understanding all the numbers i.e 110/190 .482
just looking for a good replacement that wont need modifiying to install.
i just set my adjuster blocks to the stiffest setting of 3 on both sides it did help a little but you are right they are sacked out from years of miles and smiles.
 

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I believe the ZRT came with ACT shocks, which were Cat's branded version of Fox shocks, which are rebuildable. These are premium pieces and they perform very well, but they do need to be rebuilt every so-often. Getting all four shocks rebuilt is most advisable and will make a world of difference in how the sled rides and handles.
 

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1. The shock in the front track area is the front track shock, or center shock......This shock and it's coil over spring carries the weight of part of the rider, and can be considered the center of a "see saw" type area of the entire sled. It controls ski pressure and is the "tipping point" of transfer......
2.The rear "horizontal shock" is the rear track shock.......It controls the speed(dampening) at which the rear of the skid goes up and down. It has nothing to do with ride height.
3.The "metal coils" are the torsion springs. They do control the ride height as well as control how much weight it takes to compress the rear of the suspension.
4.It is possible to remove the shocks in the skid without pulling the whole skid out.....I can guarantee that it will be easier to pull the whole skid out......Also, it will allow you to find the real problem which has nothing to do with your shocks(though they may need to be rebuilt), or your springs(which I can almost guarantee are in fine shape).
5.It is not difficult to buy new shocks and springs, but your shock is rebuildable, and your spring is more than likely fine.
6. Limit straps control how far down the front of the suspension can travel before stopping. Letting the limit strap all the way out will let your sled transfer farther back and allow a "wheelie" of sorts.......Pulling the limiters up will put more weight forward and keep more weight on the skis........

My guess is there is corrosion in the axles in the skid causing the suspension to not rebound, and also that the springs on the ski shocks have been cranked up so high(in a wrong attempt to add ski pressure) that the weight is overcentering the "center shock" and putting too much weight on the torsion springs on the rear of the skid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1. The shock in the front track area is the front track shock, or center shock......This shock and it's coil over spring carries the weight of part of the rider, and can be considered the center of a "see saw" type area of the entire sled. It controls ski pressure and is the "tipping point" of transfer......
2.The rear "horizontal shock" is the rear track shock.......It controls the speed(dampening) at which the rear of the skid goes up and down. It has nothing to do with ride height.
3.The "metal coils" are the torsion springs. They do control the ride height as well as control how much weight it takes to compress the rear of the suspension.
4.It is possible to remove the shocks in the skid without pulling the whole skid out.....I can guarantee that it will be easier to pull the whole skid out......Also, it will allow you to find the real problem which has nothing to do with your shocks(though they may need to be rebuilt), or your springs(which I can almost guarantee are in fine shape).
5.It is not difficult to buy new shocks and springs, but your shock is rebuildable, and your spring is more than likely fine.
6. Limit straps control how far down the front of the suspension can travel before stopping. Letting the limit strap all the way out will let your sled transfer farther back and allow a "wheelie" of sorts.......Pulling the limiters up will put more weight forward and keep more weight on the skis........

My guess is there is corrosion in the axles in the skid causing the suspension to not rebound, and also that the springs on the ski shocks have been cranked up so high(in a wrong attempt to add ski pressure) that the weight is overcentering the "center shock" and putting too much weight on the torsion springs on the rear of the skid.

thanks for the answers to my questions. looking at the front shocks the collar is right in the middle so it does not appear that it has problems or cranked up.
also thankfully the last owner was good at greasing the zerks front to back. is that wear the corrosion you are talking about could be? so possibly ordering the new bolts could help?
i will have to look at the parts micro fiche to see if there are collars that may be seized or bearings attached to those bolts.
i figured that after 18 years of riding that they were sagged out so i ordered a new spring for the rear shock, i just ordered new torsion springs from country cat, i asked for a little stiffer then stock and the tech helped me find what i needed for my weight and gear.

do you think it would be cheaper to rebuild the stock skid shocks or buy new?
looking online for a good portion of today i got a pretty good idea that removing the skid is not that difficult but i could be wrong.
thanks again for your help.
 

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I would just rebuild the shocks, that way you could actually have them re-valved specific to your weight and riding. As for the skid, no they are easy to get out, putting them back in can be a challenge but not enough to avoid removing the skid.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So i pulled the skid out and put new torsion Springs in, new center shock and spring for it.
Much better!
Pulled most the suspension apart nothing was seized or broke. It was not to difficult when you take your time.
The torsion Springs i pulled out were flimsy and i was able to bend them by hand. The new torsion Springs are exactly what i was hoping for and really stiffened up the track.

1 more question, my front Springs are a little more then half way cranked up.
Do you think i should loosen the spring pressure up some and bring it down to about 1/3 threaded?


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