Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Kit just got here last night. Now, i have the diamond drive tool, but no other clutch tools. I may be able to borrow a puller for the primary if it has to come off...(does it for the spring and weights?) Other then that, anything i should watch for or keep an eye on when messing around with either clutch? Thanks in advance guys.
Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
The primary will have to come off to replace the spring, and you will need a puller for that. The pullers are cheap, ($20?) and you can get them from your dealer. You don't need to pull the primary off to change weights but I found it does make it easier to take it off and put it on a bench to work on.

Changing the spring in the secondary is very straight forward. Most set the spring tension adjuster about .5 inches in from the aluminum secondary cover. This is a good starting point and is easily adjusted from there for minor RPM changes with the tool you have.

Tips:

When changing the weights, you will likely need to use some heat to break the set screws loose. I used heat and they came out nice and easy. Others have not used heat and have twisted many allen wrenches.

When you reinstall the weights, make sure you have the weights centered in the spider gears or they will hang up and not allow full shift in the primary.

Check for any cracks or obvious wear points on both clutches.

Check allignment and belt deflection.

Ride safe and ride hard!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Upon reassembly I would recommend using blue loctite on every screw etc.
Its ultimately your choice....but I do for peace of mind. :beer_cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, thanks for the couple tips there guys, my buddy guided me through the big things, and we got er done just now. I have a question tho. The replacement belt sheve piece.....Whatever its called, the replacement aluminum part. Do i need to transfer over the o-ring, or anything like that? And how do i actually use it. It has the replacement allen head bolt....its unclear and theres no directions for that part. Thanks guys,
Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Coxy @ Jan 11 2007, 09:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Well, thanks for the couple tips there guys, my buddy guided me through the big things, and we got er done just now. I have a question tho. The replacement belt sheve piece.....Whatever its called, the replacement aluminum part. Do i need to transfer over the o-ring, or anything like that? And how do i actually use it. It has the replacement allen head bolt....its unclear and theres no directions for that part. Thanks guys,
Brian[/b]
That is probably your deflection adjuster; does the bolt have a hole all the way through it (Length wise)? If so, it is the replacement bolt and it vents the DD and is used to bolt the secondary back on to the DD. You turn the adjuster until you have the belt deflection you want. I have a XFire and prefer about 1/8" over the sheeve. I don't think you use the o-ring with the SledJunky kit; call Ron and ask him to make sure. Have you put the new rollers on yet? Let us know how you like it and what performance gains you see. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, the bolt actually has a spot down the threads to vent the DD. So would i wanna run the machine a touch without the secondary bolt in to get the belt adjusted to where its supposed to be, then just tighten the allenhead back up?
The new rollers are on, was cake to do, just gotta have the perfect sized punch, and a strong allen key to push the roller pins out. I couldnt tell you any differences as of yet, hopefully riding on sunday... But i can tell you, 3 out of the 6 rollers (every second one) were pretty mushroomed out, so something will hopefully work better!
Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, got the belt sheeve adjuster all figured out, one last little question hopefully... What would you clutch guru's suggest i baseline set my spring tension adjuster at? Just something that may be a pretty descent, and ill work on it out on the hill. Thanks again guys,
Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
They say 1/2" in off the face of the helix cover as a start (I ended up turning it in another 1.5"). I couldn't get that setup to hold R's on big climbs. Once the track was loaded heavy, it would pull down and you better turn out or grab a shovel.
It built great trackspeed during the climb (3 mph more on average than my other setup) but that is usless if it can't hold it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dmkhnr @ Jan 13 2007, 08:46 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
They say 1/2" in off the face of the helix cover as a start (I ended up turning it in another 1.5"). I couldn't get that setup to hold R's on big climbs. Once the track was loaded heavy, it would pull down and you better turn out or grab a shovel.
It built great trackspeed during the climb (3 mph more on average than my other setup) but that is usless if it can't hold it.[/b]
Turned in 2 inches total....wow talk about spring bind ...yikes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mcflying @ Jan 13 2007, 05:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dmkhnr @ Jan 13 2007, 08:46 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
They say 1/2" in off the face of the helix cover as a start (I ended up turning it in another 1.5"). I couldn't get that setup to hold R's on big climbs. Once the track was loaded heavy, it would pull down and you better turn out or grab a shovel.
It built great trackspeed during the climb (3 mph more on average than my other setup) but that is usless if it can't hold it.[/b]
Turned in 2 inches total....wow talk about spring bind ...yikes
[/b][/quote]

Sounds to me like you should be running a stiffer spring if you need to have the adjuster in that far. What are the complete setups you guys are running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
It didn't need a stiffer spring, in fact I'm still using his black-white team spring with my 36* turned .5" in, it's just too much helix for a twin pipe setup. The 36* gives less low/mid range pull, but will consistently hold R's on a climb. I might give Ron a call and ask if I can get a multi 40-36* out of him, I know of someone else running a tri-angle helix finishing in 36* who says it's the cats meow, so thats an option also.
I'll watch this thread to see how the setup works on a stock sled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
What color spring did you get for your secondary? The sledjunkey kit converts to a team spring. One of the springs I've tried (blk/lt blue) could only have .417 inch from cover preload. Anymore it would bind before it could fully shift out. I had a red/pink that worked pretty good at around .5 inch. These clutches move a total of about 1.2 inches. With the team conversion a preload of .435 will give you advertised 1.1 inch height of compressed spring. The stock setup that came in my 05 M7 could take more preload, how much I can't remember maybe .650? What does all this mean? You will have to figure that out. I would probably start about 1/4 of and inch and depending on which spring came with your kit maybe no more 7/16ths. One more thing these have a tendency to back out after a few rides so when you get it like you want measure it and check it every few rides or if it acts funny.

Moosedog
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the replys so far guys, keep em commin for sure. Moosedog, i have a black/white secondary, and a goldish primary. I also have tapped the cover of the helix and put a set screw in there, so hopefully there will be no backing off. I currently have it at .400 of an inch, but if you guys say less, ill back it off a tad before going out in the AM.
Brian
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top