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Discussion Starter #1
I'm completely PC illiterate so bare with me..I have a 1976 jag that I got running last year and had a bit of fun in the snow until I realized it was completely horrid compared to any other snowmobile.. I knew I would have to change it up for this winter. give me your advice on where I need to take this. there's a rebuilt 488 polaris engine waiting to be dropped in.
 

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Your sled is a "Frankensled," it's got a Polaris front end on it and a TSL skid in the rear. If you really want something that won't be "horrid" try looking for a 97 or newer model, they all have 13.5 inches of travel in the rear and the EFI models will be batteryless.
 

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Good call! I will have to search for a more modern skid. the skid on there, best I could tell, is from a zr580. all the parts from the sled were donated or exchanged for labor. Its kinda the going theme now. Shouldn't have posted this quite yet as the steering hymans aren't connected and need to lay down some glass, but was prematurely excited once the front end was welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do you happen to know if arctic cat chain cases are fairly universal? hoping to install reverse from a mid 90s ac. the shape looks the same but I couldn't be certain.
 

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You really have to get that track flat on the ground as it should be. Looks like barely 2 lugs are on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
track is too tight. suspension is set soft. when set down by hand it's level. it's definitely noticed unsprung. I'd be more worried if it didn't level out with weight on it... is there cause for concern here?
 

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Tight track and soft suspension setup does not change the fact that sled is not sitting correctly. There not a sled around that sits like that from factory. You have changed the geometry of the track angle which greatly affects how it handles in the snow. You’ve drastically changed the height of the front of the sled which you will have a hard time getting that track to sit level. You need to drop front arm down and I bet you will run out of tunnel before track is level. Get this corrected before you even think of adding reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
noted. this is all freshly mounted with nothing adjusted. hence, vice grips on trailing arms. I absolutely plan on addressing the suspension problems.
 

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Good call! I will have to search for a more modern skid. the skid on there, best I could tell, is from a zr580. all the parts from the sled were donated or exchanged for labor. Its kinda the going theme now. Shouldn't have posted this quite yet as the steering hymans aren't connected and need to lay down some glass, but was prematurely excited once the front end was welded up.
That skid is a 97 or newer skid with TSL (torque sensing link). What I meant was, look for a completely different, intact OEM sled!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
run lines into the tunnel... the least of my worries. plenty of room in the tunnel. we drug the chassis around a pasture today to get an idea where we are, steering and suspension wise. feels good especially the suspension. the steering is passable but could be improved. im planning on dialing it in and glassing the belly pan. after this i'll figure out what engine i'll run. the trips was kinda a joke but now everybody want me to do it. plenty of options and the least of my worries now.
 

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You sound like a guy who likes projects! Have at ‘er, have fun and good luck! IMO stick with the 488. It’s way more reliable than that triple.
 

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In all honesty I'm in full agreement with you. The 488 is in all likelyhood going in.
After looking at this thread, it has always been in the back of my mind, (what's left of it) to get a junked up sled of a vintage year that may be beyond repair and put a nice suspension, engine and clutches in it. Looks kinda fun really. If I had more parts here, I think it could be lots of fun as 660catman stated! Otherwise it can get pricey and frustrating. Good luck and keep the pics coming. Glad to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
it's good times! I've got a few more pics of the steering and suspension but i'll wait to break them out until it's tied up nice. I really only did all this for a bit of a challenge. im pulling parts off of three different "junk" sleds. the nicest of the three was the jag. it was a fun little sled until you ran into anything over 2 inches of snow, after that it would want to sink and over taxed the 340 f/a. im kinda partial to this ole gal so I want to make sure it's done fairly well. I'd probably also not have chopped the jag up if it was anything rare. but there's tons of vintage and parts sleds laying around.
 

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it's good times! I've got a few more pics of the steering and suspension but i'll wait to break them out until it's tied up nice. I really only did all this for a bit of a challenge. im pulling parts off of three different "junk" sleds. the nicest of the three was the jag. it was a fun little sled until you ran into anything over 2 inches of snow, after that it would want to sink and over taxed the 340 f/a. im kinda partial to this ole gal so I want to make sure it's done fairly well. I'd probably also not have chopped the jag up if it was anything rare. but there's tons of vintage and parts sleds laying around.
Tight track and soft suspension setup does not change the fact that sled is not sitting correctly. There not a sled around that sits like that from factory. You have changed the geometry of the track angle which greatly affects how it handles in the snow. You’ve drastically changed the height of the front of the sled which you will have a hard time getting that track to sit level. You need to drop front arm down and I bet you will run out of tunnel before track is level. Get this corrected before you even think of adding reverse.
You can also try to bolt the rear of the susupension up into the tunnel more. Put the bolt for the rear arm of the suspension up above the board. Hard to see in the pic just where it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would like to get the rear of the skid into the tunnel but the rear aluminum hangers are wider than the tunnel. I had to narrow the front and re tap threads to fit it where it needed to be. i'll have to figure something out, but at least for now I know approximately where the front will sit and be able to adjust the back accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
like I said I needed to do something different with my steering, here's a couple pictures of how I had it before a major revision, I kinda had my doubts about this setup and it did indeed work... it just didn't seem right.
 

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