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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 98 tcat that bogs intermittently. Sometimes it runs awesome, sometime it bogs where rpms don't go above 4k, backfires and won't move. If I turn it off and let it rest for 5 minutes, there is a good chance it will fire right up and run great for a while. I have gone through carbs completely, cleaned all jets, new spark plugs. Rewound stator from Blaine last year. Compression is 120- not great, not horrible but when it works, it really moves. I'm thinking cdi, spark plug wires or ignition coils. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've been banging my head against this for a year.

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I know the stator is new, but ohm it again and see what your readings are. Sounds like its bad. Blaine is supposedly good but stuff happens. Could it of gotten damaged during installation? Only other thing I can think of is cut off the ground wire from the cdi box and put a new connector end on it. Check all other ground wires by muffler to be clean. Some guys don't have the wire (#23) from engine to chassis. And lastly check your throttle position sensor. May need to by pass it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I measured the stator and got 435 ohms and 23 ohms at 52F. Compensating for temperature puts those at 451 and 24 at 70F. Those seem to be acceptable numbers from everywhere I've looked. I also added a ground wire from the engine ground to the chassis and made a jump wire to bypass the TSS. The ground wire from the CDI looked fine. I haven't taken it out for a longer ride since but hopefully will this week if I can skip out of work early. I also measured the primary ignition coil ohms are .7 which is higher than the manual specs of .29-.39. Don't know if that's an issue. Secondary ignition coil measures 6999, specs are 6320-9480.

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I'm not sure about arctic cat, but anytime I've had cdi problems the motor will completely die (not run at all) then fire right up again. the only podunk way I've tested them is.. run the engine. tap (not hammer) on the cdi with pliers or other. if the cdi is bad it will kill the engine. your simulating vibration. I've put them in the oven for a while if they failed that test (only to try again) if it works fine out of the oven, order a new cdi. like I said though, this doesn't seem like a cdi failure but who knows.
 

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I measured the stator and got 435 ohms and 23 ohms at 52F. Compensating for temperature puts those at 451 and 24 at 70F. Those seem to be acceptable numbers from everywhere I've looked. I also added a ground wire from the engine ground to the chassis and made a jump wire to bypass the TSS. The ground wire from the CDI looked fine. I haven't taken it out for a longer ride since but hopefully will this week if I can skip out of work early. I also measured the primary ignition coil ohms are .7 which is higher than the manual specs of .29-.39. Don't know if that's an issue. Secondary ignition coil measures 6999, specs are 6320-9480.

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I think the .7 is too high. I had a cdi ground end corrode inside and not visible inside the eyelet and luckily died in the driveway infront of the trailer. I cut the end off and white stuff came out. (Corrosion) May be part of your issue as well.
 

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When was the last time you checked coolant level? Is it consuming anti-freeze? When were the o-rings replaced last? Had them go bad and would not pull top rpms. Could be that too. If you check, pull all orings thru your finger tips to see if they are cracked. If so replace. Personally I would replace all of them being that old anyway. Seen lots go bad it is after all 20 years old. If you decide to replace, only use OEM O-rings.
 

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I have a 98 tcat that bogs intermittently. Sometimes it runs awesome, sometime it bogs where rpms don't go above 4k, backfires and won't move. If I turn it off and let it rest for 5 minutes, there is a good chance it will fire right up and run great for a while. I have gone through carbs completely, cleaned all jets, new spark plugs. Rewound stator from Blaine last year. Compression is 120- not great, not horrible but when it works, it really moves. I'm thinking cdi, spark plug wires or ignition coils. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've been banging my head against this for a year.

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I have sleds a do a similar thing. I found the kill switch to be the problem. I bypassed that it an
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Had some time to mess with this sled this weekend and somewhat fixed the issue. I cut the ends off the spark plug wires, installed a ground wire between engine ground and chassis, and bypassed tss by taping over the middle prong on the three prong plug on the steering shaft. It does not bog completely like it used to and at high speed it runs great. Not sure which was the fix that worked but I'm guessing either tss bypass or added ground.

At low speed it is still a bit boggy. My guess is ignition coils since I think they are still the originals from 1998. Bought some new spi coils and will see how they perform when they arrive.

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