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07 AC 500 Auto, EFI Started blowing IGN Fuse after battery change

My factory battery was beginning to drain too quickly, wouldn't seem to hold a charge anymore so I replaced with a crossover I got at O'reilly's. Took it the next day for dove hunt and it worked great that morning. That afternoon I went scouting and all of the sudden, the 4-wheeler just went dead mid throttle. I noticed I had no display. Turned the key off and back on, nothing. Removed the seat and noticed the 10amp Ignition fuse was blown, replaced it, it blew as soon as I turn my key to the on position. Kept doing it, so I removed the 3 diodes plugged in a row at the bottom of the fuse box, stopped blowing but of course now it won't fire, just turn over so I assume one of those diodes fed electricity to my fuel pump/EFI. Finally got it started with a 15amp fuse and only the diode that alloed the fuel pump to work to get my back to my truck. Ive since replaced all three diodes and put the 10 amp back in. Started it and it ran for about 45 seconds and then blew the IGN fuse again, now it blows wehn I turn the key on again?????

HELP:)

KP
 

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Start looking for a shorted wire. Around the column and where the harness comes out of the fuse box are a couple areas to check. Anywhere the zip ties are.
 

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Blowing ignition fuse

You and every other thread points to wiring. My first culprit I think would be the battery because its new, I mean I didn't have this problem until I replaced the battery which then leads me to the voltage regulator but Im not familiar enough with wiring to make that assumption. Like I said in my previous post, when I remove the plug in diodes the fuse stops blowing. If I knew what each of these diodes did, I mean what component they are in line with, then I could narrow it down a lot quicker.

Do you or anyone else here know what those three diodes are feeding electricity to?

Thanks,
KP
 

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You can download wiring diagrams at countrycat.com for free. When it is at rest put a voltage tester on the battery. Then test it when it's running. 12.6 at rest and 13.5-14.8
Running. Make sure the arrows are lined up the same way on your diodes.
 

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Ignition Fuse Problem

Ok, so I checked all the wires in al the places that had cable ties, places where they are against the frame and places where they go into the molded plugs. Can't find any worn, frayed, shorted wires.

I started a series of tests, electrical tests with a meter, that are recommended test procedures in the service manual. Voltages seem correct, as stated up to 5000 RPM's voltage should not exceed +15VDC and I'm maxing at about 14 volts. The only test in which I could find a fault was the "Starter Relay Test". With the meter leads connected to the indicated terminals, voltage should drop to 0; It did not drop all the way to 0 and immediately came back up to +12 so I moved to the next test in which the procedure is to disconnect the 2-wire plug from the starter relay and connect the meter leads accordingly. Once the starter button is pressed you should not get any voltage reading but I immediately get 12volts in which case the manual says to replace the starter relay.

Could this be the cause? If I over fuse the circuit, only to a 15 amp fuse, it doesn't blow which leads me to believe I have a bad component because if I had a dead short it should (not always) blow a fuse that is only 5 amps over.

Feedback?? Thanks for you help by the way.
 

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Never over fuse.
 

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Ignition fuse problem - Now a new Problem

Ok so I thought I fixed the issue. I moved wires around, cut cable ties, cleaned some connectors and then abra cadabra, no more blown fuses.......UNTIL, I hit the 2wd/4wd switch on the right handlbar and BLAM the fuse blew immediately. I thought it may be the relay so I started changing the relays, no go, blows the fuse immediately if I fit that switch. I tried pulling the cover off in the middle of the bars that houses the speedometer, ignition switch etc but I can't get it all the way off becasue I can't unscrew the ignition switch nut.(I assume the plastic nut around the key unscrews). Anyway, starting pulling the wires out, removing the mile of electrical tape around the birdnest of wires, and performed the routine checks per the manual at the connectors with resistance and voltage, all seems ok. I replaced the fuse with a 15amp fuse, no more blowing but if I hit the 2wd/4wd switch I don't here the actuator start to whirl like I did when it worked but the "4wd" icon pops up on the display. Becasue I over fused it I flip the switch back fairly quickly. Seems like if the actuator was bad I would hear grinding or something, right?
 

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Disconnect your actuator and try it.sounds like your actuator could be the problem.
 

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I have a 2006 arctic cat 400m. It just recently started blowing ignition fuses. I spent two hours checking the harness and the fuses and found nothing. I figured out if i put a bigger fuse in it it will run for awhile but eventually blow it. Anyone have any ideas??:huh:
When the fuse blows I lose everything, display, engine, all of it. So I dont know where to start and I really don't want to take it to the local dealer. He is a rip off.
I had a neighbor who had the same problem with a 2002 250 arctic cat atv. Kept blowing fuses and engine died as soon as he appled either left, right or foot brake. The left front brake sensor wiring harness was melted. Each brake handle have the same sensor harness which activates the rear tail light. The rear tail light and the ignition system use the same fuse. I believe he put a to high amp fuse in it. I replaced the harness thinking it had shorted out. The problem was still there. I removed the rear tail light/brake light bulb and examined it. One of the filaments was broken and touching the other element. Every time one of the brake levers was activated the current was trying to run the operate the brake light,ignition system and the head lights and tail light. Fuse could not handle the load. Replaced brakelight/tail light bulb. Runs great no problems. Check your brake wire harness for shorts if bulb does not fix problem.
 
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