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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if you guys are getting sick of this. :( I think this prob still goes back to this thread.
http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php...ic=41203&hl

I went to fire up the ZRT again tonight. Started great and idled for the first 3 minutes then it just died and wouldn't start again. Spark looked crappy (not a scientific measurement I know) then it decided not to give me any spark at all.

Measured the value on the ignition circuit of the stator and it was 1.2 Megaohms but should be 480 Kohms.

I took the stator out and decided to give it a little test. It was now reading 960 Kohms at this time. I had the work light sitting there so I decided to leave my multimeter attached and leave the stator sitting on top of the light to see what happens when it warms up a bit. Went and did something else for about 5 minutes and when I came back it was at 480 Kohms.

I suspect this confirms it's my stator that's been giving me grief. My only concern is that this resistance value is taken through the CDI unit. So I guess it still could be something with the CDI, but I figure they aren't likely to fail this way.

I guess I'm thankful that at least I have lost any riding time yet. I think this will pretty much guarantee we'll get our only blizzard of the season while the stator's getting rewound. bang your head
 

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I am having problems with my zrt, intermittent spark, will not start, and then it will start and run great a few minutes then cut out at higher rpm/speed, then bogs down and dies. I got a rebuilt stator and it is doing the same thing, I changed the coils and it is doing the same thing, I am down to thinking the CDI is my problem that I thought for sure was my Stator. Anyone know if the timing pickup sesor can cause these problems? Good luck with yours!
 

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I read somewhere that when a CDI goes, its gone... it doesnt work intermitently..... been wrong before thou...


BM...
 

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Unplug the 4 wire plug that comes out of you're stator near the recoil. jump the wires that are not yellow on the plug coming from the stator. This will bypass the complete wiring harness. You will have to unplug this jumper to shut off engine cause none of the kill switches work. If the engine runs good after this then the stator is good, plug back in. Usually if the CDI box is the problem than it will not have any spark. Week spark is from a lack of power. A bad ground or a short will cause this also. I had a problem with heat at the harness near the hinges for my hood. Bare wire touched bottom of pipe and shorted. Ran like crap. Skidiver01 it sounds like you're carb safety switches. Here are pages from my service manual.
 

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I have said this before. You guys with so called stator problems. You should clean all the connections from the stator to the coils, CDI box. Antifreeze gets dripped on these connections every time you open the coolant. It will KILL the connections.....I HAVE SEEN IT FIRST HAND!!!!!!
 

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Also when you test the Stator do it cold. Then take a hair dryer and warm it up and see how much the reading will change. It may test good cold but hot its junk.
 

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I may be wrong here but I figure a stator is basically a motor used in reverse so an electric motor shop would likely be able to rewind it instead of sending it out. Knowing your skill level you may also be able to rewind it yourself, Sayal electronics has the wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DansBlown73Nordic @ Dec 30 2006, 06:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Also when you test the Stator do it cold. Then take a hair dryer and warm it up and see how much the reading will change. It may test good cold but hot its junk.[/b]
That's kinda what I assumed, but it looks like mine is failing in the opposite manner. I guess a coil of wire can either short out or open up. I suspect since my resistance has increased in the colder temps it's more likely an open wire and the heat makes it expand and poof back to normal.
For the past 5 months I've assumed my problem has been the stator connections, but after cleaning them a multitude of times and using no grease and different dialectric greases there's gotta be something else going on. I've also played with the wires checking for continuity and wires all seem ok.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Wayne from Pontypool @ Dec 30 2006, 09:20 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I may be wrong here but I figure a stator is basically a motor used in reverse so an electric motor shop would likely be able to rewind it instead of sending it out. Knowing your skill level you may also be able to rewind it yourself, Sayal electronics has the wire.[/b]
I'm not sure I'm prepared to rewire my own yet without a spare on hand. :) There's a local guy that's really good, I'm hoping he'll do it for me.
 

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I have an extra one that is JUNK.....I will donate if you pay the shipping....
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (skydiver01 @ Dec 29 2006, 10:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Anyone know if the timing pickup sesor can cause these problems? Good luck with yours![/b]
very possible

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (blackmax @ Dec 29 2006, 11:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I read somewhere that when a CDI goes, its gone... it doesnt work intermitently.....



been wrong before thou...[/b]
:thumbsup:



me too, nothing new

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DansBlown73Nordic @ Dec 30 2006, 06:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I have said this before. You guys with so called stator problems. You should clean all the connections from the stator to the coils, CDI box. Antifreeze gets dripped on these connections every time you open the coolant. It will KILL the connections.....I HAVE SEEN IT FIRST HAND!!!!!![/b]
good idea :thumbsup:

one find a couple yrs ago was the actual contact between the ENGINE CASES and STATOR MOUNTING PLATE that affected the dealer I was at for the previous 2 yr before that,, new cdi's, stators, coils,, etc,, etc,, etc, were tried to no avail,,,,,,, check and clean these areas too along with the stator to mounting plate contact also,,,

even though this is a ''closed circuit'' system, this will affect it i've found,, and ironically, it was another '95 zrt800
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK guys, some disturbing new info. I will try and keep this as simple as possible.

There are 2 four wire connectors coming off the stator. One is sort of like the trailer connector style goes to handle bar switches etc. the other one plugs directly into the CDI.

The trailer connector style one has 2 yellow wires for the lighting circuit (I'm pretty sure) and it ohms out fine so we'll forget about that one.
There is also a brown wire with and eyelet that goes to chassis ground.

the forth wire is purple/black stripe and I was using that to take my measurement from for the 480 kiloohms. I had my other lead on the ground of the CDI and I made sure the 2nd connector was plugged in so it could complete the circuit.

I started taking some of the shrink tube off the stator connector wiring and discovered the purple/black stripe wire goes directly between the two connectors underneath all that shrink tube and not through the stator at all.

Now I don't know if any of my previous assumptions are accurate. The stator still has 3 other wires going to the CDI that could affect the resistance I suppose tho.
 

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A few years ago I had a 580 EXT efi with an intermitten Cutout. ALL STOP!!! Blown Fuse!!
Started with the grd. OK
Got wiring diagram and started tracing all wiring.
This was 6 yrs ago so please bear with me.
I found a power wire, that was included in the kill switch circuit, that ran up to the instrument cluster.
After removing all the zip ties & pulling the covering off I found that wire had been rubbing on the frame at the bottom and had worn thru covering and insulation.
This was where it bent going from chassy to hood.
Upon closer inspection I found the burn mark on the chassy were it had shorted out.
Had I not pulled all the wires apart and done a careful inspection that one spot could easily have been missed.
This sled had fuses so it was obviously a short that was the problem.
With the newer sleds and no fuses ie:direct drive, maybe a short in the harness is causing your problems.
Check any points were there are bends or possible rubbing.
Hope this might help.

My $.02
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Dec 29 2006, 09:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Unplug the 4 wire plug that comes out of you're stator near the recoil. jump the wires that are not yellow on the plug coming from the stator. This will bypass the complete wiring harness. You will have to unplug this jumper to shut off engine cause none of the kill switches work. If the engine runs good after this then the stator is good, plug back in. Usually if the CDI box is the problem than it will not have any spark. Week spark is from a lack of power. A bad ground or a short will cause this also. I had a problem with heat at the harness near the hinges for my hood. Bare wire touched bottom of pipe and shorted. Ran like crap. Skidiver01 it sounds like you're carb safety switches. Here are pages from my service manual.[/b]

I have different carbs with no safety switches, still looking for the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I put the new stator in today. After 3 tries of getting the orientation correct bang your head I got it running.

Now it seems I'm back to my original problem of bog when over 2000 rpms just like that video in the first link.

Now I was able to bypass the stator connector and it runs perfect.

Even better I was able to duplicate the problem, where every time in the past the problem always disappeared.

When I check resistance on the other half of the stator connector I have about 0.7 ohms so that means my key, tether and kill switch should all be fine. Even after stress testing them the resistance was still low.

I've come to the conclusion that I possibly have a bad Throttle Safety Switch Bypass. Since the sled was bypassed before I got it I'll have to do some digging and find all the wiring.

At least it'll be nice and warm tomorrow.
 

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Your 95 runs a closed ignition, you may have a short or a broken wire somewhere.
A way to check and make sure is to take and put a jumper on the stator.
if you take the 4 wire rubber plug coming off the stator that has the 2 yellow, a brown wire and a black, red, purple or green wire(depending on year).

Take the jumper that came in the tool kit or make one up, Take and plug the jumper in the 4 wire plug and jump the 2 wires that are not yellow, that is the ignition circuit.
the jumper wire will loop the circuit and the sled will run only, Nothing will work on the sled.
You will have to turn the engine off by unpluging the jumper only.
This will check the electronics and rule out everything else.

I have one that has just been rewound by Stator Corp with a 2 year warranty if you are interested
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey snow 800, thanks for that offer, I already picked up a stator tho. I did use lots of your advice tho. Not worthy:

Here's an update. Since I was able to use the stator jumper to fix my bog and I was able to duplicate the problem 4 times, I ended up taking out all the TSS connectors that were hidden under the cowling. The person who did it, pigtailed the wires and used electrical tape. I removed all the connectors and soldered and heat shrinked the two ends that were left. As of now there is no more bog after 2000 rpm.

After this I took it for a run around the yard and it loaded up and died in the backyard. I couldn't get it to start again so I left it for the night.

This morning I could follow the oily exhaust trail around the yard so I figure it's time to readjust the choke plungers since I adjusted them back in august when I was initially diagnosing the bog.

This was enough to get it running but only on 2 cylinders due to a fouled mag side plug. Of course this is the one I kept testing with a spare plug checking for spark. Now it's running as it should.

Looks like most problems were self induced or induced by others before me. Whether the stator was ever bad or not, I'm sure I'm better off with a fresh one in there and I did do the stator housing MODs already this summer.

Few weeks ago I redid the fuel line from the tank to the fuel shutoff as well just as FB did.

Definitely needs testing but with all the rain yesterday and today it's a little too muddy.

I remain cautiously optimistic.
 

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sounds like you got it solved, i hate those damm fussy intermitent probs. Soon we'll be riding!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Wayne from Pontypool @ Jan 6 2007, 07:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Thats great news, all set for the weekend, looks like we can do some 54 foot open water crossings on my skating rink bang your head :nosnow:[/b]
I think I'll be canceling for the 13th. Figured I'd better save up all the chances I get for when the snow arrives.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (thundercat900 @ Jan 7 2007, 04:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
sounds like you got it solved, i hate those damm fussy electrical probs. Soon we'll be riding![/b]
Played around some more with it today and it is sounding really nice. Just dying to get out on it now. Already booked time off beginning of Feb. Really wanna do that RAP tour. I'll book more time end of Feb too likely.
 
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