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Discussion Starter #1
I put new hyfax in when I replaced a destroyed driveshaft bearing, and now I'm getting a fast clicking\rubbing noise and vibration whenever I hit a bump.

I think it's the cleats in the track popping over the ends of the hyfax as I couldn't find anything else that appeared to be rubbing. I trimmed the hyfax so it should be as short as it was before, and it didn't rub then. So maybe with the new bearing the rear idler wheels don't stick as far out as they used to?

I'm wondering if this is something normal that happens, or if my suspension is out of whack.
 

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Hyfax don't come exact length and need to be cut to size. They can't protrude past rails at the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did do that. I forgot to compare them before i put them on, so just trimmed them to the end of the rails with a bevel that matched the rail (vs a 90 degree vertical cut). Hmmm.. i guess the old hyfax might have stopped short of the full rail... In which case this would make sense.

In any case, as long as its just the hyfax and not something I did to the suspension, I can live with the noise. I imagine the hyfax will wear down soon enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The rear shock front mount it flipped and rubbing on the drivers on the track (or at least that's my bet). If it is get to it quick before you destroy your track.

K
I looked and I don't see it rubbing, at least at rest. Not sure what it does under compression, when the noise is really apparent. I'll upload a photo as soon as I can - it doesn't look like it is flipped, but I'm not sure I'd recognize it if it was. The bolt holding the shock at the top did appear to hit the inner nubs, so I replaced it with a shorter bolt, but no effect on the noise.
 

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If it's not the shock, which is something that can flip easily if you are not paying attention when reinstall the skid and it sounds like you got the Hyfax installed correctly...Did you properly set the track tension and align it after everything was assembled? If the track is loose it could jump the drivers. You did make sure the chain adjuster was set correctly?

K
 

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Not sure what sled you’re working on but this is a picture of arm flipped down. Bottom of shock should be above wheel center.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
My bad, it's a 2002 4-stroke touring I'm working on. hmm --- that picture is what the shock looks like on the upper side. Not sure about the bottom end. going out now to take a look (and plow the driveway). The chain tensioner is the external kind - I used a set screw to keep it from unwinding when I had it out. It appeared to put proper tension on the chain when I replaced it.

I used a scale this time, and the deflection on the track was about 7/8" at 20 lbs... think it used to be much looser when I had to eyeball it last year. Alignment is good -- doesn't change when I ran it with the track suspended and let it stop on its own. I got a feeling you are right about the shock flipped down. Will upload pics in a half hour or so.
 

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And this is on my 2006 T660 Turbo Touring
 

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I seem to recall the Touring's arm stands up more than the trails. We're all talking Touring machines here so that's not a big deal just something I've observed.

Are those Delrin bushing in your shock? I was going to replace some rubber ones and then saw that AC wanted $15.00 per side, $60 per shock seems stupid expensive. I saw some people were making delrin ones.

K
 

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I seem to recall the Touring's arm stands up more than the trails. We're all talking Touring machines here so that's not a big deal just something I've observed.

Are those Delrin bushing in your shock? I was going to replace some rubber ones and then saw that AC wanted $15.00 per side, $60 per shock seems stupid expensive. I saw some people were making delrin ones.

K
Kopeck, they are Cat's 0604-310 bushings that RTR Custom Fab aka @ricktherocket sells for the ATV's. The T660 takes the same bushings on the rear skid shock and the front ski shocks. However, they were a little loose so I cut the flange of two of the bushings to add width to fit snug in between the arms. That's why one looks wider. It's the same on the top eyelet too. I bought enough to do the ski shocks too but they were still good. The skid shock ones were destroyed.
 
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yep, the arm being flipped down was the problem Thanks for suggesting that - a new track would be half the value of the sled. :D

Is this something I can fix with the skid in place, or do I need to remove it again? Not sure if those rods are under tension.
 

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Check this post at the end. Exact same issue was resolved quickly

 
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You can unbolt the shock and rods and do it that way but I'm going to tell you it's PITA to get all those holes lined up again. Just unbolt the rear of the skid, get the tension off and you can rotate that sucker back into place.

We had this happen on a Bearcat. Took out all the center drivers before we caught on. You think your track is spendy... We're pretty sure it happened at the dealer when we had them replace drive shaft bearings. Usually I work on all the club sleds but it was a super snowy winter so we wanted it back ASAP. That's how it goes...

K
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ouch! Well I'm counting myself very lucky then.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I got it fixed last night, and initial spins with the track suspended sound good. Hoping to take it out tonight. I didn't have fun the first time I reconnected the rear skid bolts, so I just loosened the track and unbolted the rods & shock absorber at the top. It was kind of a pain to get my hands in there, but easier for me than the skid bolts. Fingers crossed that was the only problem.
 

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Sounds good!

A quick tip, if you unhook the springs up front it allows you to manipulate the rear arm a lot more. I put a floor jack under the track/skid with the tunnel suspended and wiggle stuff into place. The touring machines are harder than the trails. Sometimes they just pop in, others you have to use a lot of "special words" to make it happen.

If you do the spring thing, be careful putting them back on. :)

K
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was hoping to post a quick update now that I'm back from a weeks sledding in Wisconsin, and that everything is working great. I am back, and the track is no longer grinding, but somehow I added new problems.

When the engine is cold and idling, there is now a knocking sound. It seems to go away when warmed up. Also, the exhaust is much louder, though the muffler is in good shape. I haven't had a chance to look hard at it yet, I'm hoping it's just a bad spring or gasket.

The last thing, my wife had it out today for the first time since I replaced the bearing. She said it ran normally, just that it was louder and that the speedometer worked. On the way back she tipped it over (not on purpose) and in the few minutes it was on its left side, most of the oil drained out. I'm thinking that shouldn't happen 🤔

I'm going to take a better look at it tomorrow.
 

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Knock or pop? I wonder if you have a valve that's out of adjustment. They can make your machine miss/pop when cold, as they warm up the gain a little lash and run better.

As far as the exhaust just look everything over really well. The '02 muffler is unique but I feel like a newer one could go in it's place if necessary.

Oil came out eh? How long was it over? Out the oil fill, maybe the dip stick?

K
 
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