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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For this how-to I'll be using a 2005 Arctic Cat 650, your wiring colors may differ but the general concept is the same for most four wheelers.


Step 1:
Figure out where you're going to mount your light. I'm using a Whoolie Shop 12 LED Flexible strip in Pure White, The best way to pick a location for the light is to wire 12 volts to it and hold it in a few spots to see where puts out the best. Mine happened to be actually on the bumper. Under the tail light would have worked had I not had the large bumper blocking part of the light.



I used blue masking tape folded back over itself to stick the led in the approximate spot on the bumper just so i could stand back and make sure it was aimed properly.




Once satisfied on the mounting location, you should clean the mounting area with an alcohol pad. 3m Adhesive is good stuff but it does not stick well to dirt.



Once mounted, power it back up to verify that it's aimed properly then begin routing your wires up toward the CVT side of the bike. The main wiring harness is here and you can follow it easily.



Next pull the side plastic cover off held on by three push rivets, then remove the rubber boot going from the CVT up beside the airbox. You should now be able to access the wiring between the carb and CVT. You're looking for a harness coming out of the engine running up to the main harness: It has the following wire colors in it (Red, Black, Gray, Green, White)



The red wire is the one we want as according to the 650 wiring diagram it reads a ground whenever the bike is shifted into reverse. To make sure we have the right wire test it with a meter set to the OHMS position. Shift the bike into any gear EXCEPT reverse and skin back the insulation on the red wire. Connect one lead of the meter to ground and the other to the red wire. The meter should read OL or open circuit aka infinity with the transmission in any gear except reverse.




Next shift into reverse, the meters reading should change to 0.00 or 0.01 nearly zero.. This shows that the red wire is grounded when in reverse.



We also need a +12 volt SWITCHED power source, if you hook it directly to the battery the light will come on any time the bike is in reverse regardless of key switch position.

There just so happens to be a +12 volt source nearby, the brake switch. Unplug the 2 pin connector and the orange wire will have 12 volts on it whenever the ignition switch is on.



Chase your wires down to this point and connect the colored wire of the reverse light to the ORANGE wire and wire the black wire of the reverse light to the RED wire coming from the harness. You can do this any number of ways, I soldered and taped them.



Tidy all your wires up then turn on your key switch, shift into reverse and tada! Automatic Reverse Light.
 

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Very nice!! Wheres that brake switch at? I need to go back and tap into a keyed power wire as mine is just directly to the batt.
 

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found out on the 700h1 the reverse wire i red/yellow, at least the one i found was
 

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Looks good!! This should be pinned.
 

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That was fast lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The brake switch is at the foot brake pedal. Follow the wires to a two prong plug mine was tucked behind the frame about eight inches from the brake pedal on the vertical part of the frame. Close to the cvt intake


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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just an fyi for you pondtunes i got my stuff installed today and it works great and my plug for the foot petal was up by the gas filler neck... really easy to find
 

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Would it not be better to use a water proof 12v realy and tie it into the light switch leg on the key switch to the relay coil..that way you will only operate the back up light when the all the lights on on (night time). Still run the reverse wire thru the relay and same with power, can even come off the battery and fuse the power side. Also just a suggestion use connectors of some sort rather than a solder connections. Connections that rely on solder alone is not a good idea. Solder can crack, bend back and forth and break or if overloaded and hot enough can soften the connection and break.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Tyco-Relay-SPDT-Formerly-Bosch/dp/B000P61E36/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1305420079&sr=1-4[/ame]
 
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mine is switched at the pod (i tapped into it up there) and the other is soldered, heat shrinked and taped by the filler neck. i can see uses for the reverse light without headlights on so i used just regular switched power so its on every time in reverse... (i do quite a bit of town driving in my home town)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Would it not be better to use a water proof 12v realy and tie it into the light switch leg on the key switch to the relay coil..that way you will only operate the back up light when the all the lights on on (night time). Still run the reverse wire thru the relay and same with power, can even come off the battery and fuse the power side. Also just a suggestion use connectors of some sort rather than a solder connections. Connections that rely on solder alone is not a good idea. Solder can crack, bend back and forth and break or if overloaded and hot enough can soften the connection and break.

http://www.amazon.com/Tyco-Relay-SP...4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1305420079&sr=1-4
You could wire it into the lighting circuit however I was going for simplicity with this howto. If you're using a low draw light such as an LED strip a relay isn't required.

As for using a tap over solder I'd stand by my solder job over any crimp on connector any day. Solder offers zero resistance where as other connectors can corrode or vibrate loose over time. When done properly the solder soaks down into the wires bonding the individual strands together the wire should break before the solder Wrap the connection well in tape or use heat shrink if you wish and it's good to go from now on


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If I had a soldering gun I'd do that to mine lol, yours looks nice! I just used those crimp connectors that clamp on, so I didnt have to cut or strip any wires and I silconed the crap out of em.

400LE, did you ever post any pics of your install in another thread and where did you mount yours?
 

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I'll work on that this week. Have some other stuff I gotta do but all my locations for wiring are covered now lol
 

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use a relay and a 3 position toggle switch (on-off-on) then you can have a work light (on all the time as long as the key is on) or switch to the other on position and have the light on only when in reverse. i wired mine this way and is real handy especially if you have to pull your "wheelin buddy" out of his "stuck" situation at 3am 5 miles from home. if ya need more info let me know thanks.
 

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08ac700 - More info is requested on your switch install. The one side is on the ignition switch power lead and the other side is to the reverse power lead. how did you hook up the relay to operate both sides of the switch then? I do better at looking at things, can you make a little diagram showing where the wires go?
 

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2004 400 4x4 FIS with manual transmission
First I removed the airbox to gain access to the wires coming from the reverse switch. You can unplug the reverse switch wires (3 prong trailer type) to make it easier to access. The wire to splice into for the switched ground is the blue wire with the white stripe. You can slide the sleeving back or split it to make room for the splice. There is also a 12v switched connector (2 prong trailer type) near the main harness with an orange and black wire, the orange wire is the 12v needed to power your light. I then routed the wires along the main harness to the taillight area.
 

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I bought a 15w, 5 LED light bar from SuperBrightLeds.com for $39. I mounted the light bracket to the frame using a 1 inch x 1/4 inch stainless u-bolt from Lowe’s. I had to grind a small amount off of the light fins to get a socket on the bolts. I connected the light to my wires using Delphi weather pack connectors.
 

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