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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I smoked my wet clutch again, ( I replaced it the first time with a used one which lasted about 6 months)

Anyways I won't pretend that it just failed for no reason motor had ingested some sludge and I figure that did it.

Anyways I figured this go round I would give the upgraded wet clutch shoes that Airdam sells a shot, I called them up and explained my problem and they promptly shipped me out a set. Adam also had me check my clutch drum to see if it was grooved, it was so I had a machine shop turn it down so that it was nice and smooth.


This is what my wet clutch drum looked like when I tore it down. If you need help tearing the bike down this far follow this guide: http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/uti...l-info/305631-h1-clutch-side-disassembly.html


Anyways, if your drum is grooved up it will easily press out of the bearing. The shaft & drum come out together as a unit, there are no hidden clips or anything holding it in place just press it out.



Heres what the drum looked like after being machined nice and smooth face for my new clutch shoes.


If you're replacing your wet clutch with a new wet clutch from arctic cat you'll replace the whole thing as a unit. If you buy the upgraded shoes from Airdam you'll have to dis-assemble your old wet clutch and install the new shoes.


We start here, once the inner clutch housing is removed we are looking directly at the wet clutch assembly and retaining nut. When you pull off the housing your one way bearing may be sitting on the flat area behind the nut or might be in the drum, regardless be sure to put it back in the same way otherwise engine braking will not work!

The nut is a 22 mm and is REVERSE threaded, meaning you'll have to tighten it to remove it. It also will have quite a bit of red loctite on it and will probably require heating with a torch to melt the loctite. It is on there REALLY tight. Use an electric impact and melt the loctite and you should be good to go.



Once you have the wet clutch assembly out lay it face down and you should see some E clips, note how they are installed with the opening toward the outside, this is to keep them in place and to minimize any chance of centrifugal force slinging them off... Put them back on this way.


A small flat blade screwdriver will remove them easily, mine had a mark where the E clip went that made it easy to put them back in the same orientation.

There are 5 e clips holding the larger retaining ring on remove them and it will come apart easily.


Remove the retaining ring and set it aside, you'll want to clean all of this really good prior to re-assembly. I usually use ether because it evaporates quickly and cleans well. Lay this piece upside down and stack the next pieces on top of it so you don't get them mixed up.


The next ring is tapered, and appears to push outward against the retaining ring to keep pressure on the E clips, again lay it upside down on top of the retaining ring to ensure you put it back the right way.


Remove the third ring and lay it upside down on top of the other two, you should now see the wet clutch shoes and springs.


This tool isn't required but it worked perfectly for removing and installing the springs attached to the wet clutch shoes. Its an exhaust spring tool I had in the toolbox. A pair of needle nose pliers work too but this is by far the greatest spring tool ever.


Unhook the springs as you work your way around the clutch, once the springs are removed, the wet clutch shoes will lift right out.



This is a comparison of the old shoes vs new shoes. The ones on the left are the new ones from airdam and they have nice deep grooves in them. The worn out stockers on the right are almost completely worn smooth.



Now that the shoes are removed take each part and clean it real well, again I used ether to get off any oil residue or gunk or sludge that was in the wet clutch assembly. Wipe it all down then install the new shoes.

You can now install the new shoes in place of the old ones. Please note there is a large bump on the OTHER side of the shoes, just opposite the hole in each shoe shown on this picture. It goes inside an elongated hole in the plate on the bottom. (im sorry I didn't get a picture of this at the time but if you install them upside down you'll never get the backing plate on and probably will have a hard time hooking the springs back up! Anyways installation is pretty much the inverse of removal, hook the springs up one at the time, working your way around.



Install the backing plate, tapered ring and retaining ring, the tapered ring will push outward and you'll probably want to use a C clamp to put slight pressure on the ring to make installing the E clips easy.

Just put enough pressure on the retaining ring to allow you to install the E clip, I don't know if you can damage the retaining ring by putting too much pressure on it but I sure didn't want to find out.

Remember! Install your E clips so the open end is to the outside of the clutch shoes, if one of these things comes off at high RPM it probably won't be good!


Once your wet clutch is re-assembled airdam recommends to soak them in Genuine Arctic Cat oil as long as possible before re-assembly.. I left the whole assembly soaking for a day then put my bike back together. He also recommended that I run nothing but Genuine Arctic Cat oil in a wet clutch bike.

So far so good, I managed to get two good rides in on it and it locks up fast and holds tight. Now my starter has died and i'm deadlined again... My engine oil looks nice and clean, before I could change it and after a ride or two it looked nasty and wasn't clear. I assume it was my wet clutch slowly burning up.
 

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Excellent write up with great pics!! This is some great info that will for sure help people get an idea how to rip it down to the wet clutch and replace the shoes!!
Excellent write up!!
 

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X2 excellent write up!! Anyone think this should be pinned?
 

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This should be pinned for sure, good job Pondtunes
 

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Ok this has been pinned!!! Nice job pond!!
 

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I don't understand the whole use only Arctic Cat oil thing. I use Shell Rotella T 15/40 and haven't had any issues. I'm going to switch to Amsoil synthetic 0w40 for the next oil change. Actually my friend who is a Suzuki tech said that Suzuki and AC oil is made by Valvoline. One thing I wish I would've done when I installed my new wet clutch shoe pack was to soak it like you did. I just dunked it in oil a few times then installed it. But before I fired it up I did crank the engine a few times w/o fuel of spark to prime the oiling system. Did that because I rebuilt the top end along with the wet clutch. So far I haven't had any issues with anything so knock on wood.

Btw great write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To each his own, Adam suggested to only run the AC oil. So I figure ill follow his advice Seeing as the shoes run $230 I'm not taking any chances.

I will say that I ran rotella previously on my old wet clutch and one ride after an oil change my oil looked nasty..

With this AC oil my oil looked clean after one ride. Time will tell. But for now I'm not chancing it


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Any updates on how these are performing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've got a dead starter and just haven't ordered a new one yet. Supposed to ride this weekend I guess I better get moving.


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Ummmm pull start. Lol pretty soon every single piece on that bike will be new or rebuilt !!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah pull start is okay to get you back home but it sure sucks otherwise! Yeah this is the 650 of doom. I'm sure glad I got it for a reasonable price because I've dumped enough cash into her to have purchased another quad.




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How can I get just replacement shoes for my 450i? I called air dam and they said they don't sell shoes they only modify your stock stuff.. I thought that sounded weird cause there sight makes it look like you can just buy, shoes, rollers, springs, etc, but now I see this thread and see he shipped only shoes out to someone makes me scratch my head. Thanks in advance.
 

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I'm also thinking on the shoes, either that or going to his WCD.
 

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Speaking of this, how these been holding up?
 

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One more question... how long does the stock wet clutch last usually? I know there are a lot of factors that affects that but i want to get an idea of when i would need to change it
 

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8 years five of them with 28" or larger tires and no problems. Do regular oil changes with wet clutch safe oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
One more question... how long does the stock wet clutch last usually? I know there are a lot of factors that affects that but i want to get an idea of when i would need to change it

The wet clutch is an item that should last a very long time... Reason arctic cat doesent sell wet clutch pads is because they're not supposed to wear out often. Usually some sort of abuse kills them.


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Thank you for all your answers ;) i have a 2008 arctic cat 700 efi and i ride a lot in snow. I now have 25.5" pitbull tires, the reason i didn't go for bigger tires is that i feel it lacks power, it is allright in low but then revs out to high usually but in high it doesn't seem to hav the power to go over 50km per hour... it might be related to shifting to higher gear and missing the rpm to be able to rev higher... i was wondering of the wet clutch might be giving me problems... but the bike only has around 4000km on it and only around 300km on bigger tires
 
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