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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After my recent riding trip to the Badlands in Indiana, I've been hearing a bearing noise get louder and louder. Well, today I had a chance to dig into it and apparently my alternator didn't like the 15+ times it got submerged last weekend :lol:. So, I did what anyone who doesn't want to pay $453 for a new one would do. Tear it open!

Bearings numbers are Peer 6202-2RS-C3 (front bearing) and 6002RLD (rear bearing). Technically, the OEM rear bearing is 11mm wide and the new bearing is only 9mm. The new front bearing is exactly the same. I was told that the original rear NSK 6002DG6 is a special wider bearing and not readily available. A quick google search pulled this up http://www.stroudmotorsports.com/pages/OemParts#%2fKawasaki%2fKAF950B7F_Mule_3010_Diesel_4X4%2fGENERATOR%2fKAF950B7F%2fI12I1296E18101 which has the exact same 2 OEM bearings with matching part numbers for $20 and $25. If you have time, you might as well go that route. However, I'm leaving Thursday morning for a week of riding so I went with what I could get locally which was a whopping $11 for both bearings.

Getting it apart is extremely self explanatory if you have any mechanical knowledge. Take off the nut that holds the pulley on, 3 screws for dust cover on back, two screws for brushes, case half bolts, and then the rectifier assembly being careful when pulling the wires out of it. Use a soft face mallet and hold the case while tapping the shaft out of the front case. The rotor will stay in the rear case. Use a pointed punch to gently drive the rotor out of the rear case half.

Here's a pictoral exaplanation;

The patient (though technically an after picture)


Remove 3 screws and nut to get dust cover off rear


Now it'll look like this


Remove brushes


Remove screws that hold the winding wires on


Straighten loops of wire out


Take out screws and remove rectifier


Lift diode pack straight up


Now remove the pulley with an impact. Then remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts that hold the case halves together. Hold the alternator on the workbench and gently tap the shaft with a dead blow mallet. The rotor will stay in the rear case half as they separate.

Now looking down in the front half, remove 4 screws that hold sheetmetal cover over the bearing and gently tap it out with a brass drift.



Use a large socket to gently tap your new bearing in and replace the cover and 4 screws.


Now hold the rear case and use a pointed punch to gently tap the shaft and bearing out of the rear case half


Make sure the wavy washer stays in the bottom case half


Use a small 3 jaw puller to remove the bearing from the rear of the rotor


I used a 16mm socket to gently tap the new bearing on


Don't forget the "tophat" washer that goes on the top of the bearing


Now since I used a narrower rear bearing, I found an O-ring that 2.5mm thick to take up the space. That'll give just a little bit of "squish" to keep things tight inside (9mm vs 11mm wide bearing). Skip this if using OEM sized rear bearing.


Now put it all back together and back on the 4 wheeler!



Rode it around the yard and down the road, happy to report no more noisy bearings and everything is working perfectly. Screw paying $453 for a new one Cat happy.
 

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please do a full write up and i will make it a sticky.
 

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this will be pinned when the write up is done for sure
 

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Good wright up.thumbguy
The Denso unit is very common, so if it get beyond repair. Shop flebay. You can get them for a lot less than dealer cost.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good wright up.thumbguy
The Denso unit is very common, so if it get beyond repair. Shop flebay. You can get them for a lot less than dealer cost.:D
I figured as much, I've worked on quite a few Kubota's that had a suspiciously similar alternator. I just looked up AC dealer price for a good laugh :lol:.
 
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