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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Snow drags coming up soon. Just thinking about a few details. Wondering what the general consensis is on high engagement springs vs low engagement springs and tight belt clearances vs stock or wider? I know some like to run 0.020 belt to sheave for a "smoother" engagment, while others, Olav included, like about 0.060.

Opinions??
 

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they are talking belt widths. You can re shim the spider in your clutch to accomdate differnt belt widths. Dont bother with doing that unless you know about clutching.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (GregB @ Jan 9 2007, 12:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
they are talking belt widths. You can re shim the spider in your clutch to accomdate differnt belt widths.



Dont bother with doing that unless you know about clutching.[/b]
it goes way beyond that


or know someone that does
 

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:lol:

Yes, I know that but send it along just the same. :thumbsup:

The only changes I make in belt clearance on my standard ZR clutches are done by swapping between 010 and 020 belts, which amounts to about .030 in difference. I like the tighter clearance of the 020 and smoother engagement for trail duty. If I'm going to play on the lake I can switch to 010 belts and get more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Isn't that usually the issue. Depends a lot on conditons. Might have to make my decision day of I guess.
 

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That's what it comes down to. Who clutches best for conditions that day. If you come in there with a huge engagement and a big gap between the belt and sheave and SLAP that belt hard you will spin to China on loose snow. If you get a super hard packed track....C-YA!

I believe the grass draggers are more apt to run a big belt to sheave clearance than ice racers. If you spin on ice you are screwed as broken ice won't hook. I can see it being pretty effective on hard pack. Obviously Rusty knows much more than I do here. I've never had the pleasure of dealing with a 4' breaker bar and grunt tool :) I do know for sure the local boys around here engage less on ice than grass.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Disclaimer: I for one, never said I know more than ANYBODY on this site (or others for that matter), Chris, you know your sh!t too dude![/b]
And you've forgot more than I'll ever know...and probably will forget more than I'll ever know again. :)

I can figure stuff out sure. It just takes me twice as long as You, Bill, Dan...etc....need more $$ and parts :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
$$, parts and time....and I'm running out of all three. :lol:

I'll see where and what my engagement is like this weekend. Snow conditions should be similar to race day.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (C-note @ Jan 9 2007, 08:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (GregB @ Jan 9 2007, 12:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
they are talking belt widths. You can re shim the spider in your clutch to accomdate differnt belt widths.



Dont bother with doing that unless you know about clutching.[/b]
it goes way beyond that


or know someone that does
[/b][/quote]


O yeah.. It gose above and beyond what I know.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ZRrrr @ Jan 8 2007, 06:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Snow drags coming up soon. Just thinking about a few details. Wondering what the general consensis is on high engagement springs vs low engagement springs and tight belt clearances vs stock or wider? I know some like to run 0.020 belt to sheave for a "smoother" engagment, while others, Olav included, like about 0.060.

Opinions??[/b]
Every clutching package has to match the engine torque and HP and what type of racing it is being set up for. There is no universal right way to do it. A high RPM motor that starts making big HP over 6000-7000 RPM would probably bog bad engaging at 35-4000 RPM. So you would want the engagement to be high, 5500+ RPM. That same clutching on a big twin with a ton of low RPM torque would dig a huge trench. Depending on track conditions. Too tight of belt side gap can cause the belt to smoke, too loose and it could bog the motor if the engagement isn't high enough. I try and determine what brand of weight I will be running and shim the clutch so it has the side gap I want and the weights will still just barely move, meaning there is the tiniest bit of clearance between the roller and weight. If there isn't any gap, and you change brands or styles of weight, it's possible the side gap can change. A perfect example are Heavy Hitters. They have more material under the heel, almost like a Polaris weight. You can see this easily if you take different weights and put them on the same clutch pin and make the top profiles all equal. Turn the weight over and now look at the heel. If the heel is now taller than the rest, like the heavy hitter, the weight will be tight against the roller causing less belt gap. And just adding a primary shim won't cure the side gap issue if the moveable sheave is already hitting the first shim on the primary stack. You could add 5 shims to the primary clutch and gain zero side gap, the only thing you will get is a lower engagement. I have different clutches in my trailer shimmed for different weights if need be. Most Cat weights all have the same heel profile, but not every single one. That's enough secrets to give away and most people probably don't have a clue as to what I just explained without seeing it in person with the clutch apart. It takes me a ton of time to get everything just where I want it. Is this the right way? Who knows, I'm sure some will say no. Those are the same guys that probably can't get a grasp on what I just explained above either. :tongue_nana:
 

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Wow Bill....dream come true. Different clutches set up for different conditions. That's a dream come true.
 

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Ha ha...I don't have gimmic items...well...too many. Gotta add a little bling :)

I like how these tech threads get you pros to JUUUUST about spill the beans...but not quite:)
 
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