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Wow, I really like these. The width of the beam is unreal. They are the 6000k, Diamond White bulbs. Tim

Bridge is 75'.


With factory highbeams.
 

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Here's how I'm doing mine slightly different:

I got the Zentec Lows like you guys do. But I purchased 28 SMD LED replacements for my High bulbs. LED's don't put out as much light. But with lows this bright they don't need too. Plus the LED's draw much less current than the HID's.
The reason why is because I'm going to put 1 or 2 of these 55w HID Zenon spot lights wired parallel to my highs on a custom mount on my handle bars.
My reason for doing all this is its always nice to have a light that moves with your steering while night driving.

At this time I'm waiting for other shipments to get here and the holidays to pass before buying the spot light to finish this project.
 

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Keeping this thread alive!! Cat happy After reading this entire post, I decided to go HID. I bought these off ebay --> Autovizion HID Xenon Bulb Replacement 5000K 6000K 8000K 10000K 12000K 30K Pinkl | eBay

They were $29.96 with free shipping. I went with the 3000K color which are super bright and put out a golden hue. They shipped really quick, and worked great right out of the box. After installing them, I've decided to order a high beam set from the same seller, 12000K exotic purple just for novelty purpose, since the low beams already put out more than enough light. I'll post pics once I get the high beams installed.
 

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Let me start by saying, not it is not a Cat, however it is how i did my HID set up. if it helps someone on here it will be worth it. here is how i did mine on my quad


out at the shop we do A TON of night time riding... so naturally i wanted better lighting. so i use HID in most of the bikes i build so i figured i would add it to the quad as well... pretty simple actually.. here is a write up
Tools needed:
soldering iron
shrink wrap
solder (flux if you do not have inline flux solder)
phillips head screwdriver (#1,#2)
12mm socket
10mm socket
wire cutters
wire strippers
H6m HID kit (i used a cheap $31 shipped kit and have several times on bikes, works great)
denatured alcohol
rag
2 long zip ties
Removal
- start out by taking the 12mm and 10mm sockets and remove the mount bolts that support the lamps. Unplug the 2 sockets going to the lights.
- separate the lights from the mount and place the mount to the side
- using the #2 remove the lower phillips head screw from the bottom, this will allow you to remove the front grill from the light (at this point you can use the #1 and remove the adjuster screw from the headlight to allow you easy access to clean the lamp lens. i opted to do this as you have to re aim your lights anyway. this is not a required step)
Wiring
- cut the plug sockets off the back of the lamps leaving a good 2 or 3 inches of wire
- from here take your HID kit and cut off the stock pins and strip the wire a bit back.
- you will not be able to run high low as these are single stage HID (i was going to run low as 1 lamp and high as 2 lamps, however the residual current that flows though the high when the low is on is enough to turn on the HID ballast so the lamp will light up, i did not feel like adding a resister to it to keep this from happening so i just made them both light up)
- connect the green and yellow wire to the red line on the HID kit harness plug, and black to black. Solder these in and shrink wrap them



- once both sides have been soldered slide your full shrink wrap over the loose wires and heat that up to secure everything.
ballast install
- i found that the ballasts fit really well at the top of the steering column plastics, you do not have to mount here but it is pretty easy.
- clean off the contact area with some denatured alcohol. Apply the supplied adhesives to the back of the ballasts. I choose this spot to mount mine as there was a good amount of metal to run the zip tie around and over the ballast to support it and ensure that adhesive tape holds it in place

both ballasts mounted

re assembly
- re install the lamp into the bucket and put back in the #2 philips head screw to hold it in place, run the wire out the back of the lamp
- install the 2 - 12mm bolts that mount the lights to the light rack
- plug in the lights to the ballasts and ensure wires are properly routed and tied down
- install the 2-10mm bolts and the 12mm light mount supports (add a drop of blue loc tite to the bolts)
all done

took it outside to aim the lamps


few pics from riding at night... bear in mind it is really tough to take a picture of light output, but i can tell you it is at least 3x's as good as the stock set up. i can run wide open down the trails with clear visibility







 

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I installed hids in my 650 H1 last night but the right one flickers a lil. Had the same ones in my buddy's V2 and it didn't flicker. Any ideas as to why?
 

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I have a set of those on the way as well
 

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They work really well, what a difference! They take about 5 to 10 seconds to come up to full brightness but even with the fact I can't aim the headlights properly, I can see so much better at night.

I also purchased another kit as a spare in case a part goes bad.

Mike
 

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Though 6500k is nice, HID's do have a shelf life due to the ballast, etc. I also ran into problems running 55w lights for longer than a couple hours at a time. I ended up converting everything to LED. Cost me $170 for the lights and a little soldering. Now running six 12w LED lights. Pulls 6A @ 12v and puts out 6000 lumes @ 4k. Makes a big difference and moar power available for my winch. Now I dont return home with my lights glowing orange and flickering anymore. These LEDs will run for 48 hours off battery w/o a charge and bike still starts!
 

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Picked up a HID kit on Ebay and going to try them out. I never did like the light output of the headlights and after buying the 366 and seeing how much better that one is. Found these kits for $38 each.

Luminis G4 Xenon Conversion HID Kit H1 H3 H4 H7 H11 H10 9005 9006 9003 9007 H13 | eBay


I figured it would cost almost the same or more to add additional lights to the quad.

Mike
Newbie here trying to understand the difference between these mikeexplorer is talking about and the ones listed in the Artic Cat accessory guide for $299.00. Why the big price difference?
 

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Look on eBay they are cheap.
 

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Though 6500k is nice, HID's do have a shelf life due to the ballast, etc. I also ran into problems running 55w lights for longer than a couple hours at a time. I ended up converting everything to LED. Cost me $170 for the lights and a little soldering. Now running six 12w LED lights. Pulls 6A @ 12v and puts out 6000 lumes @ 4k. Makes a big difference and moar power available for my winch. Now I dont return home with my lights glowing orange and flickering anymore. These LEDs will run for 48 hours off battery w/o a charge and bike still starts!
Problem is likely cheap hids...my kits have lasted long and been wet more then most..its all in what you buy
 

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Just wanted to say thank you to all for the great information. It made doing this project easy and inexpensive. I ride a lot in the dark and my stock lights are dim, made worse by the partial block from the front brush guard.
 

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I got em in my dims and brights. HID 35w. They are amazing!!! no going back after that. I think I paid $30 a pair on ebay. They light up about 180 degrees and up in the trees. unbelievable man......
 

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hey? you know those little mesh holes on the front of the newer ac quads? what they for? anyone got a link for some foglights or something thatll fit in the 2'' diameter holes? they gotta have a purpose right?
 

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NH, not to rain on your parade but I've had 3 different sets from the same guy and they've been junk. I hope you have better luck than I've had.
 

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Thank you for the info Timmer. I hope I get lucky. Too late to cancel. Was it a problem after they were installed or does it arrive in pieces?
 

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NH, it was after they were installed. I had one of the boxes burn out and 2 bulbs. He was real good about replacing them. I just noticed yesterday that I have another bulb burnt out. :angry:
 
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