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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some pics of the HID powered up off of a jump pack and the F7 at idle with factory bulbs. Its hard to see the real difference on a camera but much more white and a TON brighter. Now I just have to figure out how I'm gonna wire this kit in, my thoughts are to find a small 12v battery from a electric scooter or motorcycle, since I dont need to crank the sled it dosent have to be very strong, I would just feel alot better if I can wire in a reserve power for the HID when it first ignites. My only consern is wether the factory stator will support a small battery, If anyone can help me with this that would be great. :thumbsup:
 

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It must be able to support a battery seeing how there is an electric start kit available for the f-series. gotta charge the battery somehow.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Fircat_Freak @ Jan 9 2007, 12:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
It must be able to support a battery seeing how there is an electric start kit available for the f-series. gotta charge the battery somehow.........[/b]
I understand, I just am not a 100% sure if the stator is the same PN# for electric start???
 

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NOW THAT is sooooo F'n KIC A$$. I am jealous. What kind of $$$ are we talkin' to do this? Man I hope you will be able to do this, with the stator issue and all. Looks FANTASTIC!!! All I can afford are the Silverstars once I figure how to make the straight plug fit the two outside lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slncapri @ Jan 9 2007, 01:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
NOW THAT is sooooo F'n KIC A$$. I am jealous. What kind of $$$ are we talkin' to do this? Man I hope you will be able to do this, with the stator issue and all. Looks FANTASTIC!!! All I can afford are the Silverstars once I figure how to make the straight plug fit the two outside lights.[/b]
Well....the kits that I have are around 300-325 but if it was a arcticchat member buying them I would do it for 265 a kit, now this is just the HID and not the battery and all the other stuff that I will have to do to make it SAFE for battery less machines. If I can get some #'s on the stator and find out if adding a battery and this system has any negitive affects on the stator I could produce a plug and play kit. Now I am not trying to profit off of this I just like doing it for fun, so I dont want to infringe on the sponsors. I will try to get this thing put together after my trip this weekend and will post a do-it yourself pics and description of the install. :beer_cheers:
 

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I know F7 electrical system is AC, but there is a voltage rectfier on it correct? so then it charges the battery in DC. So that means you
can have hid kit which is about 230-250 at most sites that i know where to get them. and they are pre ready connectors for
automobile stock existing head light plug, which in exchange you can cut that end off and get a old bulb and break it up and then
solder wires on it, and then fill it up with liquid electrical tape. and use a auto bosch relay, and connect that wire from the headlight to
that, and also the ground from the headlight to that too. and the 12v wire fromt the battery to the relay too. then output to the ballast.
then it can be easily plugged in without having to mess with the stock existing head light connector. That will be for the turn
on switch to the ballast. Then from the ballast there will be a i think 10 gauge wire which is usually white, and get a exension 10
gauge wire and solder it to that and have a inline fuse block in between that and connect it to the postive of the battery. plus the
negative wire is also 10 gauge, and connect that directly to the battery negative post. Which the 12v will power up the ballast once
the relay is switched on.

that way will work since the battery is DC and most HID draws 35 watts, im not sure how much amp it draws though.

there is another way around, is that you can install a switch and wire it up to the relay and leave the headlight plug alone dont use it,
and then flip it off when you start up and warm up, then switch it on when its warmed up or after its started.


if you guys want electrical schematic that i can make and show how its all hooked up, as long as i know what amperage the sled
draws to prevent any problems. plus then i can do a better organized write up.
 

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Snopropickle do you sell HID kits, I just ordered a PILOT Bi-xenon kit for my dodge ram should be here soon might need to ask you a few questions on installation if thats alright, i heard its a p.i.t.a
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sarosh @ Jan 9 2007, 06:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I know F7 electrical system is AC, but there is a voltage rectfier on it correct? so then it charges the battery in DC. So that means you
can have hid kit which is about 230-250 at most sites that i know where to get them. and they are pre ready connectors for
automobile stock existing head light plug, which in exchange you can cut that end off and get a old bulb and break it up and then
solder wires on it, and then fill it up with liquid electrical tape. and use a auto bosch relay, and connect that wire from the headlight to
that, and also the ground from the headlight to that too. and the 12v wire fromt the battery to the relay too. then output to the ballast.
then it can be easily plugged in without having to mess with the stock existing head light connector. That will be for the turn
on switch to the ballast. Then from the ballast there will be a i think 10 gauge wire which is usually white, and get a exension 10
gauge wire and solder it to that and have a inline fuse block in between that and connect it to the postive of the battery. plus the
negative wire is also 10 gauge, and connect that directly to the battery negative post. Which the 12v will power up the ballast once
the relay is switched on.

that way will work since the battery is DC and most HID draws 35 watts, im not sure how much amp it draws though.

there is another way around, is that you can install a switch and wire it up to the relay and leave the headlight plug alone dont use it,
and then flip it off when you start up and warm up, then switch it on when its warmed up or after its started.


if you guys want electrical schematic that i can make and show how its all hooked up, as long as i know what amperage the sled
draws to prevent any problems. plus then i can do a better organized write up.[/b]
Just to let you know I have done a ton of reserch on this and yes the way you are doing it is right but before I post a way to do it I want to try it out on the trail, also there are ALOT of CHEAP kits out there but its like the old saying you get what you pay for, and being in a enviroment that vibration and less then normal power supply is in the factor I want to post a 100% safe way to do this. I could not sleep at night knowing a bunch of people did this cuz I "said" it would work no problem. Not to start a pissing match but I could have posted that months ago but will no trail time and no 100% safe way yet I will keep my method to my self.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (McCready6569 @ Jan 9 2007, 07:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Snopropickle do you sell HID kits, I just ordered a PILOT Bi-xenon kit for my dodge ram should be here soon might need to ask you a few questions on installation if thats alright, i heard its a p.i.t.a[/b]
NO problem, its pretty easy if its a plug and play, but shoot me a PM, I have done plenty of these kits in my day.
 

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I'm not sure, but I think the electrical system needs the load of the headlights to operate properly. If the stock headlight wiring is only operating a relay that may be a problem. A rectifier on the lighting circuit may keep a load on the system, and still provide DC. EFI sleds have DC at the fuel pump and servo, but current is generated by a seperate coil in the stator. Could be wrong. Just thinking out loud.
 

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Well, since you can just buy a electic start kit from cat for any sled mentioned it will work. That includes all firecats. It would be the same if you were to buy a firecat with electric start already on it. So the stator would definatly work fine.
 

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Maybe I can lend a bit of insite. I added an electric start kit to my '98ZR600, they're basically all the same. The wiring harness includes a plug that connects into the auxillary plug of the lighting coil circuit, it has a diode in it to clip the AC and trickle charge the battery, since the battery is only used to start the engine a trickle charge is fine. I have this engine installed in a 1990 Honda Pilot and I'm using the battery to run a DC fan on my rad. I went this way as the lighting output is in AC, so I run my lights in AC, and the fan and the starter run in DC, so far the charging seems to be able to keep up to the draw of the starter and the constant draw of the fan (on with key). It's a fan from a civic, I don't konw what it dras for amperage......

There must be a rectifier that you could use to convert the AC light output to a higher DC output than the charging diode in the starter kit. I tried to use the pilot's recitifier, but the piot uses a 3 phase recifier setup and the lighting coil setup is ony single phase, I could not get enough DC output to run the fan and lights.

If anyone knows of or finds a recitifer that will convert the AC lighting circuit to DC I'd appreciate the info ;)
 

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Awesome Post.... I'll be interested in seeing the finished product as well. Drop me a PM when its completed and a few pics.

Thanks. :thumbsup:
 
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