Arctic Cat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:sos: what are some tips on removing a stuck secondary? it is soaking with PB blaster right now. I tried prying but I don't want to break it. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. surrend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,261 Posts
take the whole jackshaft out and press the clutch off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
On mine, I took off the roller cover and got 3 nuts about 3/4" long from the hardware store to fit the studs. Then I used a steering wheel puller and 3 short bolts to pull it right off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
If the sled runs, unbolt the secondary, and lift the rear off the sled off the ground. Start reving it to get the track to spin and nail the brakes. Do this till you see it break loose and shut off the sled. I took my shaft off, used a torch, 20 ton press, soaked it for days. In the end, it snaped and I cut it off the shaft. But my sled was not running to try out this method. Its worked for others, give it a shot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,602 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (snofrog @ Dec 28 2009, 07:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
set the brake and rock the clutch left and right[/b]

x2 and then when you do get it off clean the shaft good with scotch bright and put a very thin film of grease or never seize and that will help for the next time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,429 Posts
I am betting the square key stock is rusted in place also. How can you rock it back and forth with that still on the shaft? Or take out the bolt, rev up the engine and nail the brakes to get it loose? Just asking?

I would take the entire shaft out with the clutch attached and press it off. I have used a 2x4 and sledge and drove one off a parts sled in the past. Didnt hurt the clutch, but I was lucky. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,055 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Danzig @ Dec 28 2009, 09:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I am betting the square key stock is rusted in place also. How can you rock it back and forth with that still on the shaft?[/b]

even with that key in there most sleds of this vintage have more than a bit of slop in the secondary . the key , shaft and clutch all wear and leave some slop for rotation
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
97 Posts
I ran into this on my '98 ZR 600 EFI LE this last November , let me set the scene for you . It's wonderful late fall , you know snow will be here soon , sled's outta the shed running ok but nothing you can't cure. You've been talking on Articchat to everyone you can to get as much info to only have to do something right once. You finally get the spousal unit to let you order the parts , you with me on this guy's !!? You get everything possible in line to replace everything you want to in one weekend to get er' done right. Then BAM!!! outta nowhere everything you planned so well doesn't sem to be going that way everything you touch either is frozen or breaks .
Well Gentlemen let me tell you, I did just that this year and the secondary clutch on my sled was frozen TIGHT!!! I mean tight! Now being in the mechanic bussiness (sorta) I figured I've learned enough from the past that haste = breaks so I squrited the [email protected]!#$t outta of it with good ol PB blaster and forgot about for 5 days. I did everything else to it in the mean time and then just for sheets and grins I put it up on stands and threw the belt back on it and fired her up, BTW I did try several options before like pullers( gently) and such the good ol rubber mallet trick ( nope) . I spun the track and let it run for several minutes then shut it off and figured the clutches were last on the list so might as well get at it.
You know what ,, I pulled the belt off then the retaining bolts and the secondary clutch came ( SLID THE [email protected]@!#K OFF) off by hand with no effort. If I never seen or heard it myself I wouldn't believe it.

I say spray the crap out of it and let it sit, then as stated above jack it up ( Safely) and fire it up. the track will prob wanna spin on its own with out much throttle ( this is normal don't worry there is no load on it from ground friction) just rev it up LIGHTLY ! prob no more then 3500-4000 and keep varying the throttle and hitting the brake. This should do the trick. I've always used this approoach to the secondaries and has only not worked once. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the tips! It is still soaking with PB blaster. I will try running it on a stand tomorrow. Ill let you know if it works.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
If all else fails and you can't get it off, try this. Open the clutch all the way and put somthing in between the sheaves to hold them open. Now take a propane or mapp gas , hand torch and heat the bottom hud area. Try to keep the heat away from the sheaves. When you get it pretty hot you take a large candle and rub it where the bolt goes in. What you want is the wax to melt and the heat will pull it into the area between the shaft and the clutch. I have done this many many times and it has not failed me yet. This works great on broken bolts also. Its better to try before the bolt breaks. This works on the same principle as sweat soddering copper, the heat will suck the wax into the stuck area. Ron.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
:super_happy: Thanks a million for the tip on running it in a stand and hitting the brakes. I tried to pry it off after letting it soak for a day but it was still tight. I removed the bolt and drove it to the garage lifted the rear and ran it. It took a few tries before it came louse. When I was done the brakes were smoking! Now its off and the tuning can begin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
I know this is an older thread, but posting in case anyone else finds it like I did looking for info.

My secondary was stuck. VERY stuck. My motor was apart and out, (Needed APV shims, motor mount, and a clutch) so I elected to buy the puller.

$50 on amazon and had it in 3 days.

Spread the belly pan, removed the roller plate/spring, installed the puller, and easy as turning the wrench, came off nice and easy. Cleaned it up and coated the shaft/key with anti-seize so hopefully won't need to repeat the process next time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
514 Posts
The puller has never worked well for me. Not considering the time I can pull the entire shaft and toss the whole thing in the press.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
The puller has never worked well for me. Not considering the time I can pull the entire shaft and toss the whole thing in the press.
Well if you don't have the $50 I suppose that works, lol, but now that I have the tool I think it's easier to spread the belly, 2 screws and done.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,261 Posts
On mine, I took off the roller cover and got 3 nuts about 3/4" long from the hardware store to fit the studs. Then I used a steering wheel puller and 3 short bolts to pull it right off.
this or buy a secondary puller. i do lots of sled work so the puller made sense and does quick clean work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Back when I picked up my sled mine was frozen on too. But instead of a puller or a press I just beat it off with a nice sized hammer. It was just a button secondary though, I picked up a roller for $100. If it had been a roller stuck on I probably would have taken more care, lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
514 Posts
Well if you don't have the $50 I suppose that works, lol, but now that I have the tool I think it's easier to spread the belly, 2 screws and done.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I more so meant every time I used to encounter a stuck clutch, the puller would bend so much I thought it would bust. From that point I just started using a press and never went back.
 
1 - 20 of 58 Posts
Top