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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, first real post, new to site, Canadian, eh.
2009 thundercat 1000 H2, I bought with 300km (+/-190miles) on it, and I'm at about 2200 now; happy with the power so not looking into any of these "wet clutch delete" kits or anything like that.
...potentially big problems with my cat, searched the threads and couldn't find much, so hoping for some feedback... I'm handy but not a mechanic. got hung up on an ice shelf, and without hitting the throttle too hard, something went wrong and oil blew out from wet clutch into CVT case. quite the mess. Terrible noises coming from the machine, I'm hoping its just the belt slipping, but may be worse, so I'm going to do a 2-phase diagnosis and repair, starting with fixing the leaks. So the manual actually doesn't give very good info here. If this doesn't fix it, I'm afraid there is a problem inside my drive train, in which case, will lead to more posts....

So that leads me to several questions...
-->The biggest question, The housing #0823-556 replaces an old part number - could this mean mine is defective and should be replaced with the updated part? anybody know if this part is junk? Its nearly $300 so I don't want to replace unless its the cause. (The bearing seems ok, another $100 if I replace the housing also will replace bearing).
-->seal 0830-244 -does that just pop out or must I remove housing and replace from inside the case?
(seal 0830-189 on the back side will be replaced)
--->should I replace the fixed drive spacer part #0823-015 (it "looks" ok but...) O-ring # 0470-531 for sure
-->My (new) belt is covered in oil, should I replace it or can I clean it and what should I use; I'm worried that brake cleaner will ruin it. also I'm not sure if the arrows will still be visible, is there any way to tell which way the belt goes?
lastly, being canadian, parts are double what they are in usa; shipping companies charge the price difference to cross the border so ordering from us is usually not an option - any tips on good suppliers would be appreciated (keeping in mind they don't like non-site sponsors listed in here; you could pm me with info, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
forgot to add,...

also, couple more questions....can you buy the seals for this mess as a set or should I just go individually?
While I've got it torn apart, the one-way clutch / bearing looks fine, but I've read posts where people remove this, is this something recommended or should I leave it in there.
I do like maximum engine braking since the amateur brake design will put you over the handlebars if you hit the brakes coming down a hill, I don't want to lose any of that.
 

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Updated part numbers usually just mean a new supplier. You can contact a dealer and they can usually tell you. Talk to service not parts
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks, I will look into it, asking questions to the people at the local parts counter is often not very helpful, I'll see if the service people can help. in the meantime I went ahead and ordered the seals and the spacer (just in case) so I can put it back together and look into the bigger issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
clutch housing dismantle process

so I ordered all the seals. haven't arrived yet but I tore it apart tonight.
since I haven't found it written down anywhere, and the manual kind of skips over this part...
-after fighting with seal #830-244 for a while, it does not pop out, you have to knock the shaft out of the housing and send it back through the back. manual say use a hydraulic press, I used the ******* press.:Bangin:
(pic 1, seal goes down through, not up)
(pic 2, ******* press)
(pic 3, 3b; housing removed) - after removing the housing you will see two metal tabs and they will be removed with a torx
(pic 4, 4b; re-deploy ******* press):Bangin:- since I'm replacing the fixed drive spacer just in case its part of the problem, I used the old one to get down in there to knock the bearing out. a couple of "firm but gentle" whacks takes it out, much easier than say a wheel bearing (next project).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
now observe some things

pic 5 - inappropriate tool use to knock seal down through. after frigging with the seal for too long, just want to get it over with so used a screwdriver to pop it out because I couldn't find a more suitable tool.
pic 6 note theres a port and tunnel to supply oil in behind the bearing, in my case, this is the route the oil would have taken on its way out to make a mess of the cvt. Nothing special to note except make sure theres no clogs in them. they are much bigger than say a carberateur port so not sot a big thing.
pic 7 more oil ports. Theres a couple more here and there on the assembly, one by my thumb and one at the end of the nosepicker.
pic3b in wrong order, but I thought I'd throw it in, the clips to remove before you remove the bearing.
pic 8 showing the O-ring #0470-531 in the fixed drive spacer, I'm guessing this was probably where most of the leakage was occurring.

I'll post the re-assembly order when the parts come in to complete the story and hopefully will be back on the trail.:Cansled:
 

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2016 Arctic Cat Alterra 550 XT
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09 Thundercat 1000 h2 clutch issues

You need heat. Use a propane torch and heat the bearing till the oil smokes and it'll just pop out when you tap it. Same when you put the shaft back in heat up the bearing and keep the shaft cool.


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Thanks for the how to with pics!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bearing #0832-009

fyi today I took the bearing into a local bearing supplier, they matched it with the same identity, same brand even, for $25.00 compared to motorcycle dealer or online at $90.00 and up.:wow2: Aaaannnd... Over the counter instead of ordering and waiting 3 (dealer) - 10 (online) days. They looked at the bearing, confirmed it was worn and loose, and i was able to compare it to the old bearing and verify that it should be replaced. Seals I ordered online so hopefully they will arrive this week.
((Canadian customers would see a bigger price difference than Americans; I see this stuff much cheaper in the states but we pay more for shipping and get gouged by the shipping companies to bring it across the border + our dollar much is lower, making it often just as expensive. not to pick on the dealers, people don't understand they are there to make money; I prefer to pay more at the dealer and support local business than to ship fedex or ups and pay a bunch of tie-guys. ))
HEAT helps yes arcticFrost but it popped out very easily, didn't need heat, but I will use heat to re-install.
:hot:--- step 1
bearing in Freezer and heat the case up to expand it to make bearing install into the case easier.
part two,
Put the shaft in the freezer to shrink and heat the bearing inner race; but I don't like to use too much heat here as I'm afraid to damage the rubber seal on the bearing. I also put a slight oil slick on the surfaces to be mated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
re-installation of parts, order of operations...

seals first....
the seal shown on the far left looked good but replaced it anyway because I'm not interested in taking this apart again. Make sure the orientation of the seal is correct; there is a lip part that protrudes from the seal , it should be facing out. (It was a pita to remove.) When the new seal is firmly in place you should be able to note that its slightly recessed into the housing - I used a big socket and a hammer to tap it in, then went around the seal doing "spot pokes" to make sure its all the way in.

my seals came with a light grease coating so no need to lube them.
Now I put the big bearing in the freezer, and the clutch cover on the heater to shrink and expand the parts for ease of installation. not sure how much effect this has, but everyone swears by it, and at least you can say you did what you could to make it go smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the big bearing

I popped the extra seal off the bearing, thinking it will allow the oil to bathe it... but found it was packed with this heavy blue grease, which I don't really want in the engine so I'm going to wipe some of this out of the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
conclusion of clutch case repair

so I finished off the project last weekend and moving on to diff seals and bearings, u-joints, axle boots, but thought I'd post a few comments in case.
- first install the outer seal, part number 0830-244.
-next comes the big bearing, #0832-009 - this is the part that I bought for <$30 at a bearing shop but was $90++ from motorbike suppliers (note this for all seals and bearings and U-joints, they are mostly picked from a catalog by the manufacturers and so readily available at much lower prices from non-motorbike suppliers)
- one thing I found that was when putting the bearing in, I knocked the outer seal out and had to remove the bearing and reinstall. To keep the seal in place while installing the bearing, I put the fixed drive face spacer # 0823-015 back in to hold it in place.
-loctite the cap screws that secure the tabs hold the big bearing in place.
-now install the shaft / housing into the bearing - heres the trick / problem - I couldn't tell if it was seated properly because the view of the connection is hidden inside the case, so in retrospect, should have measured / noted how far everything protruded before disassembly.
the key measurements would be the clutch housing from the case, and the fixed drive spacer. I really didn't do this but show in these first 3 pics what I shoulda / coulda / woulda done...
... and the last two pics, wheel bearings, U-joints, and front diff bearings and seals project for this weekend, for all of which I've found some great posts on this this site so will not chronical, but thanks to those who have, and hope that this post can be considered as payback for everyone who contributes all this great info.
 

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Awesome job thank you !
 

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Hi dangerous_dan,
Have you had any issues with the seal leaking into the belt housing again since your repair?
 
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