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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edited: Sept 15 2013 because tapatalk deleted all my pictures.

Just in case anyone needed detailed pics all the way down to the timing chain here ya go!


If you're going all the way into the wet clutch you'll need to either drain the engine oil or elevate the quad on the right side. Please block the quad up and set the parking brake so it does not fall on you.





Next remove the clutch side floorboard and floorboard support. You'll need a t30 torx bit, 10 mm wrench and a 13mm wrench. You will also need to disconnect the belt drive intake and exhaust snorkels.




Next remove 16 t30 torx screws holding the clutch cover in place. Two on the left hand side near the rear fender are longer note their location once all the screws are removed you may need to lightly tap the case with a rubber mallet to dislodge it from the dowel pins.




Once the cover is removed you should be looking at the primary and secondary clutches. These two nuts have red loctite on them and you should always use red loctite when putting them back on. Use an impact wrench with a 1 1/4" socket or 32 mm to remove them.




Next pull the movable sheave (on the right) straight off the fixed plate and rollers come with it. Put it somewhere it won't get oil or grease on it




Next remove the steel spacer from the primary shaft then the secondary clutch assembly and belt will pull straight off. Then
remove the non movable sheave (back side of the primary clutch) and this is what you should be seeing.




Remove the three small torx drive screws holding the cooling duct in place then remove the duct




Remove three t30 torx screws securing the shroud at the primary shaft




Once the shroud is out of the way remove all visible t30 torx screws inside the housing. There are five screws securing the housing on the outside of this area. Two long screws at the belt drive intake inlet and three along the bottom. Do not forget to remove these! There should be 16 in total



Gently tap on the housing and pull the housing to dislodge it from the dowel pins. The primary shaft will come out with the housing. This is where you'll lose oil if you failed to drain it or elevate the side of the quad




Once removed you're looking at the wet clutch basket and one way bearing. Be sure to note how the one way bearing is installed. It has a green dot on it and the word outside written on it. It should be re installed the same way. If you wish to delete your engine brake simply leave this bearing out when you re assemble.


The wet clutch is held in place with a 22 mm nut it has reverse threads so you have to turn it to the right to remove it! This nut also has red loctite on it and you'll need to red loctite it upon re assembly.



Once the nut is removed you can pull the wet clutch basket right off. Pictured here is a good wet clutch (bottom) and one that is really worn (top). This is what happens when you don't put wet clutch safe oil in your quad or if you swamp it and get a crankcase full of mud.



Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Hope this helps someone!




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Excellent write up with pics! Should be pinned! Thanks!
 

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Awesome job thanks man
 

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Howd you tell your wet clutch was gone?....im thinking mines wore out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Felt like something was slipping at low rpms then once it got some revs on it it would grab all at once. Made for some interesting take offs! I blamed the belt first but after swapping belts it didn't change you could probably verify it's the wet clutch by taking the clutch cover off cranking the engine shifting into gear then slowly giving it some throttle if the engine revs and the clutches don't turn then it's probably your wet clutch


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Pondtunes: I was wandering if you had any pics of the back side of the secondary clutch. I also have a 2005 650 h1 LE bought it new and until recently have only rode mild trails. In the past few months I have added 30" XXL mudlites on 14" SS108's. It is snorkeled radiator is racked. The clutch kit and belt are on the way. I want to know wat held the spring in place on the secondary. I have seen some with nuts and some with snap rings. Just looking for a little info before I tear into it. Wandering wat kind of tools i needed to compress the spring. the primary rollers swap seems easy enough. I know I'm responding to an old post but any info will be greatly appreciated. Great in depth explanation of clutch side tear down very helpful
 

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Wow, I just saw this thread. Nice write up Pondtunes, and thank you.

Question; where are the seals (I guess there are 3?) located for those that have leaking clutches (getting oil on belt) and want to replace their own seals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As for your seals there is one behind the primary clutch and one behind the secondary, the one behind the secondary I've never messed with as it does not come off during this takedown.

That being said you should be able to tell which seal is leaking unless it's just hemorrhaging oil into the belt housing.

The one behind the primary comes out after you disassemble the clutch housing and have it down to the wet clutch.

There's a metal spacer that fits inside the seal from the outside that you can pull out once the housing is off. The bearing is held in from the back side and retained by a torx screw.

As for secondary mods look at this write up if you haven't found it already!

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202292

I personally haven't messed with the secondary a whole lot





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Is a great right up .. Was wondering if the gasket between the housing an block are reusable ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It *should* be if you don't tear it. I've had mine down a couple times and re-used it. If you've not had it apart before it might be a smart idea to order one just in case!


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yours is a little different from mine but on my 650 that washer goes over the top of the splines. it is larger than the outside diameter of the splines then the nut just tightens down top of it. I am 99% sure I have a small shim underneath my fixed plate but i believe that's the something that was added don't believe that is on the factory parts fishe.


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I also have the puck goes over the splines. and it is greater than the outer diameter of the slots and a nut tightens over it. and what will happen if this does not put the puck? thank you
 

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Thanks for the great write up pondtunes, this is very helpful. And thanks to doorfx for pointing me towards this thread. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good place to purchase a new wet clutch either online or in the Calgary area? The one from the Arctic Cat dealer is about $360.00.
 

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Thanks for the great write up pondtunes, this is very helpful. And thanks to doorfx for pointing me towards this thread. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good place to purchase a new wet clutch either online or in the Calgary area? The one from the Arctic Cat dealer is about $360.00.
OEM is your only choice for the wet clutch, you can buy replacement shoes from Adam Harvey if you want to rebuild your old.
 
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