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^^^ thank you wyo, someone who sees where im coming from...maybe im not so unhelpful and rude now..but probably not ;)
 

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Lol but your still a savage!!!!


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^^^ thank you wyo, someone who sees where im coming from...maybe im not so unhelpful and rude now..but probably not ;)
Savageman; Most of us all ready know that you have the ability of telling someone to go to hell in such an manner that they look forward to the trip. <grin> In reality I have to agree with you though. Sitting critical clearances by feel is foolish If that makes me rude also? So be it.
 

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I only think Savage was rude in maybe one post where he said that the finger test do mean crap because if you crank it over and you don't feel any or little pressure you know somethings wrong but its not precise.
 

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I only think Savage was rude in maybe one post where he said that the finger test do mean crap because if you crank it over and you don't feel any or little pressure you know somethings wrong but its not precise.
Granted he may of been able to phrase that a lot better, or explain why better. <grin>. However in reality you could pull the rings out, throw them away and still have enough volume of air blowing and pressure to blow your finger out of the spark plug hole when turning it over with the starter. About the only time or conditions that wouldn't blow your finger away is when there was a big hole burned through the top of the piston from being lean, or a rod broke, or crank broke. In those cases a finger test would probably work for you. As little as 40-45 lbs of compression, maybe less, will blow your finger out of a spark plug hole when you press against it and may feel like good compression. Chances are you had a lot more pressure than that and still didn't have enough to start until after you tweaked the valve clearances a little. It would be like trying to stick your finger into an end of a garden hose while the valve is wide open to stop the water flow. It would take a strong grip and a lot of finger pressure. Even then most municipal water supply systems are around 50-60 psi maximum. It may take nearly a 100 lbs maybe as much as 150lbs on some engines give or take to have good compression and enough to start well. Yup, When it comes to testing engine compression in reality a finger test really don't mean crap to put it bluntly.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful or rude towards you either. I'm glad you got it running. I'd still recommend you get a set of feeler gauges and make sure your valve clearance are within specs. Properly adjusted valves will make a slight tick that you can plainly hear at idle when warm. If they are quiet, that's dangerous and probably too tight. Too loose and you'll not get full power. Getting the exhaust valve set right is more critical then the intake since the exhaust valve is subject to such high temperatures. If an exhaust vale is too tight it will not transfer heat to the cylinder head when it closes which results in burning a valve and or the valve seat. A costly repair job that is easy to prevent with proper adjustment.

On both my 650 and my Tcat or all US made H1 engines. 1 full turn of the valve adjustment screw equals 16 thousands of an inch clearance. If it is the same on yours, where the intake clearance is 1 to 3 thousands, proper clearance is between 1/16 and 3/16 turns from light contact of the valve stem while on exact TDC. This would be true ONLY if the thread pitch of the adjustment screw is the same or equal on your 250 as it is on mine. If yours is the same, then every 1/16 of a turn or 22.5 degrees of rotation would equal 0.001 inch. I have never been inside the Korean made Klymco engine to know if yours is the same tread pitch as the US made H1 engines are so I cannot guarantee that 1/16 per thousands is correct. Maybe? Sorry. Maybe someone knows if the thread pitch is the same? If so then yes you could tweak it by observation and get it close enough. If the service manual recommends using this tool (see link then yes they are the same) I would not recommend getting one of those special tools because they are quite expensive, but necessary on the H2 engine because there isn't enough room between the engine and the frame to get your hand in there with a feeler gauge and see what you are doing. My opinion anyhow. So I got the tool.

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/utility-performance-technical-info/259883-valve-adjustment-question.html#post2035690

Procedure for an H1
http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/utility-performance-technical-info/248484-valve-adjustment.html#post1941642

Sure hate to see you coming back and asking for more help on how to disassemble the top end of your engine to perform a complete valve job a couple months or a few hundred miles into the future. Could easily happen.

Time to let this die out before we get into trouble <grin> Wouldn't want the moderators thinking were causing trouble and fighting and ban us would we. <grin>
 

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For a quick fix feel works ok, for a real fix get some feeler gauges and do it the right way. also if you are only using the gauges for valves i like to cut away the side of the feeler gauge so that i can fit everything in then just make sure it only has slight pressure to move it around.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
^^^ thank you wyo, someone who sees where im coming from...maybe im not so unhelpful and rude now..but probably not ;)
Well, you did post a message that was removed in which you told me I shouldnt own a quad and should sell it since I'm too poor to buy tools. So I wouldnt say you are not rude. That was quite disrespectful.

Sure its better to measure.. but a two valve small engine isnt rocket science. My quad runs perfect now.. thats all I wanted. I just was not happy with the way you relayed information. You came across rude, so I told you so.
 

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Guess i feel my motors worth more then the 6 dollars a proper fix would cost.

Yah i am rude, and the post was removed because it was not acceptable but i stand by my opinion that it should be fixed correctly. You say it only has 2 valves it doesnt matter and its not rocket since but you need to consider its not horse shoes these motors are built to spec not throw together hoping it works...and like wyo said a human hair can be the difference between good and bad im sorry to say but thats pretty close to rocket science if your gonna go by feel...unless you have super human sense and you can tell if your within the hair width then giver.

And honestly the reason im still pressing the issue is i dont want others finding this thread and getting ideas to just guess when fixing valves and engine parts....This site is here for help and getting things fixed correctly and safely.

The engine is the most percise object on these atvs and should be handled that way weither it has 2 valves or 32 valves its something that should be set with gauges
 

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Agreed 


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Discussion Starter #30
Well thats your opinion. I personally dont have a problem with adjusting the intake valve this way. If you know its too tight then ever so slightly backing off the screw until the quad starts isnt going to hurt anything. Its just a cheap way to fix the issue. I would recommend properly checking to ensure the cycle is at TDC rather than just by looking at the piston. Its not very difficult to line up the markings.

I'm sure some knuckle head could really screw up their motor if they started adjusting the valve all willy nilly. But if you do it in very small incriments until the motor starts I dont see how its going to damage your engine. The quad isnt worth very much money and to me it doesnt make sense to pay a dealer 1/4 the value of the quad to slightly loosen a valve when I can do it myself. If I owned some super expensive quad I wouldnt have messed with it myself but thats a nice thing about owning a older cheap quad.

I wasnt really talking about feeler gauges. I was talking about the compression tester. I realize a finger test isnt exact but I didnt want to spend money on a tool that I may only use once in my lifetime. My feeler guages dont go down small enough and I live in a rural area so I'd have had to wait for some to come in the mail.

Chris really helped me out here big time and explained the most simple way to get the quad running again. It actually runs better now than it did before. It starts instantly and I'm not getting a back fire when I let off the throttle. The valve was probably too tight for a very long time.. I'm sure its better off the way it is now!
 

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you have an old machine, and want to do your own work.
A compression tester, and set of feeler gauges are mandatory equipment to own. Both together cost less than the gaskets required to pull the head and figure out what damage was done because the valves are set wrong.
 

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You must be bored lol. 2011 post.
 
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