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Discussion Starter #1
OK, can anyone clear this up for me
2015 XF 7000, dealer added a heated shield cord(RCA plug ) for me, a few hours into riding with shield plugged in, Dash goes out, taillight goes out and shield stops getting power?
Gather I blew a fuse, not able to get to fuse box SUCKS< without major disassembly of things,
so used a Battery tender connection to keep shield running and stayed in middle of group so not to get rear ended by NOT being seen with no brake light.running light

I stopped at a local cat dealer, and they sold me a fuse, told me its a PLAIN Jane Auto type fuse, of 20 amp's in size
get home and learn its a 7.5 amp fuse and that you need a special Arctic Cat sized fuse, and not the basis car fuses?

SO< I get home and match up the fuse the dealer sold me to a auto fuse, and as far as I can tell they are the same darn size, so, can anyone clear things up here
is the dash/brake light fuse a 7.5 amp or a 20 amp as dealer told me? and can I just use a car/truck fuse
and would there be any harm in adding a 10 amp in a 7.5 fuse location, as I don't have any 7.5 amp fuses IF I can use a car/truck fuse

here is a picture of a side by side, of fuse dealer sold me and then car/truck one I have, the BLUE mark on the one is the dealers fuse(on left in pic)
SO< anyone know about these SPECIAL CAT fuses or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it was NOT from the sled, when I stopped a local dealer he told me that was the size I needed for the dash lights/brake lights
but turned out he was wrong? its a 20 amp fuse,and there basic fuses as you know too?
just poor info from a dealer ??
 

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Guess they would rather not be a dealer. :huh:
First the stupid guess at the fuse size. Then the "special fuse" with the blue sharpy pen! LOL!:lol:
Glad you're up and running.
Thinking about seeing my dealer, for some Prozac, to help battle my no snow depression.:donotwant:
 

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Aftermarket part available from Barn of Parts to move fuse panel to where you do have access by just removing side panel. Not perfect, but better than trying to stick your hand under the hood and do by feel or by removing the hood (6 screws I believe). Done it both ways more times than I would like to admit (my sled and a buddies). Also.... What type of cord you using for your shield? If one long male/male, that may be why you blew the fuse. If while the engine is still running, you pull the connection out of your helmet and you drop it and it hits something metal, you will most likely blow the fuse. What you need is a 2 part cord. One long male/female that stays attached to your sled and a short male/male that stays attached to the helmet. With this set up, much more difficult to make that ground and blow the fuse.
 

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x2 on this!

Sounds like the male end of the cord contacts metal and blows the fuse.


Aftermarket part available from Barn of Parts to move fuse panel to where you do have access by just removing side panel. Not perfect, but better than trying to stick your hand under the hood and do by feel or by removing the hood (6 screws I believe). Done it both ways more times than I would like to admit (my sled and a buddies). Also.... What type of cord you using for your shield? If one long male/male, that may be why you blew the fuse. If while the engine is still running, you pull the connection out of your helmet and you drop it and it hits something metal, you will most likely blow the fuse. What you need is a 2 part cord. One long male/female that stays attached to your sled and a short male/male that stays attached to the helmet. With this set up, much more difficult to make that ground and blow the fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Aftermarket part available from Barn of Parts to move fuse panel to where you do have access by just removing side panel. Not perfect, but better than trying to stick your hand under the hood and do by feel or by removing the hood (6 screws I believe). Done it both ways more times than I would like to admit (my sled and a buddies). Also.... What type of cord you using for your shield? If one long male/male, that may be why you blew the fuse. If while the engine is still running, you pull the connection out of your helmet and you drop it and it hits something metal, you will most likely blow the fuse. What you need is a 2 part cord. One long male/female that stays attached to your sled and a short male/male that stays attached to the helmet. With this set up, much more difficult to make that ground and blow the fuse.
the price of that kit to move the fuse box is CRAZY expensive IMO and NOT worth the costs at all

I made a simple cover for the male ended plugs, and now NEVER have to worry about one grounding anything out, I also, moved the cord power, from inline of things, to its own direct connecting (fused INLINE) to battery, with a fuse that can be easily reached next to battery!

but the way things came from the factory, if you ground out the cord, you loose ALL lights, and dash display, and only way to replace fuse is to remove the hood, THAT"S NUTS, and IMO a very stupid design!
 

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I definitely agree that it was stupid for Cat to put the fuse box in a place that can't be easily reached.... But don't blame the factory for blowing the fuse for the lights, dash, etc... It was whoever tied in your shield cord into that fuse as well as the idiot company that makes the single male/male cord. Buddy of mine's 7000 is tied into a different fuse... For him the hand warmers go out as well as a few other things. He also had the long male/male cord. Had both of you had the two cord system (a male/female that plugs into the shield cord that was installed and short male/male that is always attached to your helmet) the chance of blowing any fuse is nil.... I use the 2 cord system and never blew a fuse using it. However, when the male/female cord died I removed the short male/male cord from my helmet and I connected the backup single long male/male cord that I had. DAMN... Blew fuses twice while going around the Gaspee (my buddy blew three on the same trip). I was the lucky one that had to change the fuses on both his and my sled (my hand is smaller). All but once I was able to squeeze my hand under the hood (we removed only one screw and someone bent up the hood a little to give me room to put my hand in) and replace the fuse by feel. A bitch.... Had you, he or I had the sense to always unplug the male/male cord from the sled instead of the helmet (as another buddy of mine does), again, no chance to blow a fuse...

By the way.... When your dash goes out, your dash mileage is no longer recording. My sled is showing several hundred miles less than it should because of blowing that fuse as well as a dealer screw-up when they forgot to reconnect one of the plugs when they worked on my sled. Been told the ECU does still have the correct mileage.

Ya, the price of the aftermarket part price is a little steep, but it is much cheaper than the medical costs if you get frost bite on your hands trying to change one of the fuses.... I was able to detach the fuse panel from where it was, attach the after market bracket and re-attach the fuse panel with out much effort, (though the instructions were not that easily to understand). LOL. ... And now it is accessible for any fuse that I blow.

Also, since the battery is under the seat behind you, where did you run the cord so it was easily accessible to change the inline fuse... On my last sled I ran it the same way (but the battery was under the hood), then when I brought my sled in for service, the dealer moved it off the direct connection to the battery. It was his opinion that it was dangerous to run directly to the battery. Because of an issue I had, I can see that and will explain. If the cord is pinched and damaged between the battery and the fuse it could cause a fire. Remember, that cord is live all the time when connected to the battery, not just when the sled is running and since I assume you ran the cord under the seat, all the more chance to pinch that cord...... I had the shield cord malfunction and over heated without blowing a fuse melting both my seat and my snowmobile pants No clue how it could have overheated without blowing the fuse (cord was dealer installed). Thankfully the dealer made good and repaired the sled (including a new seat cover). Pants were old so just had a little patch sewn over the hole. I'm lucky I did not get burned nor the sled catch on fire.....
 
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