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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is on my 05 500 auto. What kind of a deal is it to change? I would guess I have to unbolt the diff and it will slide back? Is the shaft a slide shaft? I can't tell with all the rubber seals over the shaft.
 

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There is a write up on this in the pinned section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Merv. I looked up on country cat at the exploded view of everything and it looks not too bad. I just ordered a seal and new bearing just to make sure. I'll check out the pinned section for more info on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Merv I seen in the pinned section how to change the seals for the axle but mine is the pinion seal leaking. By the looks of it I will have to slide the differential back some.
 

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Lol, I'm just about to do mine as well. Must be all the sitting during the winter months. I didn't get my machine out once, but found a nice little puddle under the rear nose cone seal.

I only ordered the seal but I'll check the bearing when I have the nose cone out.

Yes you need to move back the diff to get the drive shaft out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lol, I'm just about to do mine as well. Must be all the sitting during the winter months. I didn't get my machine out once, but found a nice little puddle under the rear nose cone seal.

I only ordered the seal but I'll check the bearing when I have the nose cone out.

Yes you need to move back the diff to get the drive shaft out.
Thanks man. So the complete driveshaft and pinion housing has to come off? Just from looking at it I thought all I had to do was slide the diff back and it would pull off the drive shaft. Guess not.:wacko:
 

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Thanks man. So the complete driveshaft and pinion housing has to come off? Just from looking at it I thought all I had to do was slide the diff back and it would pull off the drive shaft. Guess not.:wacko:
This will be my first time but it appears that to get the the drive shaft off the nose cone you need to remove a snap ring and you need to remove the drive shaft to get the new seal in there. It looks like there are two snap rings to remove before you can get the seal in there, so it's probably much easier if not necessary to remove the entire shaft first..
 

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The rear diff comes out fairly easy. basically the only other thing to do is remove both axles. That seal will be much easier to change on a work bench/vise than inside the frame.
 

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The rear diff comes out fairly easy. basically the only other thing to do is remove both axles. That seal will be much easier to change on a work bench/vise than inside the frame.
Im going to leave the diff in and just take off the nose cone. Even easier. The axles will stay in. I'll just remove the two diff mount bolts so I can push diff back a bit to get out shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Im going to leave the diff in and just take off the nose cone. Even easier. The axles will stay in. I'll just remove the two diff mount bolts so I can push diff back a bit to get out shaft.
that's what I'm planning on doing. I haven't got the parts yet but I'm gunna give this a try.
 

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that's what I'm planning on doing. I haven't got the parts yet but I'm gunna give this a try.
I was just looking mine over (still psyching myself up to get into it) and it looks like it might be tricky sliding the diff back to get the clearance to remove the drive shaft, even with that one T40 Torx removed from diff cover. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I start it.

If worse comes to worse I'll just have to remove the axles I guess, but I'll giv'er a whirl first. It probably takes a little jiggling the diff around a bit before you get the room. Maybe it will be simple, but that would be too good to be true, wouldn't it? :Bangin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was just looking mine over (still psyching myself up to get into it) and it looks like it might be tricky sliding the diff back to get the clearance to remove the drive shaft, even with that one T40 Torx removed from diff cover. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I start it.

If worse comes to worse I'll just have to remove the axles I guess, but I'll giv'er a whirl first. It probably takes a little jiggling the diff around a bit before you get the room. Maybe it will be simple, but that would be too good to be true, wouldn't it? :Bangin:
I know I read that there are washers between the diff housing and the frame mount but I can't say for sure. I guess just watch and see if a washer falls out, haha. If ya would please let me know how it was to do the fix. Are you just replacing the seal or the bearing also? Mine has a bit of slop in the shaft so I think my bearing must be a little loose.
 

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I know I read that there are washers between the diff housing and the frame mount but I can't say for sure. I guess just watch and see if a washer falls out, haha. If ya would please let me know how it was to do the fix. Are you just replacing the seal or the bearing also? Mine has a bit of slop in the shaft so I think my bearing must be a little loose.
I only have the seal (no play at all in drive shaft) but I will give the bearing a once over before putting it back together.

Yes there are washers between the frame mounts and diff. No big deal, they're easy enough to see.

Edit, yes I'll report back once I get in there. The drive shaft on my machine is longer because it's a TRV. I don't see it being any different however. Maybe easier because there's a lot of room to work.
 

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I just took these.

You can see the outer washers here in the upper diff mount bolts. When you take out the bolt you can watch from this same angle. You'll need to be here anyway to do the ole reach around to undo the nuts and bolts.





There's the leaking culprit.

I'm even going to reuse the same gasket, but I'll add some blue gasket sealer like fossil did in his write up.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just took these.

You can see the outer washers here in the upper diff mount bolts. When you take out the bolt you can watch from this same angle. You'll need to be here anyway to do the ole reach around to undo the nuts and bolts.





There's the leaking culprit.

I'm even going to reuse the same gasket, but I'll add some blue gasket sealer like fossil did in his write up.

yea I was just out looking at mine. You do look like you have more room. I don't think there will be much problem getting the diff to slide back. I don't really see anything to hold it from doing so. I was thinking possibly my shake may be from just the spines on the outer hub. I wouldn't think the bearing would be bad since it runs in oil but ya never know. Wish my parts would get here so I can tear into it.
 

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You could start taking it apart.Rockerdude
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You could start taking it apart.Rockerdude
yea I was thinking about it but I kind of need it for work. We have alot of cattle moving to do since we got our ponds filled back up with water. I guess I could use my KFX for cattle running. It would stay with them with no problem.whippy
 

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Changed out the seal. Wasn't bad. Had to tap other end of drive shaft off once 4 10 mm bolts were removed. That was stopping me from getting drive shaft out until I figured out to give it a good smack. Auto part Pipe Vehicle Engine Fuel line



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The old seal was definitely in rough shape. This is after i cleaned it up. Hey 4000 kms can't complain. The bearing was still perfect.


Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Synthetic rubber





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