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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I getting the F5 ready for storage (1st time) and I was wondering where you spray the fogging oil? I took off the intake silencer tube (the one from the hood) and sprayed it down there but it looks to me like it all ran forward towards the front, not back towards the carbs. Am I doing this right? I couldn't really tell if the engine bogged down like it's supposed to.
If that was wrong, how do I now get the oil out which I picture is now pooled up in the intake? And where should I spay the oil? I thought I might pry the intake boot off one of the carbs and spray it in there, but then would I have to do both? If so, how can you when the muffler is right there?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
 

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Take the hood off of the sled. Remove the torx screw holding the airbox to the bellypan and remove the box. Now you can access the carbs properly. Might as well drain the bowls while your right there too.
Remember to add about 1oz of oil to the cylinders while turning the engine by hand also.
Going out to the garage to prep mine now, I can take some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tomcat, thanks for the quick reply. Pictures would be AWESOME :super_happy:
Any tips on draining the bowls? I don't have a clue.
 

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OK here you go. As far as draining the carb bowls, there is a 17mm head "plug" at the bottom of the carbs. Remove it to drain the gas. I use a old fender cover to lay over the edge of the belly pan so there is sonething to rest the carbs on as I remove the plugs. Then I use it to drain the fuel into. After I'm done, just hang it outside to "air out". You may want to drain the gas out of the tank also.
Going out now to prep my wife's Sabercat 500. Want pictures of the carbs?
 

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Here is some pix's of carb removal: Might as well look in the manifold at the pistons while you have the pipe off. And while you have the pipe off, might as well spray some oil in there too. (compressed air helps spread it around while you spray it in )
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the pics Clap that is awesome. Just another quick question, I've been reading up on taking the belt off and everyone is mentioning primary and secondary, and I don't have a clue what they are talking about, all I can relate to is a big one and a little one, which is which? And which one do you push on to get the belt on and off?
Thanks for all your help.
 

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Fish eye dont feel bad at all! I am felling the sameway this year, havent had a sled in about 8 year's!And even then not new, and I have an EFI now! Not so simple to fix!okay I see you use fogging oil for insides, if you are like me gonna store sledds outside under covers what can I put on the motor to keep it looking okay?????
 

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On the belt, here it is. If your sled has the Famous "green" spring, it will take a WWF member to push in the secondary (large pulley) to get enough slack to remove the belt. I like to loosen the secondary center bolt enough to insert a long pry bar to push on one of the cover hold down nuts. look at the photos:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tomcat, thank you very very much for all the info and esp the photos Not worthy: My sled does have the Green Spring and I was wondering why I could never get it to move.
So when you loosen that nut and push in with the pry bar, you then grab the belt with your other hand and roll it clockwise over the big wheel till it comes off? And then
visa versa to put it back on, is that correct?
Are you ever worried about breaking any of the bolts or anything when using the pry bar?
 

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Have to be careful when prying on the driven pulley. Only loosen the center bolt enough to insert the prybar and rotate the driven so the leverage can be applied to one of the 1/2" nuts holding on the cover. Push the prybar in about 1" so that the belt can be removed. Don't slip with the prybar, lock the brake so the pulley doesn't turn. Once the belt has been removed from the top portion of the driven pulley, release the brake and rotate the belt off of the pulley. I was going to design a "user friendly" tool for this but Diamond Drive came out and someone else has a tool for sale now.
 

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You can also drain your carbs by going through the belly pan. Remove a number of torx screws around the plastic, and with the pan off you have easy access to your carb bowls.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (fisheye4 @ Apr 2 2007, 07:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
If you use SeaFoam or Stabil do you have to worry about draining the carbs?[/b]

I use sta-bil in all of mine and don't drain anything.But then again I start them weekly
 

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87 octane pump fuel sold in Minnesota today has a "pot or shelve life" of about three months. Fuel stabilizers controls oxidation of the fuel. Remember that if the fuel is exposed to high temps as in the summer months, the "light ends" of the "gas" evaporate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey Tomcat (or anyone reading) when you take the carbs off did you disconnect any hoses from them at all?
When you retighten the bolt on the secondary, is there a specific torque?
What is the "helix"?, I've read other talking about turning the helix to open up the sheves to get the belt off
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (fisheye4 @ Apr 3 2007, 07:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hey Tomcat (or anyone reading) when you take the carbs off did you disconnect any hoses from them at all?
When you retighten the bolt on the secondary, is there a specific torque?
What is the "helix"?, I've read other talking about turning the helix to open up the sheves to get the belt off[/b]
On your secondary clutch ( its bigger in diameter, and the back of the 2 clutches) you will see a large piece sticking out, with 3 grooves cut in a twisting pattern on it....that is the helix.
It goes in, and twists...see the rollers it rides on...check those rollers for wear while doing maintence.
Inside that helix is a large spring....its what keeps it pushed out when just sitting there.

If you hear talk of helix angle...they are referring to the angle of those 3 grroves you see in the helix to....and the grooves often are not a set angle from start to finish.
They may vary, as in say a helix with a 44 / 40 angle.
 
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