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Discussion Starter #503
A while back in the thread, there's pictures of a green bike with snorkels I developed my turbo kit pieces on. I haven't really heard anything from the customer since and just got this email from him today;

"Matt,
excellent work on the diesel turbo you installed for me. (im the guy that shipped it over from wisconsin) I just now passed 10k miles on my machine. you installed it at about 6k miles. Runnin great and strong. gets up to speed much quicker and tops out around 41 mph. might even be faster since i have 27in bighorns and have not adjusted speedometer. i love my arctic cat turbo from whitbread performance. just wish everyone could share this joy.
thankyou!!!

regards, mike s. Northern wisconsin"

I only have about 1400 miles on mine since turbo'ing so I'm glad to hear someone is out riding me!
 

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You can email Matt at <whitbreadperformance.com> I talked to him a while back before I did mine. He did a few at his place. I decided to do my own, it was about 10X harder than I expected, but it was worth it. #1 suggestion, even if you don''t turbocharge it, install a pyrometer. If you can get Matt to do the install, you'd be way ahead. You might want to read my thread. If you decide to do it yourself, PM me, might be able to help a mite.
 

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I just emailed Matt. I hope he's still selling the kits. I just got a 700 and I really want one.
 

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Discussion Starter #508 (Edited)
I haven't really done squat to the Cat since any updates here, needless to say it was long overdue for some maintenance beyond oil changes LOL.

My frame has been bent in the front for at least 5 or 6 years now causing funky steering geometry above 25mph. It accidentally got squished between 2 pine trees out on the trail it didn't fit between. Ever since, I've had a saved search on ebay for arctic cat 700 diesel frames. A 2014 brand new frame popped up a few weeks ago for $600 so I grabbed it! With the new frame, I figured it was a good time to do;

Dual battery conversion
All ball joints
All cv boots/diff seals/fluid changes
Oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and plugged pcv port on intake manifold with a 1/4" npt plug
Both u joints
Brake pads
New set of maxxis bighorn knock offs in 26" vs the old 28" tires
Balanced injectors
New turbo oil and coolant lines
All new filters
All control arm bushings
Prepped for adding second rear brake caliper, just waiting on hose/fittings to get here.

Got it done today and WOW! Engine is so much smoother, the handlebars don't try to rip themselves out of your hands anymore at random going down the trail, and the bike is just overall much tighter and not sloppy feeling anymore. It was a ton of work, but it should be good to go for a long time now :).








Only difference of the 2014 frame was they changed the front gastank mount. So I cut off the new style mounts and cut the ones off my old frame. Cross tube is still exactly the same.


Balancing the injectors, forgot to snap a pic of the complete setup, hands were covered in diesel haha.


Back out in the wild!
 

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Hey Whitbread, good to see your back. I crapped out shortly after picking up the second Cat and diesel Gator. Mother Nature bitch slapped me with a heart attack in the middle of an operation and 2 strokes shortly after that. Just recently gotten back together and have been dreaming of getting back to playing with toys. #1 Cat only has 13 miles on it, and #2 Cat and Gator have mess than 1 mile on them. Anyway, your Cat is looking good.
 

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Whitbread - This is now an ancient thread, but a good read none the less... I had a local turbo shop do a genuine IHI RHB31 install on a 2015 AC 700 Diesel similar to the one in this now infamous modding post. Test drove it today and we noticed that some oil drops had sprayed out of the dipstick tube while driving it about 1/2 a mile (the dipstick wasn't fitting in there tightly and I can't remember if there were ever o-rings on it or not to hold it in tighter). In any event, the shop recommended either just putting o-rings on the dipstick or adding crankcase ventilation. My thinking on this is to go ahead with the o-rings, but to also have a breather added that just vents to the environment rather than trying to recirculate. Perhaps just drilling a hole in the valve cover and adding a short tube with a small breather filter at the end?

The turbo oil supply is through a 1.5mm restrictor (I assume this is needed given it's a journal bearing turbo) and drains back down to the pan similar to your 2007. Otherwise, there's nothing special - turbo installed in exhaust stream and compressor supplied by stock filter in normal location and routed to engine intake with aluminum tubing.

I didn't notice much of anything in the way of increased performance, but I haven't adjusted the fuel screw yet either, so I assume I already have enough air for the limited amount of fuel being provided, even at high altitude (5000'). I didn't notice a whistle, but I also have the stock exhaust on so that could be keeping it quiet. I guess the crankcase being pressurized is good confirmation that the intake is pressurized and the system is generally working, just needs more fuel to wake it up and take advantage of the increased air.

I'd really appreciate your thoughts.
 

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Whitbread - This is now an ancient thread, but a good read none the less... I had a local turbo shop do a genuine IHI RHB31 install on a 2015 AC 700 Diesel similar to the one in this now infamous modding post. Test drove it today and we noticed that some oil drops had sprayed out of the dipstick tube while driving it about 1/2 a mile (the dipstick wasn't fitting in there tightly and I can't remember if there were ever o-rings on it or not to hold it in tighter). In any event, the shop recommended either just putting o-rings on the dipstick or adding crankcase ventilation. My thinking on this is to go ahead with the o-rings, but to also have a breather added that just vents to the environment rather than trying to recirculate. Perhaps just drilling a hole in the valve cover and adding a short tube with a small breather filter at the end?

The turbo oil supply is through a 1.5mm restrictor (I assume this is needed given it's a journal bearing turbo) and drains back down to the pan similar to your 2007. Otherwise, there's nothing special - turbo installed in exhaust stream and compressor supplied by stock filter in normal location and routed to engine intake with aluminum tubing.

I didn't notice much of anything in the way of increased performance, but I haven't adjusted the fuel screw yet either, so I assume I already have enough air for the limited amount of fuel being provided, even at high altitude (5000'). I didn't notice a whistle, but I also have the stock exhaust on so that could be keeping it quiet. I guess the crankcase being pressurized is good confirmation that the intake is pressurized and the system is generally working, just needs more fuel to wake it up and take advantage of the increased air.

I'd really appreciate your thoughts.

You should have O rings on the dipstick. They may have broken with age.
 

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You certainly need the o-ring. Also you may want to put on a catch can to collect some of the crank case oil fog and let it run back into the motor. Might want to install a boost gauge and yes, gut that constipated muffler out! Couldn't believe how much stuff was in mine. Also, the exhaust will sound really cool, deep. Lastly carefully screw the locked torque screw in as far as you dare. I gooped a little blue Locktite on mine for insurance. My 2008 motor has a tag saying that max rpm is 4300, but (4x4hans) said his 2015 had a 3800 or maybe 3600 rpm speed limiter. So it may be possible to get more top speed with the governor spring for a 2008 model. Anyway, once you max out the fuel, you should see quite a difference! When 4x4hans visited me this summer we took both of my Cats on a 200 mile ride. Cruised between 35 and 50 mph. Hans' daughter drove the last 44 miles with Hans in the back seat between 45 and 50 mph, so I guess they like to run! You should see a nice puff of black smoke, if you nail it from a stop and after gutting out the muffler a really cool whistle from the turbo.
 

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Thanks. I ended up rerouting the PCV to the turbo inlet and did add 3 o-rings to the dipstick. Seems to have solved the problem and can definitely feel the increase in power with little to no turbo lag. I've heard before that the 2015 model year LDW702 engines were limited to something like 3800 rpm, but doesn't matter much to me because top speed isn't what I'm looking for since most of our trails are very rocky, narrow, and technical, so slower speeds with a lot of low end torque is where I need to be. I can hit about 45 or so on flat roads and that's enough. The issue has been that it takes forever to get up to that speed with two riders and at 9000' altitude. Not enough air up here so turning up the fuel screw up until this point has been useless, but that's about to change. =) I have to maintain the spark arrestor here legally and because of high risk of forest fire, but I may see about removing some of the restriction in the stock exhaust if I don't end up going with the Speedworx aftermarket muffler (for reference, they confirmed that all of their mufflers incorporate a spark arrestor).
 
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