[caseygoguard]

I need some help! My F7 that I set up for a radar run isn't running right. I put everything back to stock except my bullseys which I have had on there forever so I know it's not them. My problem is I hammer it off the line and it only goes to 7000RPM and when I get to 85-90 MPH it flutters and I lose speed and RPM. The fastest speed I got was 93.7 and it was just popping when I got that. THen it gradually got worse and worse and really flutters I guess.
I took it to my dealership that is usually REALLY good to me and they can't figure it out either. I asked them to check the stator as I had them change my timing key "it is back to stock for the time being" and they said they did and it tested out fine. They say it has good compression, good fuel pressure, and he also said it is nothing electrical, but what else could it be?? It had 44 psi fuel pressure by the way. If anyone has had this problem I am in need of some help. My sled has been at the dealership all week and as most of you know they aren't afraid to charge.
Thanks,
Casey

 

[bigblock2stroke]

Not exactly sure what a "flutter" is, but if everything else checks out maybe its the clutches?

 

[Captain]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (caseygoguard @ Feb 15 2007, 03:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

I need some help! My F7 that I set up for a radar run isn't running right. I put everything back to stock except my bullseys which I have had on there forever so I know it's not them. My problem is I hammer it off the line and it only goes to 7000RPM and when I get to 85-90 MPH it flutters and I lose speed and RPM. The fastest speed I got was 93.7 and it was just popping when I got that. THen it gradually got worse and worse and really flutters I guess.
I took it to my dealership that is usually REALLY good to me and they can't figure it out either. I asked them to check the stator as I had them change my timing key "it is back to stock for the time being" and they said they did and it tested out fine. They say it has good compression, good fuel pressure, and he also said it is nothing electrical, but what else could it be?? It had 44 psi fuel pressure by the way. If anyone has had this problem I am in need of some help. My sled has been at the dealership all week and as most of you know they aren't afraid to charge.
Thanks,
Casey[/b]

Sounds like power valve issues to me. Whether the servo is not functioning properly or the valves are stuck. Check to see if you have any ECU codes. My sled acted exactly like this last year. I had put the powervalve cables on incorrect thus causing an "incorrect cable length" issue. It would run fine at first, but when I punched it and the valves were supposed to function, it would bog and "flutter" and backfire and all kinds of craziness. I took it to the dealer and they figured it out.
If you have done any work to your power valves check to make sure you have the cable ends in the correct spot.

 

[caseygoguard]

Thanks for the info. guys!!! I will call my dealer since the sled is there and have them see if they are in the right spot or not. I hope that is it or I am going to go nuts.

 

[caseygoguard]

Thanks for the info. guys!!! I will call my dealer since the sled is there and have them see if they are in the right spot or not. I did clean them and a cable came off in the servo but i'm sure that it got put back in the right spot.

 

[caseygoguard]

My dealer said they are good to go! I think they are getting mad at me asking if this is alright and if this is and oh well i'm the customer right?
Any more ideas????????

 

[caseygoguard]

I read a forum saying that you can damage the stator when changing a timing key? That is the reason I had my dealer change it, is there any truth to this if so what are the odds. Do you think that the dealership mechanic could damage it? The mechanic called me today and is like I have tested everything "taking new parts off a new sled and putting them on" The last thing is the stator "which I wanted tested right away" and the stator is different and VERY exspensive. So he asked me what I wanted to do like I should have to pay for the stator to test it????????????? I am pissed off about this, that is why I hired a professional, and also he said he has like 18 hrs. testing and swapping. I sure hope they aren't expecting me to pay that much. It would be cheaper to let it sit and look pretty.
HELP ME PLEASE!!!

 

[caseygoguard]

well my dealer has no parts and obviously they won't stand behind there work. "I'm assuming that the mechanic did something because it ran great and now not worth a crap" So I found a used stator and I will get it on tomorrow so I hope that cures it. The mechanic said he has put everything else that he can think of new on it so I hope he's f'n right.

 

[caseygoguard]

Don't know if anyone cares or not but it wasn't the stator. The mechanic changed the stator and it still did the same thing. I did however take my power valves out again and cleaned them really good and I ran it and it would hit "WITH THE BELT OFF" like 8800 RPM and I let off the first couple times worried about the clutch. Then I held it once and it held there for 10 secs and then I had to let off a little and then it would go to the bogging/fluttering thing.

 

[HeavyHitter]

Looking for trouble when running engine with no belt....over rev plus damage to clutch when they slam together in very bottom of shives.......

 

[HeavyHitter]

Have you ran the sled on the snow since putting everything back to stock? What RPM are you pulling now? Any add-ons left on there now?

 

[caseygoguard]

I let the clutch engage very slow and then I hammer on it. I cleaned and adjusted my powervalves really really good last night and I way over rev'd so I let off the throttle a little and then it went into it flutter/gurgle mode at 7000 RPMs again.
If I let my clutch engage slowly I shouldn't damage anything should I? I was just looking for the quick way to check it I guess. Thanks for the tips, I do watch my RPMs pretty close.
The only add ons left are the bullseyes "that I have had on since like new" and my D&D Y pipe, "It did the same thing with the stock y pipe as well.
Any advice?

 

[azracing]

Check to see if there's and mouse nest in the muffler or the inners in the muffler have come loose. you may want to look at the intake side too for a nest.


Aaron

 

[mrdestiny56]

:super_happy: :super_happy: I just worked on my little brother's 500 RMK (ugh) and he had the same fluttering sound around mid range.
After I had pulled the carbs off, I pulled the reed valves out to check for anything wrong there.
First I found the petals not sealing to the cage, and I also found a screw that mounts the reeds to the cage missing. When I went to replace the screw, I found the hole to be stripped out.
I replaced the cage and the reeds, cleaned the carbs, and re-assembled it.
Sadly to say, the flutter was gone, and that little thing screamed.
I guess I found the problem.

 

[f7snowman]

Tell dealer to check smart valves in fuel tank. If you have water in the tank, the smart valves will close ,limiting fuel. This happened to my f7 causing the same problem. I drained the tank, changed the smart valves, no more problem.