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as a rider of a zr and not a wrenchhead i need help. i rode my brothers 06 f-7 efi,great power i will say but leaves a little to be desired in the handling dept. had to take the first corner with my fingers crossed that i would make it, was not going fast or out of control. was wondering if there was any easy way to get these things to turn a little better. seems a little tippy to me. am not totally ignorant so i can do some things. something needs to change before he gets killed trying to keep up with us. any help would be greatly appreciated. btw he weighs 180,sled is picked and has the simmons flex skis. again thanks. this is his second yr riding
 

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The only thing you have to do different on a firecat than on the ZR is move. You could ride upright all day in the corners on the ZR but on the F cat you need to use your body english. Once you get use to moving from side to side on the seat, people will have to worry about keeping up with you.
 

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What exactly is the sled doing that needs to be changed? Pushing in the corners? Just a little tippy? Both?

Is the track studded? Is it a standard or a sno pro suspension?

Here's some things to start with...

With the track off the ground, loosen the spring preload on the shock in the front of the rear suspension until the spring just starts to rattle, then tighten one turn.

Turn the coupling blocks (on inside of each slide rail in the back) so that the IIII faces towards the front of the sled. I = less coupling/more ski lift in the corners. IIII = more coupling, less ski lift.

Some Firecats (depending on year and suspension) had adjustable limiter straps. You have to take the bolt out of the top of the strap to see if there are additional holes. If there are, it's probably in the middle hole from the factory. Move the bolt to the hole towards the front to tighten each strap. If you don't have extra holes, you can drill new ones about 1/2 to 3/4" towards the front of the sled.

Next time he/you rides, you can now tune how much the pressure is put on the skis by changing the preload on the ski springs. Tightening the springs = more preload = more ski pressure = better turning = a little harder to steer.

Also check the ski alignment - it's critical. MUST be toed out about 1/4" at the front carbide runner bolt. NEVER toed in.
 

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Both of these guys pretty much hit the nail on the head. With the 13.5" track the Firecats inherently feel more nimble, or in your case coming from a ZR, "tippy." So the rider definitely should use a lot of body english to get the sled to do what you want. Think of it more like an extension of you rather than just something you're riding. You'll get used to the feeling eventually. Beyond that, you can tighten the limiter strap on the front arm for more ski pressure, adjust the rear scissor arm coupling block to reduce ski lift, and loosen the springs on the shocks if they are not already adjusted for your weight.
 

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What are all your settings now,,,,, front ski springs or air pressure, limiter, rear torsion spring, front skid shock spring

need insches of threads or mm's showing on your shocks below spring adjuster ring.

have you adjusted your limiter and by how much.

are you running SP or standard.

Springs on front shocks or are they air shocks
 

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power 23 is correct, riding style is important. Ive spent many hours on all the arctic cat chassis, and you will make some improvements to the f handeling, but will never reach the zr mark. people do not realize the f chassis was developed during the snowcross hype and is a big bump sled not a trail carver. not to take any thing away from that sled, if the trails/turns are rough there is no other sled to be on. the new twin spar is a attempt to return to good handleing but did you notice the weight specs of this new chassis? there is a penalty to pay for light weight and very long travel. you just have to enjoy the firecat for its best traits, and slow down in the turns LoL!!!!!
 
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